The return of On|Off at LFW

London Fashion Week was really put back on the map this season with the influx of emerging talent hitting the scene and that in part was due to the successful return of On|Off, the non-profit showcase founded by Lee Lapthorne, to the LFW schedule.

The emerging design talent organisation has been responsible for nurturing many big names on the London fashion scene including Gareth Pugh, JW Anderson, Roksanda, Louise Gray and Peter Pilotto, and over the summer Lapthorne launched a crowdfunding campaign to “continue to support the next generation of designers”.

The organisation raised 25,000 pounds via indiegogo.com and hosted a four-day schedule of catwalk shows and presentation from the hottest emerging talent to hit London including Clio Peppiatt who wowed with her futuristic Barbie doll models wearing prints featuring ray guns and stars, Moon J, a talented Korean-born, London-based designer who utilises colour and textiles in her collections and Kuala Lumpur-based Yii, who was inspired by the adventurousness of youth with boxy silhouettes, collaging graphic inserts, and textured knitwear.

Over the course of the four days, On|Off showcased 12 designers, five presentations and seven catwalk shows, and had a number of high-profile editors and buyers come into see the collections, including Sara Maino of Italian Vogue, Suzy Lau of Style Bubble, the BFC’s Sarah Mower, Gianluca Longo from W Magazine, Jefferson Hack from Dazed, Tim Blanks, as well as buyers from Selfridges, Browns, and Liberty.

On|Off successful returns to LFW schedule

So why does On|Off attract the best new designers? Lapthorne suggests it's because his organisation doesn’t just showcase them but also “nurtures and consults” them, he added: “We offer a holistic package to new emerging designers and after many seasons we understand their needs. We have never compromised on quality and we have a track record for discovering talent.”

Director of AntWaller & Co, Anthony Waller, who had a number of designers showing at On|Off this season said: “It was exciting to see On|Off return to London Fashion Week. Once again not only do we have a reputable platform that can promote tomorrows talent but one that has a proven track record.

“The selection of brands this season was perfect and it will be very exciting to see how On|Off grows in February. Maybe we could convince Lee to move into men’s fashion week as well!”

Looking to the future of the event is also something that Lapthorne is thinking about: “We have already started our plans and evaluated our September’s event. We will build on our successes and strengthen those elements that need developing. We have secured the venue for the future too.”

But Lapthorne also pointed out there is a burning question surrounding fashion week - who are these shows really for?, “I observed front row buyers at LFW main shows watching amazing shows - looking poker-faced and staring at the floor to only glance at passing models. Who are these shows really for? Who is interested? Buyers? Press? Consumers? I have ideas and I'm bubbling with the future of showcasing - but it’s something that needs to be discussed.”

On|Off launched for spring/summer 2003 with four catwalk shows and six exhibition designers, for autumn/winter 2006 Gareth Pugh held his first catwalk show, and in spring/summer 2006 the platform was the first to podcast all catwalk shows to its website and on iTunes. Other highlights include the debut of Peter Pilotto in spring/summer 2007, the return of Pam Hogg to LFW for autumn/winter 2009, and for spring/summer 2012 the organisation was awarded CoolBrands status, marking the first time a fashion event had been given the accolade.

Images: On|Off SS16