Valentino showcases a punk spirit for AW21

Valentino reopened Milan’s Piccolo Teatro to showcase its autumn/winter 2012 collection as a nod to how culture makes up the identity of the fashion house.

Pierpaolo Piccioli, Valentino creative director, said in the show notes for Valentino Act: “Reopening a theatre, even though only for the span of a show, is a bold, almost punk gesture: an invitation to aggregation and sharing when these activities are denied.

“Inside Piccolo Teatro di Milano, a place that for Milan is symbolic of a conscious and progressive way of making culture, the identity of Valentino today materialises with a clear and incisive sign: both sensual and romantic, nourished by memories but not nostalgic. An identity that reflects in a new generation.”

That punk spirit was seen throughout the collection, with a limited colour palette of black, white, and fluorescent acrylics, alongside optical touches of checks, animal prints and polka dots, as well as on the footwear, where studs multiply on the toe of nude pumps.

The clothing was sharp and concise, with a radical new shorter silhouette, with super short dresses and pleated shirts offering new proportions alongside Piccioli signature floor-length gowns, with a standout look being a black gown in single panels held together by ribbons.

It wasn’t just the women who have had their looks slashed shorter, men’s trousers were also cut neatly above the ankle.

“The blade acts without any hesitation: with inexorable urgency, it brings the pleated skirt to new proportions, transforms peacoats and jackets into capes, and reduces evening dresses to flying panels held together by ribbons,” added the fashion house.

There was also an added sensuality to the collection, with Piccioli inspired by the idea of showing the body by uncovering or veiling parts of it, by using overlapping nets and lace.

The collection was unveiled via livestream and saw the models walking across the theatre stage and down the aisles while London-based singer Cosima sang alongside the Orchestra Sinfonica di Milano Giuseppe Verdi.

Images: courtesy of Valentino