Under Armour needs fashion credibility to become true sporting giant

Having street cred is an intangible measurement for a brand to know it has arrived. In the age of Instagram, it is imperative to be on the aspirational list of what the 'kids' want to wear. At fashion week, for example, the parading peacocks and front row fashion darlings are decked in glorious luxury brands, but their choice of footwear? Adidas Stan Smith, Super Stars, or Nike Air Max. It would be hard to spot a fashion persona donned in Under Armour.

Why? Because Under Armour isn't cool. According to Bloomberg the company is injecting greater emphasis on its fashion offer to reverse this. Trainers and gear that can be worn outside of performance and sporting activities. “We need to become more fashion,” stated Kevin Plank, the company’s chief executive officer. “The consumer wants it all. They want product that looks great, that wears great, that you can wear at night with a pair of jeans, but that also does perform for them.”

Challenging silhouettes not in demand

Under Armour reported disappointing earnings on Tuesday, with its sales forecast falling well short of analyst estimates, noted Bloomberg. The company said “higher demand for lifestyle silhouettes caused us to be out of balance with our assortment.”

A major part of the company’s push into lifestyle has been its shoe business, spearheaded by basketball superstar Stephen Curry’s kicks. Under Armour is counting on its sneaker-selling frontman to help it carve out a bigger role for itself in pop culture and become a staple of casual style.

From a fashion perspective, Under Armour lacks in design that would tempt an athleisure customer, who may wear trainers under a tailored trouser or jean, though not the clunky sort. If we analyse the silhouettes, Under Armour's sneaker portfolio lacks in luxe the way Nike and Adidas have managed to build their fashion prowess. Neither chic or expensive, many of Under Armour's collection feature undesirable under-soles that are overly detailed. Then a mid sole with odd architecture and fussy colour ways. There isn't a retro pair of trainers in sight, the way a 70s tennis sneaker might crossover from court to catwalk. The Curry 3, as pictured, has by fashion standards no aesthetic appeal.

Common Projects own the minimalist sneaker market and All Stars, Nike, Adidas and Puma all have credible communities with products that easily blend into their customer's lifestyle, on and off the court. Even Fila has returned from fashion's morgue after a collaboration with Gosha Rubchinskiy, a collection that has been consistently sold out at directional retailers like Dover Street Market.

Last September Under Armour launched UAS, a more fashion-led collection designed by New York-based Tim Coppens to appeal to a lifestyle customer. It remains to be seen if this will win over the fashion demographic.

Photo credit: Under Armour Curry 3, source: Under Armour Facebook page