The Paris shows put the playfulness back into Fashion Week with youth cultures and the world of art inspiring a wave of creativity and bold statements. Modern art references provided colourful vibrancy with meaning as designers continued to explore and push gender boundaries, reassess notions of femininity and remain true to their sustainable principles and practices.
Jonathan Anderson’s latest Loewe outing was a riot of surrealism and outlandish fun. Referencing the work of the art movement’s famous names, unexpected combinations of moulded latex and shearling, sheers, and woollens, were accented with quirky details and novel footwear ideas. Moulded balloon shaped accents peeped out from dresses and shoe straps, toy cars appeared inside hemlines and drawstring, galosh-like boots swallowed up the model’s feet in a display that blended high art with playful eccentricity.
The work of Frank Stella provided the inspiration for Stella McCartney. McCartney collaborated with the artist bringing his brand of straight-lined minimalism-meets-expressive femininity into her clean silhouettes. Titled Stella by Stella, monochrome zigzags, dissected prints, and distorted pinstripes were applied to the designer’s Fur Free Fur, trouser suits, and knits. Vibrant pastel hues, ruching, fringing, and drapery, and plush satins or velvets, introduced a more feminine feel, tempered by masculine tailoring. Grape skin handbags and Mylo mushroom leather goods, reinforced McCartney’s continued commitment to sustainability.
Rounding out Paris Fashion Week, Miuccia Prada set her sights on the sporting world, with an athletic infused collection aimed at upending traditional dress codes. Short, low slung skirts and tees with lace panel inserts were teamed with knitted ballerina socks and a variety of leather pieces that brought out the label’s rebellious side. Youthful and playful with references to the pastimes of her childhood, Prada continued her reconfiguration of classic womenswear silhouettes, blending oversized blazers with mini dresses and masculine elements with lingerie-inspired looks.
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