The global menswear fashion season is canceled, what next?

It was only two weeks ago that Pitti Uomo announed it was planning to go ahead with its June instalment of the Florentine tradeshow. As we have come to witness, a lot can happen in a fortnight. In a statement with the hashtag #pittilooksahead, the menswear exhibition said it was working hard to open next June’s fairs on the dates announced, in addition to updating its digital platform. But this looks likely to change, as Milan has canceled its men’s fashion week, as did London, Paris and New York. Which company will send its buyers to travel to Florence early June?

The European menswear season is canceled

The Covid-19 pandemic has officially upended the entire menswear SS21 fashion calendar. The first to propose an alternative is the National Chamber of Italian Fashion (CNMI) which stated the Milano Moda Uomo fashion shows and presentations, originally scheduled for June 19-23, 2020, will be added to those of the Milano Moda Donna edition scheduled for September 22-28.

The Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode last week announced Paris men’s fashion week that was planned from June 23-28 would also be cancelled, however a new date or format is yet to be announced.

The runway goes digital

The CNMI said it aims to introduce new B2B and B2C digital formats for on-schedule shows to support brands, luxury companies and industry. “We are working on new digital formats and in order to create a new storytelling on the days originally scheduled for the Milan Men’s Fashion Week. We are aware that great efforts will be made in order to have the new collections ready by June to start an innovative selling campaign. The 800 Milan show rooms will have an active part in this new storytelling.”

The British Fashion Council also announced it would cancel men’s fashion week 13 to 15 June, and is expected to made a formal statement by the end of the week regarding a digital alternative and possible merging with its women’s calendar.

Whilst the European menswear calendar remains in flux, designers and brands are turning to their showrooms and sales directors for crucial advice. Will buyers still travel in June? Should collections be ready as per the original buying calendar? How will collections be sold if they can’t be seen in person? Will investment in digital wholesale platforms like Ordre and Joor be necessary? How should brands budget for the SS21 season?

While China is slowly resuming operations, the cities of Milan, Paris and London are at different stages in the pandemic. Fashion weeks and sales campaigns will depend on local governments and rules concerning public events and group activities.

The BFC said in an email statement to its members: “We are aware that many businesses won’t have collections in June and those that do will be anticipating significantly reduced orders and therefore investment in shows may not be a consideration. Our hope is this new format will also address the practical and logistical challenges we anticipate designers who wish to showcase might be facing in light of Covid-19, being reduced collections, models not being able to travel or social distancing at venues.”

Impact on small businesses

Emerging designers and small and medium businesses are amongst the companies that will be most affected. Brands planning to launch in 2020 may have to consider to go to market in 2021, as this year turns out to be an annus horribilis for fashion.

Image Xander Zhou via London Fashion Week Mens website