Milan Men's Fashion Week round up

Tailoring and elegance took center stage across the men's catwalks of Milan Fashion Week, embodying a central theme vital to the country's fashion DNA and businesses. These elements have consistently delivered sustainable success to Italian brands. In a world experiencing constant flux, the question arises: why change what already works?

Gucci

Sabato De Sarno's debut men's catwalk collection for Gucci sparked divided opinions. The restrained palette of the collection featured stylistic details like choker necklaces and long dandy neck ties, perhaps drawing attention away from any clear vision. In addition to suiting, which featured crossover plackets and contrasting lapels, De Sarno also showcased leather outerwear and logo bags, items that will likely ensure economic success for Kering. Despite some criticism, the true judgment lies in how De Sarno's offerings resonate with shoppers, and during Milan Fashion Week, Gucci's stores were bustling with patrons.

Prada

Prada took a subversive approach in its FW24 collection, focusing on the basic and familiar aspects of fashion. The show, set against a juxtaposition of an office interior and a natural landscape, aimed to reflect the environment and seasons. Prada's emphasis on the necktie, offering a less strict and more intellectual interpretation, highlighted the collection's basic yet casual vibe. Trench coats, colour-block trousers, and sandals contributed to a more relaxed aesthetic.

JW Anderson

JW Anderson's collection this season embraced a new sensibility rooted in reality rather than artistic novelty. Shoppers' demand for less gimmicks and more real clothes was met with fun and realness from Mr. Anderson. The collection, featuring oversized belted trenches and bomber jackets, demonstrated a balanced blend of personality and practicality.

Zegna

Alessandro Sartori's minimalist styling revitalised Zegna, refining its classic roots with precision. The collection, sharp and lean, envisioned a complete system of dressing with versatile pieces encouraging freedom and effortlessness. While some may find the severity of cuts too sharp, the artful layering of wool and cashmere separates showcased Zegna's commitment to modernity and tradition.

Giorgio Armani

In his ninetieth decade, Giorgio Armani's mastery of soft tailoring remains the cornerstone of the brand. This season saw a relaxing of proportions and silhouette, favouring soft, unstructured shoulders and a relaxed fit. The collection's understated luxury, marked by subtle textures and high-quality fabrics, exemplified Armani's enduring balance between contemporary fashion and traditional tailoring.

Setchu

Satoshi Kuwata of Setchu, the 2023 LVMH Prize winner, demonstrated a fresh take on contemporary elegance, drawing from his Savile Row experience. The collection delivered sophistication without being overly formal, featuring pieces that zipped, layered, and tied together seamlessly.

DSquared2

The DSquared twins, Dean and Dan Caten, brought their signature high-octane energy to Milan Fashion Week. While the showmanship tends to overshadow depth in the collections, their futuristic pod showcased models transitioning from one side to the other in full glam. Dean Caten's appearance in full drag to George Michael's "Freedom 90" track added a touch of humour to the vibrant presentation.

Fendi

Silvia Venturini Fendi described the collection as a juxtaposition of town and country, emphasizing the dialogue between urban and bucolic elements, tradition, and technology. The outerwear propositions featured blouson jackets and peacoats in blanket wools, shearling and the softest leather. Fendi introduced innovative collaborations, including a Fendi x Devialet Mania portable speaker and updates to the Peekaboo bag, showcasing the brand's commitment to blending heritage with contemporary flair.