Amid fair evolution: CIFF 66 signals reset as brands reposition, refresh, and test new strategies

A dusting of snow lined the street on the opening morning of Copenhagen International Fashion Fair (CIFF) as buyers made their way to the Bella Center for the 2026 winter iteration, held January 27 to 29. This season, the fair, celebrating its 66th edition, introduced a slew of new features designed to energise the event and support brands and retailers beyond the floor, a mission that was also evident in this year’s theme, ‘CIFF Super’.

Upon entering, visitors were ushered into a pared back supermarket-inspired environment, with classic background music overhead and racks stacked with generic products lining the aisles. CIFF director Sofie Dolva told FashionUnited that the playful concept was meant to “create a context where brands are presented in a more relatable, everyday environment”. “Like walking through a supermarket, at CIFF, you see products in a familiar setting, but here it’s curated and inspiring. It’s about storytelling and giving visitors a new way to experience collections,” she noted.

Historically, CIFF’s summer edition sees higher attendance than winter, as noted by several regular exhibitors, with the first two days generally busier than the last, a trend that remained into this most recent season. Yet, Dolva explained that the fair’s international reach was actually growing, with visitors from the Middle East particularly impressed by the setup and presentation. She also noted strong growth from the Dutch market and Eastern Europe, while Asia, though often favouring Paris, also remains imperative. Sweden showed significant growth this season, surpassing Germany for the first time in several years.

The Market, TechCreate, 10 Corso Como: New experiences inject energy into trade floor

Thomas, CEO of DM&T, emphasised the strategic role of CIFF for Danish brands seeking internationalisation. “Denmark is a small market, so global reach is essential,” he said. “The fair serves as a springboard for global relevance while maintaining strong local and Nordic focus. Businesses today, they hate uncertainty. We’ve had logistics issues, inflation, trade issues… The amount of uncertainty is challenging for businesses, because clothing is an easy product for consumers to save money on.”

To support retailers beyond the trade floor, CIFF experimented with concept stores and special projects this year. For the first time, visitors could buy products directly on the trade floor, with Italian retailer 10 Corso Como hosting a collaborative space at the entrance ahead of CIFF heading over to Milan Fashion Week in June for a continued cultural exchange programme. Opposite this area sat The Market, another new concept curated by Fine Chaos, providing “small seeds of creativity” and a chance to showcase new ideas.

The TechCreate area introduced tech solutions to brands and retailers, allowing them to explore commerce tools and practical support. “By partnering up with Delogue, they are helping us curate the best of the best tech solutions across the ecosystem for the brands. We take them into a safe medium and, through brand cases, visually show how they can optimise their business without hiring ten more people,” Dolva said. “It’s very difficult with tech solutions – there’s tons out there. Our way is to help translate it into understandable language for the fashion industry, so brands can focus more on sales and future strategy.”

Womenswear continues to dominate

In the way of exhibitors, womenswear continued to dominate, taking up roughly 60 to 70 percent of the floor. While other categories remain in flux, the womenswear halls retained more stability and steady traffic, aided by the presence of well-established Danish brands. Chakki Kaewkamsorn, international account executive for US label Rails, said Scandinavian independent boutiques made up the bulk of visitors passing by. From his perspective, the fair allows retailers to preview collections before appointments in other markets, where Rails is more likely to engage with larger accounts.

This season, the brand introduced a more European-centric collection, including soft suiting tailored to Scandinavian tastes alongside signature items. Rails’ European expansion continues, with a focus on Nordic markets, Benelux, and Spain. Kaewkamsorn praised CIFF’s strategic stand placement, aligning the brand with others at a similar price point, avoiding adjacency with lower-priced labels.

Elsewhere, in CIFF Village, which houses permanent brand showrooms, Martin Gaden, store owner of German womenswear label Marc Cain, reported a positive outlook. The brand typically flies in buyers four times a year, both for the fair and off-season collections, with a primary focus on Scandinavian markets. Already well-established in Denmark, Norway, and Finland, Marc Cain has recently expanded in Sweden and relies on showroom-based relationships rather than mass trade fair orders to maintain its premium positioning.

