Lylie’s: An e-waste jewellery brand

London - Electronic waste or e-waste, that this technological rubbish is now commonly referred to, is a growing issue and is simultaneously catching the media’s attention at the same rate. The New York Times declared last month that “e-waste offers an economic opportunity as well as toxicity,” due to the rising number of recycling companies being founded, whilst Forbes stunned its audience last year with the prediction that e-waste is to “hit 49.8 million tonnes” by the end of this year.

Written by: Emilie Hill

With a global matter so significant, it can seem near impossible to tackle on a smaller scale. However, some choose to take on this challenge and succeed whilst doing so. Introducing Eliza ‘Lylie’ Walter, the 26-year-old founder of London based women’s and men’s jewellery brand Lylie’s, as it strives to rebel against the industry’s traditional methods of manufacturing because of its troublesome consequences on the environment.

Accessory industry was lacking environmentally aware brands

During speaking to the designer herself, she stressed that she felt the accessory industry was lacking in any environmentally aware brands, as it is reported “only 16 percent of e-waste is being recycled” – a fact that shocks her website’s visitors. To provide a solution, the brand prides itself on using only salvaged metals, which are typically found in discarded devices such as mobile phones, as a primary source.

These metals are then put through a meticulous step by step process, which includes each design being transformed into 3D from sketches, either through carving by hand, or with Computer Aided Design (CAD), as well as 3D printing. The brand's preferred method is wax carving by hand, which can take up to 200 hours per drawing.

Not only does the brand pride itself on this method, but each piece has been awarded a specific hallmark (a mark that has been recognised by the jewellery industry since 1300) to show that the designs have been independently tested. Lylie’s has its own distinctive mark, to acknowledge its use of recycled precious metals, all officiated by the Assay Office. This environmentally aware attitude felt by the founder however, is not something new.

When asked about where this dedication to the carbon footprint stems from, she reminisces about her humble upbringing, “we grew up with sheep and chickens, a compost heap and growing our own veg at home so living a sustainable, conscious life has always been hugely important to me, so when creating a business, I wanted to offer a product that embraced that.”

Her family also encouraged her love for jewellery too, as she never forgets “watching her mother and grandmothers” with well-loved pieces. But it was whilst she was at university, that this passion started to form a serious career.

Walter read History of Art at the University of Bristol and alongside her studies, she set up a jewellery social enterprise called Quail. It sold costume jewellery and was stocked in half a dozen shops around the city, in aid of a local charity called, The Bristol Art Club. Upon graduation, she relocated to London to complete a diploma in London’s jewellery district, Hatton Garden and then continued to work for two Bond Street jewellers to gain a deeper insight into the logistics of the business world.

In time, Walter’s designs finally became wearable as in October 2017, ‘Lylie’s’ was self-funded through savings, the profits of the university jewellery business and through the support of family and friends. Although the brand has not even celebrated its one-year anniversary, it is already familiarising itself with fashion’s selective radar and is gaining momentum through its Instagram following – a visual medium Walter relies on frequently to promote her brand’s ethos and unique designs.

But Walter doesn’t let her creative trait rule the business too much. She has clear strategy planning, despite working full time in the art field, for a contemporary art dealer, which she admitted in a recent interview - she devotes any time she can on her brand. She informs me that, when designing a collection, she finds it helpful to set herself “quite tight parameters.” She begins by writing a brief description of the collection and its inspiration, alongside a muse she is thinking of. She then considers different scales - 1 or 2 statement pieces for editorial, and at least 3 delicate pieces for day to day. She continues to reassure that “a range of prices is important.”

And her price range is affordable considering the brand’s detail in craft. Prices vary from 115 pounds for a pair of earrings, depending on preference of metal and earrings start from an affordable price of 65 pounds.

In terms of future plans for the brand, Walter announced that the company is hoping to open a pop-up shop in October (2019), with central London being its location. But for now, the brand operates online – both in terms of purchase and marketing.

The designer continues to seek advice from two close advisors, one being an asset manager, supporting Walter on shorter and longer term objectives, whilst the other is jewellery designer, Annoushka Ducas MBE, whom founded Links of London, and encourages the creativity side of the brand to continuously thrive through her jewellery expertise.

Photo's courtesy of Lylie' s