Ann Demeulemeester expands its retail network with new Paris store

Following its Milan opening in February 2026, the brand Ann Demeulemeester is opening a boutique at the Palais-Royal in Paris. It will continue its international expansion in 2027.

Founded in Antwerp in 1985 by designer Ann Demeulemeester, a member of the Antwerp Six, the house defined its era with a dark coloured wardrobe, blending romantic ideals with a grunge aesthetic.

In the mid-90s, Belgian entrepreneur Anne Chapelle of BVBA 32 took over the company's management. She established it as a leading brand on the international fashion scene.

In 2013, Ann Demeulemeester announced her departure and chose Sébastien Meunier as her successor. The company continued under the leadership of Chapelle.

In 2020, Claudio Antonioli, owner of the eponymous Milanese multi-brand store, acquired the house and the rights to the name. Ludovic de Saint Sernin had a brief tenure as artistic director in 2022. Stefano Gallici has been designing the collections since 2023.

Different retail strategy for Europe and the rest of the world

Following the acquisition, Claudio Antonioli explained his intention to reduce wholesale and expand the direct-to-consumer (D2C) channel. He told BoF magazine his goal was for 40 percent of sales to be D2C, with new stores planned for London, Milan, New York, Tokyo and Asia.

While Antwerp remains the house's historic flagship, the brand opened a flagship store in Milan at 22 Via Monte Napoleone in February 2026, through the Antonioli Group. The Paris opening is its second of the year.

The new store is located at 151/154 Galerie de Valois, in the gardens of the Palais-Royal. Spanning 150 square metres, it features womenswear and menswear prêt-à-porter, shoes, accessories and the Tableware collection for the brand Serax. A limited-edition shirt is sold exclusively at this location.

In 2027, the brand will open a store in London. It has also announced a forthcoming flagship in Tokyo and a shop-in-shop at Shanghai Plaza 66.

Designed as “immersive expressions of Ann Demeulemeester's creative universe,” these boutiques aim to “strengthen the brand's value, foster a direct relationship with customers and enrich the consumer experience through architecture, materials and atmosphere”.

However, while Ann Demeulemeester is relying on D2C to tap into key European markets, its expansion outside Europe continues to depend on partnerships with local players.