- Barbara Russ |
Menswear fashion show Pitti Uomo ended last week in Florence. In midsummer temperatures and bathed in the breathtaking light of the Tuscan sun, well dressed men in suits or expertly composed sportswear outfits lined up like pearls on a rosary - some obviously posing, some looking very busy on their mobile phones - but always 'picture perfect'. One could almost say it is a little strange how the men there turned into peacocks but one thing is crystal clear: The stage in Florence belongs only to the gentlemen.
While international men's fashion weeks have to struggle everywhere else, the Pitti is very popular. More and more fashion shows are leaving the traditional Milan stage to 'happen' in Florence - one can only speculate why. This season, Ferragamo showed his menswear SS 2020 show there; Luisaviaroma staged a "blockbuster fashion show" (according to WWD) together with Carine Roitfeld; Sterling Ruby was the special guest with his S.R. Studio. LA. CA. collection; Givenchy presented his mens’ ready-to-wear as guest designer and MSGM celebrated its tenth anniversary with a fashion show in Florence as well. Not all exhibitors like this as the many shows distract from the actual fair or so it could be heard in some quarters. On the other hand, they do attract additional press and buyers to the city. Ruby Sterling confirms that Pitti Uomo really has an international appeal today: "Pitti has a special place in the world of fashion. It has established itself as an important centre with a unique identity without compromise - a place of craftsmanship, a place with its own time," said the artist about choosing this location for his first fashion show.
Supporting designers: timing is everything
Timing is important. That is why, as one can see everywhere, Italy campaigns for young talents - whether at the Altaroma, which supports the Italian Vogue’s "Who is on Next" competition, at the shows in Milan or at the International Talent Support in Trieste, which takes place in July. And many young designers are also invited to Pitti - and not just the country’s own: China was chosen as the host country for this edition. "Guest Nation is one of the leading initiatives of the Fondazione Pitti Immagine Discovery to find new designers with a high creativity factor in today's fashion world," says Lapo Cianchi, secretary general of the Fondazione and director of communications and special projects at Pitti Immagine. "China has become one of the most fertile and dynamic areas for fashion experimentation on a global level: This is why, together with the renowned partners who have accompanied us on this project, we have decided to present eleven of China's most innovative brands to buyers and the international press and to get to know their distinctive style.”
Among those sponsored is Danshan, an up-and-coming men's fashion brand consisting of Chinese designer Dan and Hong Kong designer Shan. After graduating from Central Saint Martins in 2012, the two worked in the fashion industry for some time before founding their own brand. Danshan presents itself as a personal discussion of the development of today's gender dynamics and the personal relationship of both to fashion - the pieces shown are gender ambiguous and seek to regain a new sensibility for men, which is still off-limits because of repressive masculinity ideals today. With this goal in mind and their successful designs, the designers also managed to be accepted into the Sarabande Foundation of late designer Lee Alexander McQueen, which financially supports artists and designers, among them Molly Goddard.
Closed X Societé Anonyme
The Florentine concept store has teamed up with jeans experts from Hamburg-based fashion brand Closed. The collection, which was presented in the store, contained 28 pieces from Closed's archive, which were reinterpreted. Various denim models from the ‘80s and the classic Pedal Pusher model with its iconic X pockets were reissued. Additional silhouettes and pieces in the shop’s iconic mint green colour completed the capsule collection.
50 years of Moon Boots - first summer collection
Celebrating its 50th anniversary, the Moon Boot company looked into the future and presented the first spring/summer shoe collection in its history exclusively at the Pitti Uomo 96. However, the four new models, which contradict the brand's apparent iconic winter nature, have been designed in such a way that they remain true to the familiar style. The typical cross lacing, the classic thick sole and the logo ribbon have been retained. It remains to be seen whether the rather alien-looking models will be successful at the POS.
This article was originally published on FashionUnited DE; edited and translated by Simone Preuss.
Photos: cover image: Pitti Uomo, Pitti People, Enrico Labriola; Moon Boot: FashionUnited