Phoebe Philo drops first collection online

Phoebe Philo unveiled the first drop of her new collection on the brand's e-commerce site on Monday. The British designer, whose collections spoke of quiet luxury long before it became a fashion byword, first announced the launch of her namesake label in July 2021. Last month, a newsletter to subscribers revealed initial campaign images and the e-store's launch date.

Backed by LVMH, Phoebe Philo's first collection since her departure from Celine six years ago debuts with a capsule wardrobe spanning ready-to-wear and accessories. In its impact statement, the brand said its proposition is a contained, seasonless offer, focused on high-quality materials and craftsmanship, and designs that maintain relevance over time.

Within hours of the launch, much of the collection had been sold out, with some products available to pre-order and others to be made available with its second drop. The much-loved hold-all Philo introduced at Celine is back in a new iteration, called the Caban, and is available in leather and suede. An XL version retails for 6,800 euros.

Elsewhere, Ms. Philo's unique handwriting is visible throughout the tightly edited collection, which shows her knack for creating an everyday wardrobe for modern women that is equally elevated and practical. Yet for her own brand there is a strong nod to a raw, more brutalist style across the 150-piece collection. There is humour too, with a necklace and bracelet spelling the word MUM.

Entry price points are for items such as sunglasses and jewelry, which start at 450 euros. A hand-tufted viscose coat is presumably the collection's most expensive item, with the price not published and a button linking to contact client services.

Strategy

At Celine, Philo was notoriously late to embrace e-commerce, focusing on the brand's own physical retail and wholesale channels. For her namesake launch Philo has decidedly embraced DTC technology, and despite the investment of LVMH, there are no physical stores nor wholesale accounts.

The company will have fewer operational costs without a network of boutiques, and margins for luxury are typically high in direct-to-consumer sales. Shipping is currently limited to the UK, US, and European markets.

The website design is a no-fuss, minimalist outline with a black background, with products displayed in a grid of three, photographed only on models. There are no flat ‘packshots’ of garments other than accessories or a sleeve detail. On the desktop version, an "add to bag" button hovers over the product, a design feature that was also implemented on the new Gucci website. The feature allows for multiple images to be viewed, instead of having descriptions fill up half the screen.

Two further deliveries are expected by the end of the year, although the brand has not published exact dates of its releases. Whereas streetwear label Supreme was a master in dropping new products, availability at Phoebe Philo will remain considerably less than consumer demand. With much of its first collection drop sold out, anticipation for Philo's clothes has remained unprecedentedly high. Despite the six-year absence, it has made her follower’s wardrobes long for more.