The pursuit of greener denim, supported by TENCEL™

Denim production has historically been seen as one of the main skeletons in the fashion industry’s closet. One of the most water and chemical-intensive garments to manufacture, some fibers have a substantial environmental and social impact. However, several manufacturers and brands have been working together to develop innovative technologies that aim to make denim production much less wasteful and polluting in recent years. Ranging from mechanical and chemical recycling, low-impact washes and blockchain, the fashion industry’s focus on sustainability has helped revolutionise the denim sector, which is slowly but surely shifting towards more responsible, transparent, and low-impact production. The outbreak of the global pandemic only further highlighted the issues within the denim sector, encouraging the industry to adapt to the changing times.

But there remains much work to be done regarding investing in sustainable models such as circularity. To learn more about sustainable denim, new developments in the industry and the importance of partnership, we spoke to Tricia Carey, Director of Global Business Development Denim and Americas at Lenzing Group.

What makes sustainable denim sustainable, in your opinion?

TC: Denim has notoriously been known as a significant contributor to pollution, and its environmental impact has been widely debated over the past few years. Producing denim is a complex craft, and traditional methods rely heavily on water and chemicals. To make denim more sustainable, we need to start from the beginning of the product life cycle by introducing more responsible production practices into the creation of denim products to minimise or even eliminate waste and pollution. Currently, there have already been a variety of technologies that have been developed explicitly for denim that can accomplish this, and there are more in development.

What new developments have there been to make denim production more sustainable that caught your attention?

TC: Through advancements and innovations within resale, indigo application, and collaborations, the denim industry is on a positive trajectory to lowering environmental impact and providing social improvements. Technologies have emerged to improve the textiles and manufacturing processes, emphasising water savings and chemical contaminations and providing smart solutions in recycling denim. We also witness the growing popularity of resale platforms such as Boyish’s Consignment Shop and Levi’s Secondhand to extend the overall denim life cycle, minimising production needs whilst enabling consumers to try new styles. Another example is the creation of Ozone technology to provide natural bleaching capabilities without the use of heavy chemicals and implementing lasers to distress garments without subjecting fabrics to heavy washes and harmful chemicals.

How important is it for manufacturers to work with brands when developing sustainable technologies, in your opinion?

TC: Cross-industry collaboration is key to holistically accelerating the denim industry’s sustainability journey. At Lenzing, we work to address sustainability from the fibre source to finished garments and do so by partnering with mills and retailers to understand their needs and educate stakeholders across every level of the supply chain. One example would be our partners told us they wanted the option to choose less shiny denim fabrics, so we delivered a solution. We diversified our fibre offerings to create matte TENCEL™ branded lyocell fibres by innovating a new production method. This enabled versatility in denim designs whilst reducing the ecological footprint of the resulting fabric and garment. There has also been a range of collaborations across the industry. From the Transformers Foundation advocating for denim supply chain players to the Ellen MacArthur Foundation’s Jeans Redesign campaign, which brought together experts to unveil a set of guidelines to enhance circularity, these collaborations are advancing denim’s green agenda and driving positive change.

What has Lenzing, with its TENCEL™ branded fibres, been doing to accelerate the shift to sustainable denim further?

TC: At Lenzing, our goal as a fibre production leader is to always stay updated with the latest demands of brand and mill partners, and it is imperative we work closely together to accomplish new breakthroughs. One example would be our innovation of TENCEL™ Modal fibres with Indigo Color Technology as a solution to tackle traditional indigo yarn with high crocking issues. Compared to conventional indigo dye, this new method allows significant water, heat, and energy savings.

Since the launch of Lenzing’s proprietary REFIBRA™ technology to promote upcycling, we have broadened its application through partnering with brands such as Kings of Indigo, 7 for All Mankind, Closed and Triarchy, and also developed The Circle Book to drive the circular economy discussion. To address market needs for carbon neutral solutions and reinforcing Lenzing’s commitment to achieving net-zero emissions by 2050, we launched our carbon-zero TENCEL™ Lyocell and Modal fibres, which global brands like Jack & Jones have adopted to craft denim staples.

How important is transparency when it comes to sustainable denim, in your opinion?

TC: Full supply chain transparency is crucial in creating truly sustainable denim. To achieve this requires the efforts of suppliers, brands and consumers to work together. At Lenzing, our fibre identification technology provides assurance to partners that their products are made of real TENCEL™ fibres. Furthermore, we also have a Lenzing E-Branding Service where manufacturers and brands can showcase their use of sustainable Lenzing fibres in a trusted, verifiable manner. Facilitating collaborations pave the way forward for real systemic change, and the TENCEL™ brand will continue to work closely with stakeholders to improve the ecological sustainability impact of denim production.

By using emerging and innovating technologies, producers can optimise denim lines and introduce end- user customisation rather than offering a vast range of pre-finished garments, which require large runs to break even. Many consumers are looking for the needle in the haystack that works for them, and emerging technologies like automated laser distressing and ozone can ensure each consumer finds the perfect garment, as producers minimise waste.

As the denim sector continues to evolve in the pursuit of greener denim, the need for collaboration between manufacturers, brands and retailers remains key. With global manufacturers such as Lenzing leveraging their input, the future of greener denim is hopefully nearer than we think.