The sizeable gap in men's fashion week diversity

As the men's fashion weeks in Florence, Milan, and Paris conclude, a glaring absence on the catwalks has become apparent: the near-total absence of mid-size and XL male models. This oversight not only calls into question the industry's commitment to diversity but also underscores a significant disconnect between fashion's aspirational imagery and the realities of its consumer base.

Vogue Business, a Condé Nast publication, conducted an analysis of 65 shows during the Spring/Summer 2025 menswear presentations. Out of 3,099 looks across Milan and Paris, a staggering 98.5 per cent were straight-size (under EU 48), a slight increase from 98.3 per cent last season. Mid-size models (EU 48-54) accounted for a mere 1.3 per cent, down from 1.5 per cent, whilst plus-size representation (EU 56+ or over XL) remained static at 0.2 per cent.

This homogeneity stands in stark contrast to global health trends. The World Health Organization reports that worldwide adult obesity has more than doubled since 1990, with 43 per cent of adults aged 18 years and over classified as overweight in 2022.

The implications of this lack of representation are far-reaching, potentially perpetuating unrealistic body standards and missing opportunities to connect with significant market segments. It also contradicts the industry's purported embrace of diversity in other areas, such as racial and ethnic representation.

Signs of change

Whilst some emerging designers and niche brands are beginning to adopt a more inclusive approach, real change will require leadership from the industry's major players. The runway, long a platform for pushing boundaries, must now extend its spirit of innovation to celebrating the diversity of the male form in all its variations.

As the fashion industry grapples with evolving societal attitudes and increasing consumer demand for representation, its resistance to change in this area becomes increasingly untenable. The path forward will require concerted efforts from designers, casting directors, fashion media, and consumers alike to redefine beauty standards and showcase a broader range of body types in menswear.