Pre-Fall 25 RTW – The Pencil Shape - a new silhouette for skirts and dresses
By Jayne Mountford
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Christian Dior is credited with designing the ‘pencil’ skirt which he introduced in his 1954 Autumn /Winter collection.
Its origins can be traced back to the ‘hobble skirt’, a full-length skirt with a narrow hem that was popular before World War I. It was inspired by Edith Berg, the first woman to fly on an airplane. Berg wore a long skirt with a cord tied around her ankles to keep it from getting caught in the plane's machinery.
Skirt hemlines were for a long time associated with the stock market.
The ‘hemline index’ is a theory that suggests that skirt lengths rise or fall along with stock prices. The most common version of the theory was that skirt lengths got shorter in good economic times and longer in bad.
These days there is seemingly no correlation between the two. In fact, both short and long skirts are on trend for the foreseeable future.
However, for Pre-Fall 2025, several designers showed straight and narrow mid-to-maxi-length skirts and dresses that had a feminine and somewhat vintage look. Here are ten of the best.
Erdem, designer, Erdem Moralioglu
Look 8: a long, sleeveless satin shift dress in a pink and green ombré with a black squiggle print. Flat ivory slingbacks had an oversized bow embellishment.Carolina Herrera: designer, Wes Gordon
Look 38: a black two layered chiffon skirt with rhinestone embellishments and a black short sleeved black knit polo. Black slingbacks had a rhinestone bow.Hervé Leger: designer, Michelle Ochs
Look 18: an ankle-length pink dress with cutaway shoulders and ‘bandage’ details was shown with black patent sling-backs.Daniella Kallmeyer
Look 1: a long ivory satin skirt with no waistband and a cropped black jacket with black flat thong sandals.Monique L’huillier
Look 3: a cream-colored pointelle knit skirt with patch pockets and black floral buttons had a matching cropped sweater. Black boots, satchel and sunglasses finished the look.
Loveshackfancy: designer, Rebecca Hessel Cohen
Look 12: a long narrow pink and white check skirt with no waistband had a matching bra top. Accessories included pink platform sandals.Markarian: designer, Ali O’Neill
Look 22: a long two layered chiffon skirt in pale blue, and a cream-colored knit sweater with diamante embellishments. Ankle-strap wedge sandals completed the look.Max Mara: designer, Ian Griffiths
Look 16: a mid-length black skirt with a white fitted jacket. Accessories included a black leather belt and black slingbacks.Ferrari: designer, Rocco Iannone
Look 21: a one-shouldered long dress in a brown and taupe check cotton with an ombré effect. Silver jewelry and blue sandals finished the look.Victoria Beckham
Look 6: a light brown knit top with long sleeves and a hood with a matching vest was shown with a wool pencil skirt in the same color with a button -through back. A natural colored suede tote, light brown hose and pumps accessorized the look.FW25
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