A quieter menswear area pushes targeted approaches

Menswear, in contrast, remained quieter across the three days. Dolva noted the category faces challenges in Denmark, prompting the fair to strengthen matchmaking efforts and introduce experiential elements, such as food vendors and DJs that align with the vibe of exhibiting brands, to engage visitors. Woodbird, for example, returned with its Chinese restaurant concept at the stand and dressed CIFF staff to deepen its relationship with the fair. Designer Casper Vest Godskesen said the brand was presenting a collection that subtly moved beyond streetwear roots, offering a mature take on graphics and tailoring. Interest has grown from Greece, Canada, Eastern Europe, Spain, and Germany, where the label recently relaunched.

Alpha Industries, represented by Lotta Ottosson of Loke Stockholm, targeted independent Nordic retailers, particularly in southern Sweden, as it repositions as a premium brand. Efforts include cleaning up previous over-distribution and focusing on selective stores and collaborations. In the same area, K-Way, also under Ottosson, is gradually being introduced to the Nordic market, with buyers recognising the brand internationally but end consumers still becoming familiar. Increasing visibility was therefore a priority for Ottosson, making CIFF integral to both long-term growth and broader repositioning.

As noted by Ottosson, CIFF’s timing for menswear remains late in the season, requiring targeted approaches rather than full-scale presentations. Dutch label Kuyichi experiences steady footfall in the first two days, with meaningful contacts made and expectations of follow-up business. The late timing allows buyers to allocate remaining budgets to new collections, sales contact Chris Konings said. His mission is to reestablish the denim-centric brand in Scandinavia after a previous market exit.

Brands relaunch and refresh after period of uncertainty

It was indeed clear that many exhibitors used CIFF to relaunch or refresh their brands. Danish label Selected unveiled a new retail concept, due to roll out in Germany, while US-owned, Dutch label Scotch & Soda also sought to revive its presence in the region, prioritising qualitative interactions over footfall. Chief sales officer Sander Born highlighted the brand’s heritage revival through archive-inspired items and storytelling elements, reintroducing Nordic buyers to the Scotch & Soda world following its acquisition by Bluestar Alliance.

Denim was certainly enjoying a moment at the fair. Juicy Couture introduced its rebranded denim line, while Guess Jeans, the new Gen Z-focused Guess label, took to CIFF for the first time to introduce its concept to Nordic customers. The focus of sales manager Jakob Halberg Kruse was market penetration, while spotlighting innovations, like its laser-printing machine that was on-hand to customise bags. Positive early reception indicated strong potential for the market, with Kruse adding: “CIFF is a good place to showcase new lines and create something different that people engage with.”

UK label Hunter was also looking for opportunities to promote its new rainwear line. The series of waterproof raincoats build on the mission to offer technical products that retain a fashion-forward appeal. The decision to show at CIFF, according to Jonas Eriksson, creative director of Lance Designbyrå and designer of the new line, was due to the brand’s strong relevance to the Danish market. Scandinavia also serves as Hunter’s largest market outside of the UK, with initial responses from visitors being very positive.

CIFF’s ability to serve exhibitors as a platform for newness did not go unnoticed. Director Sofie Dolva expresses enthusiasm for unknown names that have strong potential, highlighting their presence to visitors. South Korean bag brand Pleats, for example, was positioned at a prime spot on the floor, with a stand featuring a ceiling-high receipt and displays exhibiting its concept – bags made from recycled PET bottles, discarded nets and, in some cases, a newly launched material derived from corn.

Now in its second season at CIFF, Becky Hong, global sales team manager, was optimistic after seeing strong early traction from the Nordic region, alongside broader European buyers, particularly multibrand retailers. The stand itself remained busy throughout the three days, with orders already written and new contacts made. For the team, the fair is seen as “the place to go” for brands focused on sustainability, making CIFF a good showcase for eco-conscious concepts.

