Phillip Plein shakes up NYFW, but not in a good way

German designer Philipp Plein on Monday boldly stated he would "make New York Fashion Week great again." The Trump-borrowed slogan has been incessantly used since the election campaign, with Plein hoping to gain some traction in the US market where despite operating stores he remains virtually unknown.

That is why Plein quit Milan fashion week to show in New York, workingly alongside renowned stylist and former French Vogue editor Carine Roitfeld to style his AW17 collection, and build notoriety amongst the fickle fashion press. Filling his front row with celebrities including Madonna and Kylie Jenner was a clever marketing tactic, although most consumers are aware by now these seats are mostly subsidised.

The fashion press, as you may have guessed, didn't take to the brand, no matter how high octane and expensive the shows.

The problem with Plein's collection is that it is rather trashy. The New York Times dubbed it 'self indulgent' and 'terrible taste.' And they were being nice. How else to explain brash graphic sportswear for men, diamanté, studded and bedazzled dresses for women, thigh-high boots, tiny shorts and rapper parkas. You'd be hard-pressed to find a look considered in good taste, despite Mrs Roitfeld at the styling helm. Ultimately she can only work with what she is given.

Plein stated it was time for the brand to enter the American market: “I tried to avoid it for a very long time because the American market is very developed and the consumer is very spoiled,” he told the New York times. “Markets like Russia and China are much more open to new brands and much easier to enter. They’re hungry to consume.”

Still, there has always been a market for bold, brash fashion, even if it is dubbed as bad taste. America is no exception. Mr Plein is the head of a 300 million dollar empire, a success by any standard of measurement, whether you're partial to his particular brand of garments or not.

Photo credit: Philipp Plein AW17, source: Philipp-Plein.com