Colour, fabric and print highlights at PFW SS24

Fashion week in Paris for ss24 was held between September 26 and October 3, 2023 with 140 brands showing. In contrast to Milan, which saw the debut collections of several designers, including Sabato De Sarno’s debut at Gucci; Peter Hawkings at Tom Ford and Simone Bellotti’s first collection at Bally, Paris said farewell to two strong female leads, Sarah Burton at Alexander McQueen and Gabriela Hearst at Chloé. They will be missed. Buyers on the lookout for fresh designs were well rewarded. Here are the highlights.

1) A blue mood

Despite disappointment in some quarters that the colours were too muted, others felt there was enough to keep next seasons’ customers excited. Shades of blue, and cobalt blue in particular, brighten up the runways.

Acne Studios: designer, Jonny Johansson

Look 18: a cobalt blue semi-sheer maxi dress with an asymmetric split and extra-long sleeves. Accessories included matching blue hose and patent ankle strap sandals.

Balmain: designer, Oliver Rousteing

Look 45: a cobalt blue drop-waisted short dress with a deep vee front and a flounced skirt was embellished with sequined pink flowers and green stems. The outfit was accessorized with a yellow handbag, a large diamante cuff, a large green cuff and peach and orange spectator pumps.

Givenchy: designer, Matthew M. Williams

Look 25: a strapless fitted midi-length dress in cobalt blue suede with oversized studs in one ear, a chain handle white bag, sheer blue socks and navy blue ankle strap shoes.

Issey Miyake: designer, Satoshi Kondo

Look 24: a cobalt blue wide shouldered jacket over a cowl necked blouse and matching pants in a fabric with surface shine.

Shiatzy Chen

Look 59: a cobalt blue chiffon duster with embellishment on the arms over lighter blue knit top and shorts. Silver ankle strap sandals completed the look.

2) On the dark side

When it came to fabric, denim, in many weights and finishes, made a strong showing in Paris. However, it was dark and raw denimin new and interesting silhouettes that made the biggest impact.

Cecilie Bahnsen

Look 15: a dark denim cropped jacket with red stitching and a matching flounced skirt with bows on the pockets over a red tulle underskirt. Accessories included black socks and rubber Mary-Janes.

Alexander McQueen: designer, Sarah Burton

Look 21: a dark denim jacket had a shaped waist and lace-up details and was matched to short shorts. Silver earrings, black over-the-knee boots and a black bag accessorized the look.

Sacai: designer, Chitose Abe

Look 13: a sleeveless dark denim dress with orange stitching and patch pockets was shown with sheer black socks and black boots.

Schiaparelli, designer, Daniel Roseberry

Look 16: a dark denim coat with a dramatically oversized collar and white stitching. The coat had gold buttons of mixed shapes and was shown over a dress with a high low hem and contrast trim. Accessories included a single gold earring, a gold cuff, white socks and sneakers with a gold toe.

Y/Project: designer, Glenn Martens

Look 45: a short bodycon dress in dark denim with a ruffled neckline trimmed with a light wash denim and defined bra details. Silver earrings, a black clutch and white sandals completed the look.

3) Seeing red (and brown)

Leather was another popular material amongst Parisian designers, and in addition to the more expected black jackets and other pieces, were those rendered in red, rust and brown.

Alaïa: designer, Pieter Mulier

Look 37: a fitted brown double-breasted lambskin coat with a stand-up collar, accessorized by a black fur stole, black stirrup leggings and brown ankle strap peep-toe sandals.

Isabel Marant

Look 11: a short red leather top with wide cap sleeves over a matching short wrap skirt, a silver cuff and black platform mules.

Loewe: designer, Jonathan Anderson

Look 18: a mid-length brown leather double-breasted coat with flap pockets hiked up on one side with a matching tote bag and pointed toed mules.

Rick Owens

Look 29: a red leather motorbike jacket with pagoda shoulders and a lighter red maxi skirt. A sheer red veil and red platforms completed the look.

Hermès: designer, Nadège Vanhee

Look 45: a red leather mini length coat with wide lapels and flap pockets over a rib-knit short dress and red strappy sandals.

4) Fringe benefits

Akris: designer, Albert Kriemler

Look 53: a sleeveless drop-waist mini dress with extra-long fringes and red Mary-Jane flats.

Ann Demeulemeester: designer, Stefano Gallici

Look 18: a black leather apron with extra-long fringe over a cream tailored suit

Mugler: designer, Casey Cadwallader

Look 31: a black blazer covered in long black fringe; nude fringe hanging from stockings and a nude shoulder bag with extra-long fringe.

Mark Esber

Look 34: a white semi-sheer bodysuit under a white woven skirt with a long sequined fringe and white round toed woven mules.

Christian Dior: designer, Maria Grazia Chiuri

Look 72: Long black strips of material hang from a bodysuit with a sheer midriff and knee-high pointed toe strappy sandals. Jewelry included a gold choker, a single earring and thin bangles.

5) Flower power

In the Devil wears Prada, Miranda Priestly might have stated sarcastically, “florals for spring? …groundbreaking” and yet once again, they were the most prevalent print. Bold flowers were the most popular.

Chanel: designer, Virginie Viard

Look 66: large flat florals in shades of pink and yellow on a navy background embellished with the brand logo in a variety of pastel and bright colours and a matching top under a cardigan with a center placed floral motif. A chain handle shoulder bag was the main accessory

Az Factory: designers, Norman René Devera and Peter Movrin

Look 33: a print of hot pink roses on an orange background was rendered in Duchess silk for a detailed top and matching shorts. Cobalt blue and orange pumps completed the look.

Balenciaga: designer, Demna

Look 65: a floor-length, cape sleeved shift, with a vintage-look print of yellow and orange florals on a yellow background.

Balmain: designer, Oliver Rousteing

Look 35: a trench coat with a wet look finish and a print of large roses in pink, green, pale blue, yellow and orange

Paul & Joe: designer, Sophie Mechaly

Look 22: a long shift dress with spaghetti straps and off-the-shoulder short puffy sleeves. The print had large yellow sunflower heads on a background of brown and tan coloured leaves.