Runway to retail: balaclavas

Tracing the trend

The name comes from their use at the Battle of Balaclava during the Crimean War of 1854, referring to the town near Sevastopol in the Crimea. Handmade balaclavas were sent over to the British troops to help protect them from the bitter cold weather. Hence, for decades, balaclavas were associated with the military and para military organizations. At some point, wearing a balaclava became a statement of protest à la the Russian activist group Pussy Riot.

Kanye West: a balaclava pioneer!

Kanye West was arguably the first major celebrity to don the balaclava back in 2013; it's thought that his version was a ‘do-it-yourself affair’, a slashed red beanie created to avoid being 'papped' at Paris Fashion Week. He was quickly followed by other A-listers including Beyoncé and Justine Bieber who recognized the advantages of hiding the face from the photographers' glare.

Raf Simons elevates the balaclava

However, it was during the fw18 collections that balaclavas first made a fashion statement. It was Raf Simons' third season designing for Calvin Klein (aka Calvin Klein 204W39NYC) and in a prescient move, showed a collection made for a dystopian future. Inspired by the film 'Safe,' in which Julianne Moore's character is inflicted with numerous environmental illnesses, Simons filled the show with protective gear, accessorized with knitted balaclavas. That season, Gucci, Marni, Preen by Thornton Bregazzi and Dior all showed hoods and balaclavas. The trend has continued to resonate on the runways every season since for both men and women. For fw21 Miu Miu’s version made a major statement rendered in heavy gauge knit with detachable face guard and matching scarf.

Balaclavas go viral on Tiktok

Since then, the widespread appearance of balaclavas and hoods on social media platforms, particularly selfies on Instagram and videos on Tiktok, helped to cement the trend in the mass market. An upsurge in fashion/skiwear collaborations and the realization that your anti-Covid mask also kept your face warm in winter, created the perfect storm.

Where to shop for balaclavas

At the retail level high end designers are showing a variety of styles. From Maison Margiela, A cotton/wool mix balaclava with a Fair Isle inspired pattern.

Stella Mccartney’s version is rendered in wool with an abstract intarsia pattern..

..and from Loro Piano, a cashmere balaclava with a geometric motif.

Contemporary brand Kule sells a variety of balaclavas in either a cotton/wool mix or in cashmere.

The trend for balaclavas shows no signs of slowing down; so expect to see them during the current fw22 season.