MFW SS24: Luxury fabrics and trims
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Fashion
Milan Fashion Week for ss24 ran from September 19 to September 25, 2023. Among the runway shows from storied houses were a few debut performances. The most talked-about being that of Sabato De Sarno at Gucci , where the designer delivered a mostly commercial collection of wearable clothing using a series of luxurious fabrics and trims. It was a theme that ran through the majority of the Milan shows, including leather, shine, sheers and fringe.
1) Like butter
Designers mostly favored smooth leathers for a variety of silhouettes including dresses, coats, skirts and pants.
Aigner: designer, Christian Beck
Look 27: a tan leather dress with a boatneck and ¾ sleeves; an asymmetrically designed skirt with pleats.
Bottega Veneta: designer, Matthieu Blazy
Look 20: a long-sleeved red and tan leather layered dress with a cowl neck and fringes.
Etro: designer, Marco De Vincenzo
Look 9: a form-fitting floor-length black leather skirt with inserts and a center seam, shown with a black devore long sleeved top.
Bally: designer, Simone Bellotti
Look 28: a short red leather coat over a blue top and red and black plaid mini skirt with center ruffle. Accessories included a blue baseball cap, long black boots and a red handbag.
Ferragamo: designer, Maximilian Davis
Look 8: a dark green leather suit with a form-fitting two-button jacket and narrow ankle-length pants. Gold hoop earrings, a patent handbag and brown ankle strap sandals completed the look.
2) Inside Out
The use of sheer fabrics to highlight feminine curves has been a prominent theme running through the collections for ss24, not just in Milan but also the other major fashion cities.
Antonio Marras
Look 8: a draped beige sheer chiffon one-shouldered gown trimmed with black and with a rose design, over a white corset and black underwear.
Dolce & Gabbana
Look 8: a sheer black long-sleeved, full-skirted dress with seams, ove4r thigh-high boots, a black clutch and a black hat with a chiffon scarf.
Alberta Ferretti
Look 29: a white cotton lace long dress with a halter neck and long sleeves and white strappy sandals.
Ermanno Scervino: designers, Ermanno Daelli and Toni Scervino
Look 2: a sheer white floor-length dress with a pin-tucked bodice and a flounce over a sparkling silver bra top and boy-style briefs. A straw bag and white sandals completed the look.
Sportmax
Look 24: a sheer lilac fitted shirt and matching midi skirt with a center seam. Accessories included a silver handheld bag and white sandal- boots.
3) Surface interest
Rendered in gold and silver, many looks glistened and gleamed on the runways of Milanese designers this season.
Genny: designer, Gabriele Colangelo
Look 25: a rose gold colored knit vest with a deep vee front and a matching mid-length skirt. A leather tote bag, belt and sandals in the same color and a gold cuff completed the look.
Elisabetta Franchi
Look 5: a long and narrow silver sequined slip dress with black motorbike boots.
Diesel: designer, Glenn Martens
Look 55: a high-rise leotard and leggings with underwear outlines in a shiny stretch rub off fabric. Accessories included a pink quilted bag and shiny sneakers.
Luisa Beccaria
Look 15: a floor-length silver sequined dress with straps and a self-belt worn with sandals.
Blumarine: designer, Nicola Brognano
Look 1: a strapless bustier with a butterfly and a matching below-the-knee skirt in shiny gold leather, accessorized with two belts, also embellished with butterflies along with earrings and sandals.
4) Fringe festival
Fringe has been by far the most popular trim this season in all the major fashion cities and Milan designers used it liberally as well.
Bottega Veneta: designer, Matthieu Blazy
Look 43: a dress with cut-out shoulders and a woven bodice with two layers of blue and white fringe. Accessories included a white handheld bag and black sandals.
Gucci: designer, Sabato De Sarno
Look 21: an acid green gabardine coat with long sparkling fringe over a grey rib knit shirt and burgundy shorts. Larger gold earrings and burgundy patent point toe pumps accessorized the look.
Philipp Plein
Look 41: a short yellow dress with a deep vee neck embellished with very long fringe. Accessories included a large link chain necklace, a novelty bag and gold platform sandals with an ankle strap.
Tom Ford: designer, Peter Hawkings
Look 8: a strapless mini dress in black with a leather trim and gold clasp embellished with three layers of fringe; accessorized by black cuffs, sunglasses and sandals.
Prada: designers, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons
Look 13: a black shirt with green and white floral printed fringe; grey shorts under a silver metal knee length overlay and two belts. Other accessories included a handheld bag, black socks and lace-up shoes.