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PFW SS24 key items: tailored separates, flirty skirts and more

By Jayne Mountford


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PFW SS24 key items/main photo Credits: PFW SS24 key items/Launchmetrics Spotlight

Fashion Week in Paris was held between September 26 and October 3, 2023 with around 140 brands showing their collections for the spring/summer 2024 season. When it came to essential items for store buyers to review, it was a case of ‘minimalism versus maximalism’ so varied were the choices. Here are five of the most important silhouettes.


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1) The oversized jacket

The popularity with consumers of the ‘quiet luxury’ trend was clear for all to see this season. Tailored separates took center stage in all of the major fashion cities, none more prevalent in Paris than the oversized suit jacket.

Carven: designer, Louise Trotter

Carven ss24/ look 6 Credits: Carven ss24/Launchmetrics Spotlight

Look 6: an oversized lightweight wool one-button jacket with broad shoulders over a matching top, and a sheer below-the-knee skirt. Accessories included a red pendant on a leather thong and nude blunt toe slippers.

Dries Van Noten

Dries van Noten ss24/ look 14 Credits: Dries van Noten ss24/Launchmetrics Spotlight

Look 14: an oversized double-breasted tan jacket with four patch pockets over matching Bermuda shorts, accessorized with patterned socks, houndstooth lace-up shoes with a curved heel.

Gauchere: designer, Marie-Christine Statz

Gauchere ss24/ look 1 Credits: Gauchere ss24/Launchmetrics Spotlight

Look 1: a black oversized thigh-length blazer over a nude and white double turtle-neck top and black leather mini-skirt with black accessories.

Givenchy: designer, Matthew M. Williams

Givenchy ss24/ look 13 Credits: Givenchy ss24/Launchmetrics Spotlight

Look 13: an oversized double-breasted pastel jacket over a cream blouse and long brown satin skirt. A cream clutch, yellow hose and shoes completed the look.

Stella McCartney

Stella McCartney ss24/ look 44 Credits: Stella McCartney ss24/Launchmetrics Spotlight

Look 44: a pale blue oversized shawl collared one button jacket with matching overlong pants, lilac lace-up flats and a small diamante covered mini bag with a long fringe at Stella McCartney .

2) The Trench Coat

The prevalence of classic looking trench coats in Paris was another example of how the ‘quiet luxury trend’ has captured the imagination of the ready-to-wear consumer. Mostly they were rendered in the same waterproofed cotton gabardine originally developed by Thomas Burberry.

Maison Margiela: designer, John Galliano

Maison Margiela ss24/ look 8 Credits: Maison Margiela ss24/Launchmetrics Spotlight

Look 8: a taupe colored trench coat with a one-button closure and a self-belt shown over a white blouse with print cuffs.

Saint Laurent: designer, Anthony Vaccarello

Saint Laurent ss24/ look 43 Credits: Saint Laurent ss24/Launchmetrics Spotlight

Look 43: a double-breasted khaki trench coat with a standup collar featuring a belt and buckle, a storm flap, epaulets and tortoiseshell buttons. It was shown over a black suit and brown belt.

Dries van Noten

Dries van Noten ss24/ look 7 Credits: Dries van Noten ss24/Launchmetrics Spotlight

Look 7: a floor-length double-breasted khaki trench coat with a storm flap and tortoiseshell buttons, shown over a striped shirt and patterned leotard. Accessories included socks with a geometric pattern and suede athletic shoes.

Balenciaga: designer, Demna

Balenciaga ss24/ look 3 Credits: Balenciaga ss24/Launchmetrics Spotlight

Look 3: a classically designed trench coat with a rounded collar and storm flaps, in two shades of light beige. A black handbag with a keychain made up of padlocks, black hose and pumps completed the look.

Christian Dior: designer, Maria Grazia Chiuri

Dior ss24/ look 32 Credits: Dior ss24/Launchmetrics Spotlight

Look 32: a double-breasted trench coat with a back belt, a storm flap, epaulets, belted cuffs and an embroidered version of the Dior bee. It was shown with a tan colored handbag and strappy black flats with pearl closures.

3) The flirty skirt

Short, layered and ruffled skirts reminiscent of the ‘80’s ‘ra ra’ skirt, styled in a variety of different ways, showed up on several runways.

Vaquera, designers, Patric DiCaprio and Bryn Taubensee

Vaquera ss24/ look 65 Credits: Vaquera ss24/Launchmetrics Spotlight

Look 65: a black two layered ruffled mini skirt with a vee panel front teamed with a cropped bomber jacket in olive khaki and matching bra top. Accessories included a white beret and slippers.

