Haelixa and New Focus Textiles deliver forensic proof of recycled cotton
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In what could be a turning point for transparency in the recycled materials market, Swiss traceability firm Haelixa has teamed up with New Focus Textiles to embed forensic-level proof of recycled cotton across the latter’s textile-to-textile (T2T) operations. The move reflects a growing recognition in fashion: recycled claims are only as strong as the evidence behind them.
Why DNA matters in circular cotton
New Focus Textiles, which specialises in turning both post-industrial and post-consumer cotton waste into GRS-certified recycled fabrics, has applied Haelixa’s DNA marker to its feedstock before shredding and mechanical recycling. The technology is striking in its simplicity and robustness: Haelixa’s non-toxic DNA, derived from Swiss mountain herbs, remains permanently attached through spinning, dyeing, weaving, and finishing.
That means, at any stage of production, a sample can be taken and tested in an accredited lab using PCR analysis. The result is not just a paper trail, but a physical fingerprint, confirming real recycled content, not just a chain-of-custody claim.
This is more than incremental innovation. As Patrick Strumpf, CEO of Haelixa, puts it: “Recycled claims need solid evidence by marking textile waste, manufacturers can scientifically prove the presence of recycled content and secure customers’ trust.”
From science to assurance
New Focus Textiles’ T2T™ programme has previously offered GRS-certified recycled cotton. But by integrating Haelixa’s DNA tracing, the company now adds a layer of scientific verification: each batch is not only traceable on paper, but also verifiable in the lab.
Jennie Peterson, PhD and partner at New Focus, explains that this “strengthens customers’ trust. Our buyers no longer need to rely on claims alone, we can verify the recycled origin with forensic evidence.”
On top of that, the DNA marker system dovetails with digital traceability platforms such as TextileGenesis, giving brands, auditors, and suppliers a unified view of supply chain data backed by physical proof.
Ahead of regulatory curves
This development arrives at a critical moment. Policymakers in the EU are already rolling out Digital Product Passport requirements, and regulatory scrutiny on green claims is only intensifying. Being able to scientifically validate recycled content helps brands reduce both reputational risk and compliance risk, particularly as greenwashing accusations become more common.
One of Haelixa’s own FAQs highlights precisely this point: the technology “provides forensic proof of origin at every step, ensuring brands can demonstrate compliance with the EU’s Due Diligence Regulation.” ---
Haelixa’s growing footprint
Haelixa, a spin-off from ETH Zürich, has built a niche in applying DNA markers directly onto raw materials as a tamper-proof identity tag. Their markers are vegan, biodegradable, and comply with both GOTS and OEKO‑TEX Standard 100, making them well-suited for high-integrity textile uses
The company is no stranger to high-stakes collaborations: it has ongoing partnerships with C&A, tracing their organic cotton supply chain, and with OVS, tracking Italian-grown cotton through the full manufacturing journey
What This Could Mean for the Industry
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Trust, built on science Brands that adopt DNA tracing could finally provide true proof of recycled content — not just certifications or self-reported volumes.
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Competitive differentiation In a crowded circularity space, physical verification may become a differentiator. For brands serious about sustainability, this offers a way to go beyond “greenwashing-safe” claims.
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Regulatory readiness With legislation tightening, having embedded traceability could help brands not just comply, but proactively manage risk.
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Scalable circularity If widely adopted across recyclers and fabric mills, this model could scale: every fabric made from recycled cotton could carry a unique, verifiable DNA signature.
A working blueprint
The Haelixa–New Focus Textiles partnership feels less like a futuristic proof-of-concept and more like a working blueprint for how circular fashion should back its claims. As sustainability standards tighten and consumers demand more than marketing, DNA-based traceability could shift from “nice-to-have” to must-have.
Whether this becomes the industry standard remains to be seen, but for now, it sets a notably higher bar for credibility in recycled textiles.