As the fashion telescope swivels its focus from London to Florence, where menswear trade fair Pitti Uomo kicks off, FashionUnited takes a minute to reflect on the shows and presentations held at the new show space, Victoria House, in order to gauge what are some of the strongest themes men can expect to be faced with come autumn/winter.
Boxy and Oversized Outerwear
As the collections being presented where designed for cooler seasons, outerwear was a predominant factor in many of the ranges. However, boxy, oversized outerwear in an array of thick materials such as wool, shearling and (faux) fur stood out from among the crowds. Stuart Vevers, creative director at Coach, is said to have transformed the struggling fashion house by making its leather and shearling products a "hot commodity" and his ready-to-wear AW16 for men is no expection. The stand out items from collection included over-sized furry jackets, heavy shearling jackets and puffy 1990s inspired parkas. Other designers to showcase big furry coats were Baartmans and Siegel, who showed their jacket on a female model, Katie Eary, who went for a black on black look and Casely-Hayford, who showed an ankle-length quilted parka. James Long and Christopher Raeburn favoured shorted, boxy fitting jackets, complete with furry collar.
Wide legged trousers
The reign of the slim or skinny legged pants first began within the womenswear spectrum but was quickly picked up within the menswear scoop. As women tentatively embrace the return of the flare, menswear also witnesses the comeback of the wide legged trousers, with an number of designers favouring high waisted trousers for spring/summer 2016. Autumn/Winter 2016 cements the return of the wide-leg pant with high street retailer Topman presenting high waisted wide legged grey trousers, with a matching jacket, while designer Craig Green favoured lower cut wide legged trousers, with the cuffs rolled up at the end. Design duo Agi & Sam showed high waisted 70s inspired trousers in warmer hues and Jonathan Anderson, the man behind J.W. Anderson paired shiny, baggy trousers which almost dragged on the floor with a long, furry vest with a contrasting collar.
Floral trompe l’oeil mania
Flowers received a make-under this season, as designers combined the usually brightly coloured motifs with darker tones to give floral a bit of an edge. Tiger of Sweden gave its leather biker jackets a hint of softness by painting on realistic looking wild flowers, whilst the ever inventive Jeremy Scott, known for his penchant for kitsch sprayed daisies in a wide variety of neon shares onto puffa jackets, jeans and backpacks. Creative director at Alexander McQueen, Sarah Burton, took a more understated approach to the theme by printing muted floral onto traditional trench coats and smoking blazers.
Photo Credit: Catwalking.com