Chanel to part ways with its artistic director, Virginie Viard

A notable vacancy has emerged at Chanel as artistic director Virginie Viard announces her departure. The news, first reported by Business of Fashion on Wednesday evening, marks a significant shift for the iconic fashion house.

In an email statement, Chanel confirmed, "Chanel confirms the departure of Virginie Viard after a rich collaboration of five years as Artistic Director of Fashion Collections, during which she was able to renew the codes of the House while respecting the creative heritage of Chanel, and almost thirty years within the House."

Viard succeeded Karl Lagerfeld in 2019

Viard's exit will likely result in a broader shuffle of leadership at at the fashion house. Viard’s departure is particularly momentous, as it will be the first break in creative leadership since Karl Lagerfeld's tenure, which began in the 1980s. Viard, who worked closely with Lagerfeld for three decades before his death, has been at the helm since 2019.

Chanel will present its Haute Couture 2024 Winter Collection in Paris this month as the industry awaits for a successor announcement. In May, the brand showcased its Cruise 2025 collection in Marseille, which received mixed reviews and seemed to target a younger audience.

Financially, Chanel remains robust. The German-owned company reported a 16 percent revenue increase, reaching 19.7 billion dollars in 2023. Chanel CEO Leena Nair indicated no plans to alter the brand’s creative strategy following these results. Chief Financial Officer Philippe Blondiaux, however, highlighted the ready-to-wear sector’s success under Viard, noting a 23 percent rise in sales last year.

Speculation about Viard's replacement includes notable names such as Celine’s Hedi Slimane, former Valentino designer Pierpaolo Piccioli, and Sarah Burton, who similarly succeeded Alexander McQueen after his death.

Unlike the highly publicized appointments at LVMH and Kering, Chanel traditionally takes a more discreet approach with its creative directors. Viard, who spent over 30 years at Chanel, was seen as a stabilising force following Lagerfeld's flamboyant era.

Despite strong sales, some argue that Chanel's allure has diminished. Critics cite runway shows lacking Lagerfeld’s dramatic flair and advertising campaigns perceived as less cohesive. Additionally, multiple price hikes and social media controversies may have alienated some customers.

As Chanel transitions, the industry watches closely to see how the new leadership will shape the future of this storied fashion house.