Supporting emerging labels increasingly integral to CIFF

On a more local level, demand for emerging brands seems to be on the rise. This year, Dolva expanded Copenhagen Fashion Week’s NewTalent area, and debuted CIFF Editions, a division for small-scale Nordic labels. In a section elevated with dramatic curtains, adding to the permanent NewTalent space in CIFF Village, Editions caters to brands that have not yet become a mid-sized company, and thus need extra support. Dolva said: “We tried to elevate the area in a way where it’s still very simple but they don’t need to invest much in a huge setup. There is still a brand presence. It’s quite a big investment from our side to have this showroom feel more exclusive.”

Together with DM&T, CIFF nurtures new designers with reduced fees and guidance on business matters. Dolva continues to evaluate the brands present in order to ensure commercial potential, yet the challenge of getting retailers to trust in new brands remains. “We are here at CIFF because we believe that it is one of the best ways to support our talent, by allowing buyers to come by and see the potential from a business perspective,” Cecilie Thorsmark, CPHFW’s CEO, said in a press meeting. “We take care of the artistic runways and you [the CIFF team] take care of the business, and that’s why I think it’s such a good alliance.”

Now in its final NewTalent year, Bonnetje found retailers cautious but positive, with founders Anna Myntekær and Yoko Maja Hansen noting that CIFF provided essential exposure. “We wouldn’t have reached out in such a way if we weren’t part of the programme,” Hansen said. The brand is now preparing to embark on a solo journey beyond NewTalent, with the founders pointing at potentially pausing larger runway shows to focus on sales and smarter production solutions, building on what they have learnt over the years.

Sitting within CIFF Editions, CPHFW regular OpéraSport was another leveraging the fair, participation in which was seen as a natural next step as the brand aims for organic growth. “If you are showing at CIFF, it gives more credibility to your brand. Buyers take you more seriously, especially if you are newer to the market,” Jens Wiinblad, the brand’s commercial director, said. Wiinblad reported a mix of returning buyers and new potential wholesale partners dropping by the stand, predominantly from Scandinavia, but interest was also seen from the likes of US, Japan and Estonia. His focus is expanding internationally only where demand already exists, rather than forcing growth.

Technical wear shows potential as future of childrenswear brought into question

Childrenswear remained a challenge despite the Kids 2.0 revamp. Brands like Germany’s Tom Tailor received cross-border interest, but overall engagement was limited. Such experiences have thrown into question whether longstanding attendees like Denmark’s Hust & Claire will return in the following years. Dolva also expressed doubt over the category’s future. “A lot has happened throughout the last year with kids,” she said. “Feedback was ok after the launch. These brands still want an order platform where they can show together. But it’s not an area I can see us continuing as it looks right now. The effort we need to put in, compared to the output, is just not feasible.”

Dolva is instead focused on segments that have growth potential and could fuel more energy into the trade fair floor. Beauty, introduced around three years ago, has been integral to this mission, and is now woven into the aisles, giving buyers broader depth of offering. Another area showing promise is technical wear, a reflection of widening interest in yoga and other forms of specialised sportswear.

A representative of that is Goldbergh, a Dutch skiwear brand that boasted one of the larger stands at the fair. Valentine van Baak, retail and brand activation specialist, said the label was returning to CIFF, after previously showing in the summer edition, with a goal of expanding visibility for the casual collection. While looking out for both new international buyers and existing customers, Goldbergh sees CIFF as a prime platform for buyer engagement.

During a period of flux for the global trade fair landscape, CIFF remains a critical launchpad and exposure platform for brands, offering opportunities that help prioritise networking, experimentation and visibility. This is part of Dolva’s 360 approach to aiding exhibitors and retailers beyond the trade floor, meaning CIFF serves “as more than just a buying platform – it’s about community, inspiration and planting seeds for future creativity”.

“The fair is evolving; it’s not just racks of clothes anymore – it’s about experiences, storytelling, and creating connections between brands, retailers, and consumers,” she said. “Our goal is to create an environment where visitors leave inspired, and brands leave with a clear sense of how to grow – locally and internationally.”