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Ronald van der Kemp: The career trajectory of the first sustainable couture designer

By FashionUnited

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Designer Ronald van der Kemp takes a bow after the presentation of his FW23 couture collection. Image via press agency Lucien Pages.

Ronald van der Kemp is a prominent Dutch fashion designer with over 25 years of experience in the luxury fashion industry. Van der Kemp is presenting his couture label RVDK’s SS24 collection at Paris Haute Couture Week this evening.

This article provides an overview of Van der Kemp's career trajectory, from his studies in fashion design in Amsterdam to the founding of the world’s first sustainable couture label, RVDK Ronald van der Kemp and his unmistakable presence in the Parisian haute couture scene.

Van der Kemp graduated from the Gerrit Rietveld Academy of Art and Design in Amsterdam in 1989 with a bachelor degree in fashion design. Post-graduation, van der Kemp's career journey took him across major fashion hubs like New York, Paris, Milan, and Munich, where he worked in various capacities within the luxury fashion sector.

Throughout his career, van der Kemp has been affiliated with several established couture and luxury retail brands. He has worked for Bill Blass, as a creative director at Guy Laroche, and as illustrator of the Barneys New York home collection. He has also been involved with French fashion houses like LVMH/Celine and Guy Laroche.

His experience spans across global brands such as Escada and Wolford, as well as smaller high-end luxury companies like Agnona, Giuliana Teso, and Herno. In addition to these roles, van der Kemp managed his own label.

His responsibilities in these positions were diverse and comprehensive. Van der Kemp directed both large and small design teams and worked closely with licensee partners, both in-house and overseas. He collaborated directly with artisans and 'les-petits-mains' – the talented craftspeople capable of creating haute couture. His expertise in dressing celebrities and royalty for red carpet events and other high-profile occasions is appreciated across the world.

Van der Kemp's skill set is extensive and includes managing design teams through concept development, research, and design execution. He has contributed to store design, visual merchandising, and in-store presentations. His creative direction extended to styling and editing for campaigns and fashion shows. He has also been involved in marketing projects, including the creation of catalogues, campaigns, look books, and online presence, as well as managing social media, runway presentations, and trunk shows.

Sustainable couture designer Ronald van der Kemp at Paris Couture Week SS24

His design expertise covers a broad range of fashion categories, including couture, ready-to-wear, cocktail/evening wear, tailoring, flou, and specialty areas like beading/embroidery, double-face, leather and suede, fur, knitwear, jersey, and accessories. Additionally, van der Kemp has experience with licensees in various product categories such as bags, shoes, belts, glasses, lingerie, shapewear, legwear, and swimwear.

In 2014 after 25 years of working for big fashion houses, the designer launched his own demi-couture label, RVDK Ronald van der Kemp. The label is notable for its ethical approach, focusing on limited-edition, seasonless, and timeless items made with existing fabrics and crafted by hand in small ateliers in Amsterdam.

Van der Kemp had previously owned his own label, from 2000 to 2003, which was sold at department stores Barneys in New York and Browns in London. His designs have been worn by a range of celebrities and have made a significant impact in the fashion industry.

After launching his demi-couture label, van der Kemp presented his RVDK debut collection to a small group of journalists at Paris Haute Couture Week in January 2015. RDVK's seasonless, extravagant creations were an instant hit. Some pieces were immediately lent to French Vogue, among others. Kate Moss also borrowed RVDK creations for a shoot in W magazine.

In 2016, luxury webshop Net-a-Porter started selling RVDK. In February 2017, The Netherlands’ Culture Fund awarded van der Kemp its Fashion Stipend incentive prize, which the designer at the time said symbolised the recognition of his skills and talent by his home country of The Netherlands after successfully conquering the international fashion scene.

In February 2017, The Netherlands’ Culture Fund awarded van der Kemp its Fashion Stipend incentive prize, which symbolises the recognition of his skills and talent in his home country of The Netherlands after conquering the international fashion scene.

The couture designer’s unique approach to fashion, emphasising sustainability and ethical practices, has set him apart in the industry. He is committed to creating glamorous outfits by repurposing materials, vintage couture fabrics, leftover stock, and offcuts, combining them with his creative flair to create unique outfits that make a statement​​​​​​.

This article has been partially generated using an AI tool, and then edited by Veerle Versteeg.

Fashion Education
Haute Couture
Paris Haute Couture Week
Ronald van der Kemp
Sustainable Fashion