Fausto Puglisi debuts at Pitti Uomo 90

The backdrop of Florence's rich art history seemed the perfect launchpad for Fausto Puglisi's Pitti Uomo debut. The Italian designer combined his womenswear Resort alongside his first men's Spring Summer 2017 collection and unveiled both in a disused train station. Puglisi's design signatures are color-blocking, bias cuts, metal appliqués and hand embroideries, many of which he unapologetically combines in one look.

Puglisi is a maximalist, a bold designer who's tone strikes a similar chord to Italy's often 'molto sexy' approach to fashion. For women that entailed short party dresses with bold florals, embellished pleats and studded accessories, all layered with plenty of ornate jewelry and thigh-high floral leg covers. For men that meant mostly naked torsos with leather shorts and Roman gladiator sandals.

Still, the strength of the collection was perhaps not in its embellishment and over-styling, but in taking out the simpler pieces which would work well on their own, such as a pretty blue and rose floral dress from look ten (sans jewelry, sans leg covers), or a silk bomber jacket with utility stripes and gold trims, best worn without the leather studded skirt, leather studded leg covers and leather studded bra top. These are hero pieces that presumably keep his retailers happy, which incidentally includes impressive wholesale channels such as Bergdorf Goodman and Selfridges.

Images:Fausto Puglisi Twitter