In Pictures: Zara Unveils Capsule Collection Designed by Stefano Pilati

On the back of the retailer's Zara Streaming launch, Zara is now releasing a special capsule collection designed by renowned Italian designer Stefano Pilati. Pilati, who previously held the creative reins at fashion houses Saint Laurent and Zegna, has created this collection for both men and women, set to launch on October 3.

Pilati rose to fame when he succeeded Tom Ford as creative director at Saint Laurent, where he worked from 2004 to 2012. He then moved to Ermenegildo Zegna, where he served as creative director for four years. In 2017, he launched his own fashion label, Random Identities, focused on menswear. He has also collaborated with brands such as Fendi, for whom he designed a special collection for autumn/winter 2023/2024.

As a preview, Zara has already shown some of the garments and striking looks from Pilati’s collection.

Despite his impressive track record in the industry, Pilati has never before launched a collection under his own name. This is unusual for a designer of his caliber, who typically feel the urge to establish their own fashion house relatively quickly. Pilati is an exception to this rule... until now.

Zara is offering the Italian designer the chance to launch his first collection under his own name. The collection is a reflection of Pilati’s personal style and sense of aesthetics. Zara has given him complete creative freedom in designing this unique capsule collection, which also pays homage to his 40-year career in fashion.

“This first collection under his own name, which celebrates four decades of creativity,” Zara said in a press release, “is inspired by Pilati’s signature style as an individual and as a designer.” These influences form the basis for the capsule collection, whose pieces reflect his unique take on elegance. The collection includes a wide range of items for men and women, which carry and expand his aesthetic signature.

Campaign with Gisele Bündchen and Steven Meisel

The launch of the collection is accompanied by a photo campaign shot in New York, featuring Pilati himself and supermodel Gisele Bündchen. The photos were taken by iconic fashion photographer Steven Meisel, a regular collaborator with Zara. Meisel also designed the author collection that Zara launched worldwide last September.

In September 2022, Zara launched the Zara x Narciso Rodríguez collection. These examples seem to indicate a clear strategy by Zara to collaborate with various top designers and creatives. The fashion giant manages to attract these industry heavyweights with high-profile productions of exceptional quality, both in terms of fashion and visuals.

Zara is following a new strategy that became visible earlier this month, showing that they are working on an innovative business model. This model ensures that the way they work, communicate and connect with the public increasingly resembles that of major fashion houses. This was also evident during the premiere of the first episode of Zara Streaming on September 25. The brand once again showed that they are able to attract big names. The premiere was attended by Cindy Crawford, her daughter Kaia Gerber, French fashion stylist Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele and American director David Lowery, among others.

Clothing for men and women, with the circle as ‘leitmotif’

Back to the “Stefano Pilati x Zara” capsule collection. The collection includes a wide selection of clothing and accessories for both men and women. The pieces are infused with Pilati’s signature style and are characterised by a dark colour palette with midnight black as the dominant colour, complemented by slate gray, stone gray and a few accents in white. Striking elements include a Louis Vuitton-esque black-and-white damier pattern and various dot patterns in the form of small strawberries, bananas or a subtle rain of dots with varying intensity.

Pilati’s collection for Zara centres around the circle, which he sees as a powerful symbol with no beginning or end. This motif is reflected in the patterns, such as dots and polka dots, and it also influences the shapes of the garments and accessories. Key pieces, such as a coat with large round buttons that Bündchen wears in the lookbook, and various bag and jewellery designs, clearly show this circular shape. The leather jacket from the men’s line also features round openings, reminiscent of designs by Prada.

Zara describes the collection as both modern and timeless, which reflects the core of Pilati’s design philosophy. The collection exudes “understated sensuality” through the cuts and flowing fabrics, and emphasises silhouette and finish. This results in pieces that are made to last and that challenge the conventions of fashion. For example, crêpe fabric creates a softer silhouette and evening wear can also be worn during the day. This mix of timelessness and innovation fits perfectly with the circle motif, which also returns in the accessories, jewellery and decorations.

The result of this collection is not a radical change in Zara’s style, but rather an expansion of what modern clothing can be. This is in line with the current demand for “freedom of expression” from consumers and society. According to Zara, the unique style that Pilati has developed during his career is also present in this collection. The capsule collection shows how Zara’s universal spirit comes together with the idea that good design should be accessible to everyone.

This article originally appeared on FashionUnited.ES. Translation via AI and edit by Rachel Douglass.