What to look out for in shops for winter 2023

FashionUnited has surveyed trend sites, fashion retailers and catwalk shows to give you an overview of the key trends for the autumn/winter 2023/24 womenswear season. A ‘best of’ for retailers and e-tailers in need of inspiration, for restocking, or to bring your windows up to date.

The suit jacket

The classic suit jacket, with its pronounced edges, is a key piece for autumn/winter. The look is based on the items offered by retailer Frankie Shop: conquering and simple, plain or checked. Note the return of the double-breasted jacket (seen, for example, at Australian brand Zimmermann).

Balletcore: the ballerina revisited

The ballerina, or ballerina-style shoe, is back with a vengeance this winter. Its revival is part of the Balletcore trend (promoted by houses such as Simone Rocha, Miu Miu and Molly Goddard), which consists of reusing elements of the dancing profession, namely dresses, leotards and ballerinas. The shoe can be raised a few centimetres, laid flat on a thin rubber sole, embellished with origami ornaments, or revived with a pointed toe.

As reported on the Vogue France website on 12 July, the ultra-fashionable models offered by Alaïa are consistently out of stock. The French label is offering a version inspired by traditional Japanese footwear, in rhinestone, metallic, fishnet or suede. Another trend-setter is that of the Mary Jane ballerina, which is finished with a strap.

The long ‘Quiet Luxury’ coat

The Quiet Luxury trend is at the heart of the AW23/24 aesthetic, referencing understated pieces with an elegant, chic discretion that eschews ostentation. One of the highlights of this trend is the men's coat, with its slightly dropped shoulders (some of which are reminiscent of Kim Basinger's coat in the film 9½ Weeks). Its long, straight silhouette comes in both soft beige and classic grey, black and navy blue (seen at Bottega Veneta, Jil Sander and Miu Miu in particular). A reassuring, enveloping piece that plays the minimalism card without being boring.

Other key Quiet Luxury pieces include oversized knit jumpers, long monochrome straight skirts, and all the basic staples (t-shirts, shirts, straight trousers, etc.).

The suit

Most retailers agree on one point: tailoring is a must this winter. We're thinking in particular of the 80’s skirt suits proposed by Saint Laurent at its AW23/24 show last March: a powerful look with a strong feminine allure. Whether it's a skirt suit or a trouser suit, the choice is between monochrome or striped, from luxury labels like Bottega Veneta to mass-market brands like Benetton and Cos.

Sets

From tracksuits to loungewear ensembles, coordinated two-pieces have become trendy thanks to their almost effortless stylistic contribution. First there were the jogging outfits, which became popular during the pandemic and whose cocoon effect is still in vogue, but sights are now set on outfits that are a little dressier, to be worn at home or at the office. These include knitwear from Lovechild, with its enveloping charm.

Everyday glitter

There's no need to wait for the festive season to wear sparkles. Jackets with metallic effects, sequined dresses and lurex tops are making their way into everyday wardrobes to liven up a conservative look and add a twist to the basic Quiet Luxury trend.

Red

Red is a major trend for AW23/24. This powerful colour lends a confident silhouette and a femme fatale effect to dresses. It was fluid and satiny at Ann Demeulemeester, in leather at Isabel Marant, quilted at Patou, pleated and with a high collar at AZ Factory, or in a Y2K iteration at Courrèges.

Oversized

In general, the silhouette for AW23/24 will be oversized. Comfortable fabrics are used to support the wrap-around volumes to swathe the wearer. But this doesn't mean that feminine curves have been erased: the fullness of a hoodie (popularised, among other things, by the series And Just Like That) will be accompanied by leggings or simple opaque tights, while a large man's coat will cover a figure sporting a mini-skirt or transparent dress.

Barbiecore

It's hard not to mention the Barbiecore trend and its powerful pink with feminist connotations. Propelled by the blockbuster film Barbie, the shade now conveys the message of empowerment, as intended by director Greta Gerwig. Begun in 2022, the look is set to continue into this winter with a range of pinks more or less similar to the shade worn by the Mattel doll.

The buttoned waistcoat

Borrowed from both the three-piece suit and the waiter's silhouette, the sleeveless waistcoat is a recurring piece in the AW23/24 lookbooks. Worn over a long-sleeved t-shirt, a jumper, a shirt or with nothing underneath, it's a slightly oversized, masculine-feminine choice.