If there was a sense of unease at Louis Vuitton’s first catwalk presentation in Seoul, South Korea, it was the chill that came from the Han River, which flows through the heart of the city. But more likely it was the immersive set on the iconic Jamsugyo Bridge, designed by Hwang Dong-Hyuk, director of Squid Game, that reflected the incredible energy of the metropolis where past, present, and future coexist in harmony.
Guests, which included various K Pop stars, were seated outside, to see the first of Louis Vuitton's pre-fall 2023 presentations. The collection began heavy on leather pieces, with sporty blousons tucked into skirts being the first looks, emphasising a strong and rebellious attitude.
In place of sneakers and heels, tough biker boots were the dominant shoe, giving the impression that Louis Vuitton customers are not one to run away from any situation, but instead will own it. Especially on this windy bridge.
Mr Ghesquière is known for his mastery of retro-futurism, but this collection also included playful nods to anime, the Japanese animation style. Mr Ghesquière often incorporates elements from past eras, such as the 1960s or 1970s, and combines them with futuristic or avant-garde elements. This creates a unique and innovative style that is both nostalgic and forward-thinking, incorporating elements such as metallic fabrics, oversized shoulders, and exaggerated shapes.
The best pieces were more relaxed and less structured, with sensual yet tough layered prairie dresses and some exquisite pleated pieces that demonstrate why Ghesquière remains at the top of the fashion pyramid. The show's stunning location confirms South Korea's importance to luxury sales and LVMH's Asian strategy.