Charles Tyrwhitt: The British label on Pitti, new markets and the move beyond formalwear

Charles Tyrwhitt arrived at Pitti Immagine Uomo with its SS27 collection and a clear message: the British brand built on fine shirts is now a full menswear proposition with global reach. Across nearly four decades it has grown from a London shirt specialist into a wardrobe spanning tailoring, knitwear, casualwear and accessories, sold in more than 20 markets through owned retail, e-commerce, franchise, wholesale and licensing.

Fresh from exhibiting, Simon Gaffey, international third party director at Charles Tyrwhitt, spoke to FashionUnited about its international growth, the shift toward smart-casual, what sets a Tyrwhitt shirt apart and where the trade can find it next.

Charles Tyrwhitt was founded on the conviction that it starts with a proper shirt, built the Jermyn Street way. How would you define the brand's DNA today?

While we have evolved into a complete menswear brand, our DNA remains unchanged: helping men dress well with timeless style, exceptional quality and outstanding value. The shirt is still at the heart of everything we do, but today we offer a full wardrobe solution, from tailoring and knitwear to casualwear and accessories. What has remained constant is our commitment to doing things properly, the Jermyn Street way: quality craftsmanship, attention to detail and a relentless focus on the customer.

You describe the business as multi-country and multi-channel, active in multiple territories through owned retail, e-commerce, franchise, wholesale and licence. How does that model work as a competitive advantage?

Our model gives us both scale and resilience. We operate through owned retail, e-commerce, wholesale, franchise and licensing partnerships, allowing us to meet customers wherever they prefer to shop. At the same time, it enables us to enter new markets in a capital-efficient way while maintaining brand consistency. The combination of strong direct-to-consumer capabilities and carefully selected local partners gives us broad market reach alongside deep local expertise.

International markets such as the US and Germany drive a significant share of turnover. Which regions are you prioritising next, and what is the rationale behind that sequencing?

Along with the UK, the US, Germany and Australia remain very important markets for us, but we are increasingly focused on accelerating expansion across Asia, the Middle East and selected European territories. Recent developments in India, the UAE and Vietnam through franchise collaborations demonstrate the strength of our international model and the appetite for premium British menswear. We have also recently launched localised websites in Switzerland, Canada, the Netherlands, Scandinavia and Ireland, and to coincide with Pitti, we launched an Italian website. This localised model will be rolled out further over the coming months.

Our sequencing is driven by a combination of market size, demographic trends, partner quality and our ability to establish a sustainable long-term presence. We are particularly interested in markets where there is a growing middle and affluent consumer base with an appreciation for quality, heritage and British style.

Your product mix has shifted toward smart-casual alongside the formal core. What is driving this evolution, and how does it show up in your merchandising and buying decisions?

Customer lifestyles continue to evolve. The return to the office has created demand for clothing that is polished and versatile, but not necessarily formal in the traditional sense. As a result, categories such as polos, chinos, knitwear and casual tailoring have become increasingly important alongside our formal foundations. Our merchandising strategy reflects this balance: maintaining authority in formalwear while expanding categories that allow customers to dress appropriately across work, travel and leisure.

Shirting remains the foundation. For a trade audience, what genuinely differentiates a Charles Tyrwhitt shirt at the level of fit, fabric and construction?

It starts with fit. We offer multiple fits and collar options because we recognise that one size, or one silhouette, does not suit every customer. We also invest heavily in fabric quality, sourcing premium cottons and incorporating performance benefits such as our renowned non-iron technology. At a construction level, the focus is on durability, comfort and consistency. Every detail, from collar construction to stitching standards and finishing, is designed to deliver a product that performs exceptionally well while representing outstanding value. Our iconic non-iron cotton shirts have become a benchmark market leader within the category.

The collection you brought to Pitti: what are the standout pieces or themes this season, and how does it signal where the range is heading?

The collection reflects the continued convergence of smart and casual dressing. We showcased refined tailoring, elevated casualwear and versatile layering pieces designed to work across multiple occasions. The overarching direction is one of effortless sophistication: products that deliver comfort and practicality without compromising on style. It reflects the way our customers live today and demonstrates how the brand continues to evolve while staying true to its heritage.

What was the response from buyers and partners at the fair, and did Pitti open conversations in any new markets or channels?

Pitti Uomo remains one of the most influential menswear trade events in the world and a key meeting point for global buyers, distributors and partners, which makes it central to our wholesale and international-development strategy. The response this time was extremely encouraging. The SS27 collection generated our highest visitor traffic since we began exhibiting at the fair, supported by a redesigned stand and strong buyer engagement.

We welcomed existing partners from markets including the UK, India, the United States, Australia and Greece, while also opening discussions with a number of prospective new partners in Spain, Germany, Ireland, Japan and Latin America. Perhaps most importantly, the event reaffirmed the global appeal of our proposition and generated conversations across both established and emerging markets.

Beyond Pitti, where can the trade find and engage with the brand across your retail estate, e-commerce and partner network, and what should the industry watch for in the coming seasons?

Trade partners can engage with Charles Tyrwhitt through our retail network, e-commerce platform, growing international franchise estate and expanding wholesale partnerships. We currently operate in more than 20 markets through a combination of owned and partner-led channels, including ten global department store operators.

Looking ahead, the industry should watch for continued international expansion, further development of our casualwear and tailoring categories, and ongoing investment in creating a genuinely omnichannel customer experience. Above all, they should expect us to remain focused on what has always made Charles Tyrwhitt successful: exceptional product, outstanding value and seamless channel engagement, always helping men look and feel their best, making it easy for them to dress well.