Five trends for knits & woven fabrics watch out for AW23/24

Fluidity, shifting shapes and real, raw, unedited forms. Intelligent and adaptive bodily designs, with new materials stemming from the power of the imagination and a shift towards intrinsically eco-conceived fabrics that make us feel safe and protected at the same time. Woven and knits full of air with light changing colours blended with an escapist edge - these are just a few of the key trends highlighted in the “Lenzing Connect 4 Trends Conference AW2324” hosted by Lenzing with the contribution of Pascaline Wilhelm founder of P W N E W, the international fashion & textile prospective agency and the stylist Sabine Le Chatelier for fashion woven and knit fabrics in AW23/24. Taking a look at some of the anticipated trends ahead of AW 23/24, here we share five of the main takeaways from Lenzing.

Fluidity

The notion of fluidity has become synonymous with performance, freedom and power. Especially relevant in the natural world, inspired by the changing state of water, which is becoming even more precious and essential today, is translated into fluid and structured fabrics, loose shapes and materials with relaxed aspects and changing colours.

For AW23, the notion of fluidity is translated into heavy, substantial fabrics, micro pattern jacquards and double-layered knits or mega crepe textures. Think micro jacquards that are soft, which catch and delicately reflect the light. Woven fabrics that follow and enhance the silhouette with a focus on waves, stitches and structures will also be key to this trend, together with fabrics that drape beautifully across the body and reinforce the lines of the form. A real feeling of freedom that play with the movement and rebound of the fabrics in the hands. Fluidity in fabrics can be achieved through different yarn designs and structures, such as basket weaves, double knits and the use of TENCEL™ branded lyocell fibers. When mixed with wool or cotton, or even left pure, TENCEL™ LUXE filament yarn help keep yarns supple and smooth after the dyeing and finishing process. These cellulosic fibers, designed for sensuality yet made responsibly, also give woven and knit fabrics an extremely soft hand-touch and luxurious drape effect, perfectly in line with the movement of this trend.

Volume

Picture a place where unbridled imaginary paves the way for the future. Inspired by technological developments such as the metaverse and augmented reality, this trend stems from the urge to head into unexplored fields and build our personal worlds with strong color contrasts, big, deconstructed silhouettes and lively surfaces. The focus on bigger shapes and volumes translated into fabrics with 3D textures, like inflated quilting, knitted honeycombs and waffle surfaces. But also light and airy feeling knits, as if they are full of air and bumpy, irregular surfaces to protect with style and unconventional beauty.

With a preference for natural materials and fibers for womenswear ready to wear, multi-layered and reversible woven fabrics for outerwear will be important for this AW23 trend. Double-faced fabrics can be used to create volume by using a mix of synthetic fabric layers and cellulosic fabric layers. TENCEL™ fibers catering for the activewear segment are ideal for the outer layer fabrics due to their superior moisture management properties and abilities to regulate body temperature. At the same time, TENCEL™ Lyocell and Modal fibers blended with fine wool, merino, cashmere or pure are suitable for weaving cozy, chunky or waffled fabrics.

Shine

The need to shine, to show off and to celebrate everything in the excess following over two years of lockdown is the driving force behind this trend. Influenced by the virtual world and the urge to test out new materials fueled by the power of the imagination, this is seen in high-density shine and in-depth shine woven fabrics and knits.

For AW23 ready to wear, expect more gentle and joyful, iridescent hues that capture the light, with wet vibrant aspects that are reflective of the beauty of the non-natural world. At the same time, high shine, almost alive, multi-coloured surfaces, crumpled mirror and metallic sheen woven fabrics and knits for ready to wear, sportswear and evening wear will also be key for this trend.

Jumble

The actual state of the world reflects a sense of unsettledness, which open deep question about the future. A resurgence of the anti-establishment and grunge spirit is on the rise, as people invite their inner rebel in and embrace the beauty of raw, untouched and primary objects.

Moving away from the notion of over perfection, overproduction and overconsumption, this trend for AW23 can be seen in the rise of jumbled, destroyed, smokey and almost delicately destroyed woven fabrics and knits. The use of chinés and twisted yarns can create very soft, subtle blurs in woven fabrics, especially in woolen and cashmere fabrics mixed with cellulosic fibers. Woven and knitted fabrics like tweed and velvet take on a crafted, rustic look with multi-coloured irregularities on the surface, but with always soft touch. A preference to see the different colour imperfections on non-smooth woven fabrics is a key part of this trend, which can be achieved by using spun dyed TENCEL™ Modal fibers.

Downy

The need for comfort, protection and sanctuary is a leading part of this trend for AW23, says the trend forecasters, which will be evident in unbrushed, soft and hairy finishings. With many consumers looking for a way to bring a sense of protection, calm and comfort into their daily lives through how they dress, interest in velvety, funny fake furs, hairy and brushed woven fabrics and knits for ready to wear and outerwear will be a big trend for AW23. Polar fleece constructed with TENCEL™ branded fibers, with noticeable hair and super-soft hand touch, plush cozy voiles and high pile fabrics that look natural and are made responsibly all tie into this trend.

A season of optimistic developments where the essential notion of eco-responsibility will be enhanced by the evolution of collective engagement for a respectful fashion. An essential season played with enriched surfaces, rough and grunge effects, irregular aspects of lights and a real structured fluidity. Fabrics and knits conceived and constructed for comfort and gentleness silhouettes, unctuous and soften surfaces with joyful colors to make a fantastic and relevant new season.