Miu Miu, designer, Miuccia Prada

Miu Miu ss24/ look 4 Credits: Miu Miu ss24/Launchmetrics Spotlight

Look 4: a micro-mini skirt of white multi-layers with a blue stretch waistband and white lace-up tie. The rest of the outfit consisted of a blue check shirt, navy sweater and crested blazer. Accessories included aviator glasses and thong sandals.

Loewe, designer, Jonathan Anderson

Loewe ss24/ look 20 Credits: Loewe ss24/Launchmetrics Spotlight

Look 20: a black layered mini skirt with a long, ruffled train and a brown plaid shirt under a beige vee neck sweater. Accessories included a black snakeskin hobo bag, and black thong platform sandals.

Az Factory: designers, Norman René Devera and Peter Movrin

AZ Factory ss24/ look 5 Credits: AZ Factory ss24/Launchmetrics Spotlight

Look 5: a short, layered skirt with a flat daisy print on a pink background and a matching button-down shirt with white cuffs. Black marabou trimmed slippers completed the look.

Balmain, designer, Oliver Rousteing

Balmain ss24/ look 12 Credits: Balmain ss24/Launchmetrics Spotlight

Look 12: a pink multi-pleated two layered short skirt under a bright green double-breasted blazer with gold buttons, mismatched earrings and blue patent blunt toe slippers.

4) The bra top and skirt combination

A bra top matched to a skirt is another favorite from the 1980s. Fabrics ranged from chiffon and silk to leather and lace.

Elie Saab

Elie Saab ss24/ look 37 Credits: Elie Saab ss24/Launchmetrics Spotlight

Look 37: a coral-colored lace bra over a green turquoise one and a matching double layered lace ankle-length skirt with red ankle strap platform sandals and a woven straw handheld bag.

Hermès: designer, Nadège Vanhee

Hermes ss24/ look 23 Credits: Hermes ss24/Launchmetrics Spotlight

Look 23: a brown ribbed bralette with trim and a matching skirt with detachable waistband. Accessories included large hoop earrings, brown hobo bag and brown sandals.

Ottolinger: designers, Christa Bösch and Cosima Gadient

Ottolinger ss24/ look 40 Credits: Ottolinger ss24/Launchmetrics Spotlight

Look 40: a black bandeau top and matching briefs under a deconstructed white lace skirt with black and white ribbon ties and silver sparkling flip flops.

Rick Owens

Rick Owens ss24/ look 11 Credits: Rick Owens ss24/Launchmetrics Spotlight

Look 11: a narrow black bralette and high-waisted black leather skirt, tight-fitting to the knee and then with a flare.

Giambattista Valli

Giambattista Valli ss24/ look 41 Credits: Giambattista Valli ss24/Launchmetrics Spotlight

Look 41: a white bra with diamante straps and body-jewelry to match with a sheer heavily embroidered skirt. Embellished silver sandals completed the look.

5) The balloon sleeves

Adding balloon sleeves to a variety of different silhouettes was an off-shoot of the maximalist trend.

CFCL: designer, Yusuke Takahashi

Cfcl ss24/ look 5 Credits: Cfcl ss24/Launchmetrics Spotlight

Look 5: a black below-the-knee dress in a variegated rib-knit with balloon sleeves over a silver lurex knit, a black bucket hat and black strappy sandals.

Chloé: designer, Gabriela Hearst

Chloé ss24/ look 23 Credits: Chloé ss24/Launchmetrics Spotlight

Look 23: a mid-length silver leather fitted dress with a deep vee front and big balloon sleeves. Accessories included a large silver pendant and white strappy sandals.

Cecilie Bahn

Cecilie Bahnsen/ look 19 Credits: Cecilie Bahnsen/Launchmetrics Spotlight

Look 19: a short dress in a large sized pink and white gingham check with a balloon hem, ruffled embellishments and balloon sleeves. Black socks and flats finished the look.

Louis Vuitton: designer, Nicolas Ghesquière

Louis Vuitton ss24/ look 14 Credits: Louis Vuitton ss24/Launchmetrics Spotlight

Look 14 : a satin finish plaid blouse with a rolled neck, balloon sleeves and a reworked logo, over straight jeans, an oversized belt and black bag.

Sacai: designer, Chitose Abe

Sacai ss24/ look 25 Credits: Sacai ss24/Launchmetrics Spotlight

Look 25: a thick knit sweater in a green, brown and blue fair-isle pattern with balloon sleeves over a sheer knee-length skirt, sheer socks and ankle boots.