Tackling textile waste is a growing environmental challenge

The surge in textile waste across the United States, driven in part by the rapid expansion of the "fast fashion" industry, has emerged as a significant environmental issue over the past two decades. From discarded clothing to household items such as carpets, towels, and footwear, the proliferation of textile waste contributes to greenhouse gas emissions and contamination of soil and water as these materials break down in landfills. According to data from the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), the volume of textile waste increased by more than 50 percent between 2000 and 2018.

This rise is attributed to several factors, including the shift towards high-turnover fashion models, limited infrastructure for textile collection and sorting, and the slow development of recycling technologies. Despite growing awareness, options for donating, repurposing, or repairing textiles remain underutilized, with the majority of used materials ultimately entering municipal waste streams.

Federal efforts and opportunities for collaboration

Federal agencies have begun to respond to the issue. The National Institute of Standards and Technology (NIST), for example, hosted a 2021 workshop that convened stakeholders from industry, academia, and government to explore solutions for reducing textile waste. The EPA has announced plans to create a national textile recycling strategy within the next decade, while the Department of State has facilitated discussions on extending the life cycle of products through an informal interagency group.

However, as the Government Accountability Office (GAO) has found, these efforts are fragmented and often treated as secondary priorities. Individual agencies are pursuing initiatives that align with their specific mandates and expertise, but interagency collaboration remains underdeveloped. In 2022, preliminary steps were taken to formalize a collaborative framework, but these efforts have since stalled.

The GAO highlights significant opportunities for interagency cooperation that could enhance the effectiveness of federal efforts. Coordinated action could leverage existing resources, minimize duplication, and accelerate progress in reducing textile waste and advancing recycling technologies.

Recommendations and the path forward

To address the growing challenge, the GAO has recommended that Congress provide explicit guidance to a federal entity (or entities) to coordinate efforts on textile waste reduction and recycling. Additionally, the report includes seven specific recommendations directed at six federal agencies. These include establishing an interagency mechanism grounded in best practices for collaboration.

While one entity expressed reservations about formalizing such a mechanism, the GAO maintains that its recommendations are essential for addressing the scale of the problem effectively.

A call to action

As the U.S. grapples with the environmental and economic implications of its mounting textile waste, the need for a cohesive, national strategy has become increasingly urgent. By prioritizing collaboration and innovation, federal agencies have the potential to transform how textiles are managed—from linear waste streams to circular systems that emphasize reuse and recycling.

For now, the onus remains on both policymakers and the private sector to align on solutions that not only mitigate environmental damage but also set the foundation for a more sustainable future in the apparel and textile industries.