Day three of London Collections Men started with celebrated designer J.W. Anderson at 10:00, followed by fashion week heavyweights Margaret Howell, Joseph, Pringle of Scotland, Dunhill and Moschino. Sunday was a packed day of shows, presentations, private views and showrooms. Here is a list of some of our favourites:
You can never accuse Ms Howell of straying far from her signature aesthetic. This season Howell proposed a distinctly British collection of high-waisted trousers, neck scarves, knits, macs and duffle coats. Wardrobe items that become staples instead of whimsical, trend-led fashion. The Margaret Howell label shows integrity in its aspiration to create something more permanently, even if from a fashion perspective we occasionally have a sense of deja vu from her presentations.
Though not so this time. While this collection is classic 'Howell,' such as beautiful wools and cashmeres, in her staple colours of navy, greys and taupes, it was also strongly directional. Trousers, worn high-waisted, cinch-backed and pleated, were the highlight. Bold, slouchy jumpers were worn tucked in. There were also immaculate corduroy jackets, duffle coats and navy crewnecks. Minimalist, modern and never overly-designed, this was a collection of real clothes, a refreshing presentation in a sea of over-the-top London menswear.
One of the Savile Row houses that has taken to created casual, easy to wear pieces over the past few years, the Richard James show is always abundant with much more than just perfectly cut suiting. The AW16 collection took its inspiration from the London Docklands of the 1930s, so there was an overriding sense of sturdiness to the collection.
The colour palette was subdued, greys, deep navys, creams, bottle greens, but there was the occasional pop of colour in tie-dyed knitwear, reminiscent of the House's bright SS16 collection, and teal suiting. As with so many other collections this weekend, there wasn't a skinny trouser leg in sight, and double breasted jackets, nip in tight at the waist, were matched with loose, wide legged bottoms.
The casual looks that featured dark denim, big roll neck sweaters and wide lapelled overcoats were supremely wearable, as were those with donkey jackets and slouchy trousers, but perhaps unsurprisingly, the best looks were the suits. A wonderful double breasted, pleated trouser number in camel-coloured window pane check, and then again in classic Prince of Wales, were the standouts for me, and it was offered in off white, charcoal chalk stripe too. A smaller, quieter collection than last season, but still one full of things you'd want to wear.
Baartmans and Siegel
Baartmans and Siegel revised the 70s with their AW16 collection. The self-confessed ‘modern traditionalists’ looked to the fur coats and oversized eyewear as inspiration. Golden Years’. ‘Spanish Harlem’. ‘Concrete’. ‘Hoodrat’. All words picked out big on the shownotes for the Dutch-English design duo Baartmans And Siegel, who chose New York 1976 as the inspiration for their AW16 show.
A knockout marriage of street style and glam eveningwear, this collection (with women’s preview) reflected the disparate tribes of Harlem and Studio 54, certainly apt on the day of David Bowie's death. Highlights included a beautifully embroidered suede bomber jacket, double-breasted chalk stripe tailoring, and a seriously amazing fox fur coat. Trousers were loose and cinched, while handmade optics brand F.A.N Optics created magnificent sparkly Bakelite sunglasses.
There is always a sense of wonder and curiosity about a McQueen show, and Sarah Burton's menswear, like her womenswear, has a profound otherworldly quality to it. Though the majority of garments in her AW16 show for Alexander McQueen, which was shown in the imposing surrounds of the Foreign office, were military inspired – tailored frock coats, skirted jackets with epaulettes and loose trousers with blood stripes dominated – there was plenty of embroidery in the form of butterflies and gilded floral patterns which added an ethereal charm. Trousers were loose, boots and lace-ups were chunky and winter-ready.
Images:Margaret Howell, Richard James, Baartmans and Siegel, Alexander McQueen AW16