New York FW24– Key Colors and Fabrics: red, brown and lots of fluff
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Fashion
New York Fashion Week for FW24 ran from Thursday, February 9 through Wednesday, February 14 with 50 designers participating. Despite strong competition for viral social media time from The Super Bowl LVIII, NYFW held its own. Arguably, the most talked about show was Raul Lopez’s ‘metrosexual’ show for Luar.
Beyoncé sat front row with mother Tina and sister Solange to watch nephew "Julez" Smith Jr.'s runway debut. Collina Strada and Christian Cowen both celebrated diversity and Puma transformed Grand Central into a futuristic amusement park.
When it came to the old guard, most returned to their roots. Tommy Hilfiger showed his collection of classic preppy looks in Grand Central’s Oyster Bar. Thom Browne came back to NYFW with a show at ‘The Shed,’ inspired by Edgar Allen Poe’s ‘The Raven.’ As for Michael Kors, he utilized a legendary location, the original Barney’s store in Chelsea, Colors tended to be muted, with the exception of bright red, and fabric trends were focused on texture and surface interest.
Lady in Red
In a week that mostly lacked bright color, saturated shades of red were seen in many collections. In a series of looks that ranged from tailored separates to eveningwear, it represented female power and strength. Pantone had predicted that this particular hue would be seen during NYFW FW24 stating that, “PANTONE 19-1558 ‘Scarlet Smile’ is a glamorous and decadent red that captures our desire.”
Badgley Mischka
Look 26: a full-length fitted red crepe coat dress with self-belt; opera-length red leather gloves and a red satin clutch.
Negris LeBrum
Look 7: a red ostrich leather two-piece suit with a one-button jacket and straight leg pants.
Prabal Gurung
Look 1: a full-length red evening coat over a red turtle-neck and a shiny skirt with red leather long gloves, a red skullcap and point-toe shoes.
Sandy Liang
Look 29: a tailored red wool coat with tortoise buttons over a zip-up jacket and mini skirt. Black round toed boots with a bow detail completed the look.
Carolina Herrera: designer, Wes Gordon
Look 1: a dress with a red mock turtle-neck top and a black satin asymmetric skirt over black skinny pants and red patent point toe flats.
Coffee Break
‘Latte dressing’ continues to resonate as a chic alternative to black. Shades of brown colored a variety of garments including puffers, leather jackets, dresses and tailored separates.
Fforme: designer, Paul Helber
Look 24: a brown puffer jacket over a brown knit top and pants with a brown knit skullcap and brown ballet flats.
Helmut Lang: designer, Peter Do
Look 18: a two-button tailored brown blazer with matching culottes; a brown oversized tote and brown knee boots finished the look.
Michael Kors Collection
Look 41: a shiny brown leather jacket with surface effects with a shearling collar and a matching knee-length skirt. Accessories included brown point toe shoes, a tiny satchel and tortoiseshell sunglasses.
Ludovic de Saint Sernin
Look 21: a brown leather bomber jacket and a matching skirt with silver grommets, plus brown hose and brown pumps.
Luar: designer Raul Lopez
Look 7: a brown wool turtle-neck dress with broad shoulders, brown shiny boots and an oversized bronze-colored tote.
Gender Reveals
In recent seasons using classic plaid and bouclé has gone from strength to strength, signaling as it does, the current mood for gender fluidity. It showed up in a variety of styles with both masculine and feminine influences.
Kobi Halperin
Look 36: a charcoal wool coat over pinstripe separates that included a jacket, pants and a bustier.
Michael Kors
Look 44: a double-breasted fitted long line jacket in brown and cream plaid and a knee-length skirt with a split; accessorized by a skinny belt, tiny satchel and brown patent pumps.
Monse: designers, Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia
Look 4: a grey/brown floor length tweed coat with a brown suede collar, over a matching vest, deep vee navy sweater and blue and white striped shirt. Strappy sandals finished the look.
Retrofete: designer, Ohad Seroya
Look 1: a Prince of Wales check floor-length coat over a matching double-breasted blazer and a mini skirt. Accessories included a black valise and pumps.
The Salting: designers, Michael Ward and Michael Smaldonem
Look 3: a cropped bouclé jacket in black and white plaid with matching drawstring-waist shorts, a white shirt and tie and black hose, socks and black boots.
Thom Browne
Look 14: a wide collared black, grey and white tweed plaid coat over contrasting plaid layers. Accessories included a net covered hat, black tie and clear zip-up booties.
Knit Wit
Cocooning was a big theme running through the week and designers showed a variety of head-to-toe cozy knit looks.
Aknvas: Christian Juul Nielsen
Look 1: a pale lavender cable knit oversized sweater embellished with pompoms and matching pants.
Bibhu Mohapatra
Look 7: a cream-colored cable-knit maxi dress with an oversized scarf. Other accessories included an extra-wide leather belt and an embellished green beret.
3.1 Phillip Lim
Look 22: a space-dyed knit dress in green, blue and white with a polo collar over matching pants.
Alejandra Alonso Rojas
Look 13: a cream pointelle knit tight dress and cream leather boots.
Ulla Johnson
Look 40: a maxi dress in bands of purple, ochre and cream-colored fair-isle knit with a matching sweater. Burgundy Mary-Janes and ochre socks finished the look.
Fur Sure
Again, the cocoon theme drove this fabric trend with many designers showing fluffy textures for outerwear, often in winter white or blond colorations.
Gabriela Hearst
Look 11: a shaggy knit cream-colored coat over a matching dress and black boots.
Sally Lapointe
Look 4: a faux fur short coat, marabou feather bolero over a sheer knit top, short shorts, white hose and beige boots.
Puppets & Puppets: designer, Carly Mark
Look 3: a natural colored faux fur coat over green satin pants and a blue leather bag.
Proenza Schouler: designers, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez
Look 12: a cream-colored coat in short faux fur in a midi-length with white boots and red satchel.
Ulla Johnson
Look 41: a cream-colored marabou feather coat with a shoestring tie belt and grey suede boots.