What to look out for at London Fashion Week Men’s
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New year equals a new fashion buying season and first up is the autumn/winter 2017 edition of London Fashion Week Men’s, which starts on Friday, January 6 until January 9.
Last season there were more than 30 catwalk shows, 25 presentations and 55 designers in the official Designer showrooms, and this January will see the launch of the rebranded event, the continuing transition to new co-ed and seasonless collections, the return of old favourites, as well as an influx of new talent.
New Name
The most significant change this season has to be the name, the bi-annual event is no longer called London Collections: Men but rather London Fashion Week Men’s to bring it in line with the British Fashion Council’s other events, the women’s London Fashion Week and its consumer fashion event London Fashion Weekend.
The new name the British Fashion Council said is to reflect the “evolution of the event” from a two-day showcase to a four-day one, as well as to help it better reflect its growing consumer focus, adding that London Collections: Men was more of an industry-facing name.
At the time of the announcement, London Fashion Week Men’s chairman and editor of British GQ, Dylan Jones said: “London continues to confirm its place as the home of menswear, a hub of creativity showing the very best designers to a global audience. The menswear market showing in London incorporates not only internationally acclaimed brands but also luxury tailoring and emerging talent. This array of designers makes London one of the most exciting fashion cities in the world.
“As fashion weeks change and our businesses start showing to consumers, we need to open our doors to more consumer-facing content.”
The return of Vivienne Westwood
British fashion designer Vivienne Westwood is returning her menswear to London with a catwalk presentation to showcase her autumn/winter 2017 ready-to-wear womenswear and menswear collections under one, unified label on January 9.
The designer’s Red Label womenswear line and her menswear line, formerly known as Man, which used to show in Milan, will now make up the mainline women’s and men’s offering under the Vivienne Westwood umbrella. The move came as part of the brand’s wider strategy to streamline its labels and collections.
“Reduce our company in size. And reduce it to its essentials. Selling only what we love. Our whole structure will be directed by quality. Buy less, choose well, make it last. Together Andreas and I head the design teams for all lines,” explained Vivienne Westwood.
Co-ed and See-Now-Buy-Now
Vivienne Westwood isn’t the only label uniting men’s and womenswear together, the growing trend to showcase a combination of both collections will be seen at: Nigel Cabourn (January 6); Katie Eary, Astrid Andersen, Agi and Sam x The Woolmark Company, Casely-Hayford and YMC (January 7); Christopher Raeburn, Maharishi (January 8); and Belstaff, John Smedley (January 9).
In addition, some brands are also embracing the See-Now-Buy-Now model including: Barbour (January 6); What We Wear, Edward Crutchley, and Agi and Sam’s collaboration with The Woolmark Company (January 7); Maharishi and Chester Barrie (January 8); and John Smedley (January 9).
MAN and Fashion East under one roof
London’s talent platforms Fashion East and Topman’s MAN Fashion East and Topman’s MAN will showcase their catwalk presentations for the first time under one roof at the Topman Showspace at the Old Selfridges Hotel.
Topman MAN will take place on January 6 showcasing a full catwalk collection for the first time from Per Götesson, alongside Charles Jeffrey Loverboy, Feng Chen Wang. While Fashion East, the non-profit initiative founded by Lulu Kennedy, will be presenting James Buck and Luke Brooks’ Rottingdean Bazaar for the second time following their debut in June, alongside newcomers Art School, another creative duo, comprising Eden Loweth and Tom Barratt for their debut within the group showcase on January 7.
Celebrity faces
Fashion week always brings out a few celebrities, but this season there will be a few showcasing collections including Will.i.am’s luxury trainer brand MCCVIII in collaboration with his brother Carl Gilliam, who will be hosting a presentation on January 7. The brand is currently stocked in Harrods and Harvey Nichols and features three silhouettes the Pharaoh High Gold Plated, the Pharaoh High and the Pharaoh Low.
While the biggest draw is likely to be Tinie Tempah’s debut catwalk show for his label Disturbing London, known as DSTRB LDN. No details of what to expect have been announced, just that it has been inspired by Victoria’s Secret’s extravaganzas.
“I just want to take some of the influence of things I’ve seen not only in Italy but when I’ve gone to Victoria’s Secret shows, just incorporating everything into one exciting show,” Tempah told the Evening Standard. “It will be very fun.”
In addition, Kent and Curwen designed by Daniel Kearns and part-owned by David Beckham, will debut its new-look with a catwalk show on January 7.
Emerging talent to watch
As you would expect from a fashion week in London there’s a lot of emerging talent to keep an eye on, including Phoebe English who will be showcasing her second menswear collection on January 6 at the British Fashion Council presentation space. There will also be collections from Edward Crutchley, who has impressed with his contemporary menswear offering (January 7), while LVMH Prize winner Grace Wales-Bonner will showcase on January 9 and Craig Green, winner of the third BFC/GQ Designer Menswear Fund will show in the Topman Show Space on January 6.
London Fashion Week Men’s will take place from January 6-9 at The Store Studios, 180 Strand, London.
Image: courtesy of the British Fashion Council