LFW Interview: Robert Wun on building his fledgling label

It is no myth that London is a hotbed for young designers and that its fashion institutions churn out talent unlike anywhere else. To be a young designer in London today is exciting, the stimulus of a city where despite the difficulties of setting up a fledgling label there are plenty of incubators and support networks to help young brands get off the ground.

FashionUnited spoke to emerging designer Robert Wun during London Fashion Week, who launched his brand in 2013 and shows his collection at the BFC's Designer Showrooms.

To what extent has the LFW platform helped to raise your brand?

The opportunity to engage with VIP's from the industry and also the exposure of the official LFW venue & marketing.

Do you feel bound by commercial constraints when you are designing?

I think it is about finding the balance between creativity and commerciality. There is also the aim of expansion in a collection being able to deliver a complete range, from statement pieces to the more accessible.

Your collections are very intricate and complicated to produce. How do you approach innovative manufacturing in London, where prices are high and quality sometimes dubious?

It is essential for me to push the boundaries not only in design but to also meet quality in craftmaship to complete the product. Being innovative in manufacturing is crucial, especially for an emerging designer.

If you could be the creative helm of any luxury house, which would you choose?

Alexander Mcqueen

How do you manage the challenges of being an independent, young designer (financing collections, brand building, turning your label into a business, etc.)

I take it one step at a time and it is about precise decision making. Also to know your strengths and weaknesses, to keep pushing and learning. I also manage to sustain the business through collaboration and commissioned jobs, like working with the Royal Ballet and Movies like the Hunger Games.

You have a very unique handwriting and key to success is having a strong point of view. How do you see your brand developing in the coming seasons?

I will carry on the aesthetic and the brand’s statement as well as explore possibilities to collaborate. I also want to create collections which are challenging, with a focus on the creative luxury market.

You have 17,000 followers on Instagram. How important is social media to get your message out?

Its definitly game changing and crucial. especially for an young label. Its the best way to let the world know about you and and your tone and approach to design.

What do you think is the path to growing into a successful brand and business

A partner to grow with, share both business and creative responsibility together, and to stay genuine and passionate!

The past few years in fashion have been defined by stylistic revolutions, like Vetements, Gucci, Saint Laurent, Loewe, etc. Is revolution necessary for a young designer?

It depends, it works for a certain labels and their business models but we cannot all follow one system. I think designers should stick with what they believe in and stay true to themselves. It doesn’t happen overnight and it shouldn’t.

The fashion industry has changed enormously in the digital age, from shopping the runway to consumer facing shows. What is your take on the industry today?

Change is inevitable, I hope we will reach a bridging point to co-exsist with all the different fashion models in a healthy market together in the future. Right now we are living in an extreme and un-even world too focused purely on trend and styling.

Robert Wun's Autumn Winter 2017 collection can be seen at the BFC's Designer Showrooms at 180 The Strand until Tuesday, and during Paris Fashion Week at 5 rue de Grenier St Lazare in the Marais.

Photo credits: Courtesy of Robert Wun