In every fashion week season, a rearrangement of maisons on the calendar unfolds, featuring guest designers, new creative directors, occasional hiatuses and even exits. In the imminent Paris womenswear shows, Louis Vuitton has reclaimed its coveted closing spot on March 5th, contributing to a week brimming with 71 runway presentations and 109 events in total. Here are some of the debuts to look out for:
Lacoste's last showcase during Paris Fashion Week was in September 2021 for the Spring/Summer 2022 season. The sporty brand, renowned for its polo shirts, is set to return under the creative direction of Pelagia Kolotouros, who previously presented in New York last autumn. In an interview with Vogue Business, Kolotouros shared that her Lacoste will emanate "a new vision of femininity for the brand, showcasing more body-conscious silhouettes while embracing the brand codes of French heritage."
One of the most highly anticipated debuts of Paris Fashion Week will be Seán McGirr's at Alexander McQueen, scheduled for March 2nd at 8 pm. The brand swapped spots with Ann Demeulemeester, who will now show before. Dublin-born McGirr is expected to present a co-ed collection, and the industry eagerly awaits to see how he will rejuvenate the codes established by Sarah Burton since McQueen's passing in 2010.
While McQueen was a master tailor with experience at London’s Savile Row, he was equally a master of the subversive and traditional tailoring, cloth and cut. McGirr, having designed for contemporary labels like J.W. Anderson and Uniqlo, will need to bring forth a razor-sharp vision to please a critical industry audience.
Chemena Kamali is set to debut her collection for Chloé following Gabriela Hearst's departure, announced last summer. The German designer, familiar with the house from a previous design role before her stint at Saint Laurent, expressed in an interview with the Guardian last year, "my heart has always been Chloé’s." Kamali stands as one of the few female creatives leading a fashion house, emphasising a diversification in leadership, especially after McQueen's appointment of McGirr highlighted Kering's major houses being predominantly designed by caucasion men.
Alessandro Vigilante will unveil his inaugural collection for Rochas on February 28th. With prior experience at Gucci under Alessandro Michele, Dolce & Gabbana, and The Attico, the Italian designer is poised to redefine the house's identity and instill new codes, potentially reclaiming elements lost through the brand’s succession of designers. The brand's ownership by Italy’s Interparfums and manufacturing by Italy’s HIM Co SpA aligns with the appointment of an Italian designer, signifying potential synchronicity across management and its creative vision.
CFCL and Zomer
Among the newcomers to the ready-to-wear calendar are CFCL, a sustainable Japanese knitwear label that works with recycled fabrics, and Zomer, a new label named after the Dutch word for summer, which exhibited off-schedule with Dover Street Market last season. Founded by designer Danial Aitouganov and stylist Imruh Asha, fashion director at Dazed Digital, both labels are slated to showcase their collections on March 5th.