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Vetements collaborates with 18 designers for SS17

By Vivian Hendriksz


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Streetwear label Vetements, best known for its cult DHL t-shirts and oversized hoodies, is taking the concept of collaboration to a whole new level. The Parisian 'design collective' has caused another ripple within the industry by teaming up with not one, not two, but 18 different fashion brands for its spring/summer 2017 collection.

Set to be shown in Galeries Lafayette, in Paris next Sunday, the collection will incorporate designs from 18 establish labels including the likes of Levi's, Dr. Martens, Reebok as well as Manolo Blahnik, Mackintosh and Comme des Garçons. Each brand has been asked to create a Vetements inspired spin on items which have become signature to the brand itself, which together form the entire collection. So think evening gowns made from hot pink velour from Juicy Couture, deconstructed silhouettes from Manolo Blahnik and wrinkly, oversized suit jackets from Brioni.

The collaborative design idea sits well in line with the brand, which is the brain child of a group of semi-unknown designers led by Georgian designer Demna Gvasalia. According to the designer, the idea for the collaborating with multiple brands at the same time stemmed from his experience of manufacturing Vetements jeans in factories in Italy, as Gvasalia felt they never looked "100 percent authentic." When the brand decided to bump the show date up from September to July, Gvasalia thought it would be simpler to handle the shorter production time if they enlisted several collaborators.

"The idea was always to take the iconic, the most recognizable product from their brand, and put it into a Vetements frame, whether in terms of shape or construction," said Gvasalia in an interview with the Cut. Vetements supplied all the designs, using the authentic fabrics from each brands and their factories oversaw the production. However, although Vetements is working with such a large number of collaborators, they were decided to keep Vetements iconic shapes and silhouettes for the collection.

“For me, it’s a kind of season which is the end of one chapter for the brand and the beginning of another,” added Gvasalia, who hopes that Vetements will be able to continue its design relationships with a number of the brands after the show.

Photo: Vetements, AW16
Dr Martens
Galeries Lafayette
Juicy Couture
Manolo Blahnik