Chloé: What's behind creative director Chemena Kamali's rumoured departure?

Is Chemena Kamali really set to leave the luxury house owned by Swiss luxury group Richemont?

While nothing is official, rumours are circulating in the media about the possible departure of Chemena Kamali, who was appointed creative director of Chloé in October 2023.

On July 30, Glitz published an article titled “After Alaïa, Chloé struggles to retain its designer,” claiming the artistic director was considering leaving the house. The story was subsequently picked up by leading Italian media outlet NSS.

The potential departure of Chemena Kamali is paradoxical. It comes at a time when the designer appears to have successfully restored Chloé's desirability.

“Despite a very enthusiastic critical reception and widespread acclaim for the return of the brand's iconic boho-chic spirit, particularly with the re-release of the Paddington bag, the financial situation behind the scenes remains complicated,” writes Julie Boone for NSS.

Is desirability enough for a financial turnaround?

According to Glitz, the house reported losses of 54 million euros in 2025, following 60 million euros in 2024, on revenues of approximately 220 million euros.

Richemont does not publish Chloé's financial results separately. In its annual results for the year ending late March 2025, the group reported an “encouraging” performance. “Overall, ready-to-wear sales grew by double digits across all Maisons, with a particularly encouraging performance from Chloé.”

According to Glitz, Richemont is regularly forced to inject funds to support Chloé, which has created internal tension. This situation should be viewed in the context of the group's investments to support the visibility of its fashion houses.

“The Fashion & Accessories houses posted an operating margin of -2 percent, excluding targeted inventory provisions, while continuing to invest in the houses' visibility and in overhauling their e-commerce solutions, triggered by the sale process of Yoox Net-a-Porter (YNAP),” Richemont stated in its 2025 annual results presentation.

This summer rumour comes as the industry's game of musical chairs has continued in recent months. This is particularly true within the Richemont group, which recently saw Pieter Mulier depart from Alaïa for Versace (Prada Group).

Following his departure, does Richemont risk losing a second artistic director? The question has been put to both the group and the fashion house.