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Virginie Viard presents Chanel's Haute Couture collection surrounded by her collective

By Julia Garel

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Experimental and collective. Designed by Virginie Viard, Chanel's haute couture collection unveiled on Tuesday was presented in a show in which the "collective" around her participated: Xavier Veilhan, Sébastien Tellier, Charlotte Casiraghi, Pharrell Williams and Vivienne Rohner.

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As Friends of the fashion house, this group of personalities made its contribution to the Fall/Winter 2023 presentation. Previously credited in the AW22 couture show, the contemporary French artist Xavier Veilhan once again imagined the decor for the catwalk, as well as a film also revealed on Tuesday and featuring Charlotte Casiraghi, musician Sébastien Tellier and model Vivienne Rohner. As for singer-songwriter, Pharrell Williams, he appears in the video that kicks off the parade.

To grasp the theme of the Fall/Winter 2023 collection and its 44 silhouettes, it is necessary to refer to the SS22 haute couture show because, as Virginie Viard indicates in a press release, the show is "in continuity with the previous show, while leaving room for experimentation".

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Viard goes back to references of constructivism, with a very graphic decor and geometric shapes. And as always, nods here and there to the history of the house and to Gabrielle Chanel: "long dresses as Mademoiselle Chanel designed them in the 1930s, close to the body, even if they are supported here", we read in the notes of the show. The graphic design of the set is also found on the silhouettes, through round shoulders, square backs and embroidery with geometric patterns.

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Almost everywhere, tweed, the brand's flagship material. But Virginie Viard assures that "the clothes remain light, feminine, designed to be worn" because, she says, "I can't see myself doing otherwise".

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In the way of accessories: in addition to salomés, there are cowboy boots to give a twist to long skirts, as well as necklaces from the “1932” Haute Joaillerie anniversary collection.

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This article was originally published on FashionUnited.FR, translated and edited to English by Kelly Press.

Chanel
FW23
Paris Couture Week
Virginie Viard