L'Oreal and Estée Lauder perfumes linked to child labour, says report

A BBC investigation has uncovered the use of child labour in the jasmine supply chains of two major luxury perfume brands, Lancôme and Aerin Beauty. The investigation revealed that children are picking jasmine flowers in Egypt, which supplies about half of the world’s jasmine.

Despite claims of zero tolerance for child labour from their parent companies, L'Oréal and Estée Lauder, the investigation highlighted systemic issues in their supply chain auditing processes. These findings were supported by undercover footage and interviews with local pickers, indicating that economic pressures force families to involve their children in jasmine picking to meet low wage demands set by industry conglomerates.

The investigation underscores a significant disconnect between the ethical sourcing promises made by luxury brands and the realities on the ground. Industry insiders argue that the pressure to reduce costs at the top of the supply chain trickles down, leading to low wages and poor working conditions for jasmine pickers.

Despite efforts by fragrance houses and commitments to international human rights standards, the problem persists due to inadequate oversight and flawed auditing systems. The BBC said the situation calls for greater corporate accountability and systemic changes to protect vulnerable workers in the supply chain.

Egypt’s lucrative jasmine trade was estimated at 6.5 million dollars in 2020, providing income to around 50,000 people, according to the International Federation of Essential Oils and Aroma Trades. The BBC estimates this to be around 30,000 workers in 2023. The country’s jasmine industry involves a significant number of child labourers, according to Ahram Online, with estimates suggesting around 1,000 children work in the jasmine fields of Egypt's Gharbiya region, which is the center of the country's jasmine production.

Independent perfumer Christophe Laudamiel Laudamiel told the BBC that leading companies like L'Oréal and Estée Lauder set stringent briefs and extremely tight budgets for the fragrance houses. Their primary goal is to source the cheapest possible oils to maximise their profit margins when selling the final product.

These companies, referred to as "the masters," do not directly control the wages of the harvesters or the price of jasmine itself. However, the budget constraints they impose create downward pressure on wages, affecting the entire supply chain, from factories to the pickers in the fields, said the BBC.