New Gucci campaign features all black models

As the aspirational world of British Vogue is about to be led (or shocked) by its first black, male and gay editor-in-chief, Mr Edward Enninful, the buzzword that has become 'diversity' will finally have some depth and meaning.

Diversity has been a conversation that hasn't particularly resonated in the fashion industry, much like inclusivity, agism and body diversity. But it is the luxury houses and their casting directors who choose to predominantly use Caucasian models in their campaigns and on the runways. Of course they will fill the catwalk gap with an Asian model here, a black face there, and something mixed in between. But many casting directors, when prompted to consider a second black girl for a lineup, will retort 'we already have our black girl in the show.'

"Too much ink on the page"

The same applies to magazine editorials and covers, who blatantly feature mostly white girls. One fashion editor of British publication Harper's Bazaar commented on a poorly selling issue featuring a young black Naomi Campbell on the cover, that it was due to 'too much ink on the page.' Fashion is by no means innocent of racism and all that it implies.

Gucci was one of the brands last season singled out for its uniform casting of white models. Perhaps that is why with its latest campaign – a tribute to Northern Soul featuring an all-black model cast - that it aims to tell the world it is a brand that embraces all ethnicities, and thus all customers.

The images from the campaign were inspired by the Made You Look exhibition at the Photographer’s Gallery in 2016, an exploration of black masculinity and Dandyism. According to Dazed Digital they were further influenced by iconic 60s photographer Malick Sidibé, renowned for his black and white studio portraits in Mali, as well as Northern Soul, a 60s movement inspired by black American soul music that made clubs like the Wigan Casino famous. Featuring dancers as well as models, they pull moves true to the splits and backdrops associated with the subculture’s dance style.

Photographed by Glen Luchford and called ‘Soul Scene,' the campaign features no Caucasian models and none of the faces we have come to associate with the Florentine fashion house.

Next up for Gucci will be its Cruise show in Florence on May 29th at the Palatine Gallery in Pitti Palace. Let's wait and see if it will embrace diversity as it has with its campaign.

Photo credit: Gucci AW17 campaign photographed by Glen Luchford