- Vivian Hendriksz |
Scandinavian tailoring brand Tiger of Sweden is set to launch its new vision for the brand under its recently appointed Creative Director Christoffer Lundman at Pure Man.
Tiger of Sweden is set to preview its upcoming Autumn/Winter 2018 collection for men at Pure Man next February. The AW 18 collection marks the debut collection from Lundman, the premium label first ever Creative Director. Under Lundman’s direction, Tiger of Sweden has placed an even firmer focus on tailoring, expanding its suiting core as well as its outerwear range.
“We are very excited to be participating at Pure London this coming February, and to be bringing our new collection to a wider audience,” said Kane Michael Luke, Country Director, Tiger of Sweden UK & Ireland. “Tiger has a rich history, which has been largely untold, and with Christoffer’s direction we are delving into this history and archives, while also pushing the brand forward enriching our collections with a richness that reflects our heritage.”
“It’s great that such an influential and market leading brand will be collaborating with Pure London for both editions in 2018,” added Adam Gough, Head of Menswear at Pure London. “We look forward to a long and successful partnership with Tiger of Sweden.”
Launched in 2016 and now celebrating its 5th season, Pure Man has rapidly grown over the last year and is expected to showcase over 100 new and existing menswear brands next season. Co-located at Pure London and Pure Origins, Pure Man will host its own dedicated entrance next year.
Photos: courtesy of Pure London
- Vivian Hendriksz |
London - Pitti Uomo 93rd edition, set to take place in Florence from January 9 to 12 2018, will serve as the home base for Gucci's Garden.
The luxury Italian fashion house will host the inauguration of the Gucci Garden inside the historic Palazzo della Mercanzia in Piazza dellas Signoria on January 9, the first day of the bi-annual menswear trade show.
Created by Gucci's creative director, Alessandro Michele, the Gucci Garden will feature a pop-up store selling unique edition products from Gucci. The Gucci Garden will also be home to a restaurant run by three-star Michelin chef Massimo Bottura and well as an exhibition area curated by Maria Luisa Frisa.
The initiative, which will be marked by a private cocktail party on the evening of January 9, comes as Gucci strengthens its roots in Florence.
- Vivian Hendriksz |
UK fashion trade fair Pure London is set to launch a dedicated entrance for menswear buyers following its continued growth.
Launched in 2016 and currently, in its 5th season, Pure Man is growing at a rapid pace, as the area is expected to present over 100 new and existing menswear brands, including sportswear and accessories next season.
“Menswear is definitely having a moment and all the indicators are showing exponential growth," said Adam Gough, Head of Menswear at Pure London. "We are really excited to have our own dedicated entrance this season and visitors will be welcomed by a host of exciting international and UK brands. We have plenty of Pure Man exclusives too that I’m sure will excite buyers looking for something fresh.”
Pure Man was developed in order for the trade fair to better serve the increasing demand for leading menswear from fashion retailers after identifying a gap in the market. Set to grow by 30 percent to 15 billion pounds by 2021, the menswear offering continues to develop from high-end brands to emerging designers and wardrobe essentials.
Located in Pure London and new sourcing event Pure Origin, buyers at Pure Man now include retailers expanding into the sector along with buyers who offer both menswear and womenswear. New brands set to join the line up for Pure Man February 2018 include Tretorn, Chevignon, Lords & Fools. Pure London AW18 is set to run from February 11 to 13, 2018 at Olympia London.
Photos: Pure London
- FashionUnited |
Written by Hyun Yeu. Yeu worked as head of design at Gsus for the last six years. Before that he owned his own label Ado Les Scents.
Amsterdam - Taking place twice a year, Kingpins Amsterdam is the place to be for denim lovers from around the world. A wide range of fabric manufacturers, denim mills, suppliers, stitching-, trimming- and washing houses and fabric tech companies from all over the world gather in Amsterdam to present the latest developments in the denim industry at the denim trade fair.
There are two reasons for me to visit a trade show: inspiration and solutions. This edition of Kingpins managed to do both!
I soaked up the atmosphere of the participants simply by wandering through the Westergasfabriek venue and seeing the ‘indigo blooded’ crowd there – looking at their style of clothing, the accessories and shoes worn and hair. Their passion for workwear and denim, on display like live mannequins gathered in their seemingly natural habitat, talking to each other, doing serious business. For me to observe and enjoy from a distance.
But maybe the biggest value add of this edition of Kingpins for me lies in the solutions area: as a designer I am constantly looking for solutions – solutions to challenges in the design of garments or challenges related to fabrics, washings, stitching, trimmings et cetera.
The biggest value add of this edition of Kingpins for me lies in the solutions area: as a designer I am constantly looking for solutions
Green solutions at Kingpins Amsterdam
I saw solutions – and they were all green! Almost everything I saw at Kingpins was in some form or way linked to sustainability and the notion of green fashion.
Green fashion always has been on my mind, but I have been neglecting it mostly because of higher prices or high minimum production numbers. For me sustainability was more for brands that built their identity around it – not for all. Today, I stand corrected!
For me sustainability was more for brands that built their identity around it – not for all. Today, I stand corrected!
At the first day of Kingpins, I saw a inspiring display of the fact that our sector has matured in this respect and that there are so many different options and solutions available: being green and affordable can go together! Throughout the entire production process and the entire fashion value- and supply chain, sustainable options are available: organic cotton, yarn made from recycled materials like bottles and waste clothing, natural dye, energy and water saving washing processes. Almost every exhibitor at Kingpins has something sustainable to offer. It was hard to miss.
Hyun Yeu: ‘My favourite material was Refibra from Lenzing’
My favourite material was Refibra from Lenzing. We know Lenzing from it's famous Tencel and Modal fibers and fabrics. This new developed Refibra is mixture of cotton pulps made out of waste cotton and wood pulps from sustainable forests.
It has great hand feel of tencel and soft cotton. Depends on the mixture of Refibra and other yarn could make all different kind of fabrics. There were already multiple options in Refibra mix in display.
‘The circular economy has now also entered the fashion industry’
It is encouraging to see that the concept, the importance and reality of the circular economy has now also entered the fashion industry - and that our industry is fully embracing it.
Some odd years ago the notion of using organic cotton or recyclable fabrics was seen as new and kind of odd. Now (high)-tech companies are in the lead with inventing new sustainable fabrics and energy efficient and CO2 neutral production processes.
Photos: The Kingpins Show Amsterdam. Credit: Hyun Yeu for FashionUnited.
- Danielle Wightman-Stone |
The UK’s leading fashion trade show, Pure London has announced that it is launching a new sourcing event, Pure Origin, with the aim of bringing together all aspects of fashion sourcing and manufacturing under one roof and uniting global suppliers, buyers and brands.
In a move that differentiates the show from others in the UK, Pure Origin will sit alongside Pure London and Pure Man, to offer a “unique opportunity for connected and efficient business,” which organisers state would facilitate easy access to global suppliers and fuel networking and trade.
Julie Driscoll, managing director at Pure London said: “Offering efficiency and time-saving benefits, Pure Origin will showcase a curated selection of international manufacturers, textile producers and white labels – it was the obvious extension to the globally recognised Pure London brand.
“The UK is renowned for its world-class retailing, booming e-commerce sector, innovative independents and resilience and following extensive research into the marketplace Pure Origin was created to deliver all aspects of fashion sourcing and manufacturing under one spectacular roof at London Olympia.”
Over 40 manufacturers, including Blueberry Impex and Timeswell Textile from Hong Kong and Ribeiro and Matos from Portugal have already confirmed their attendance. In addition, there will be a strong UK contingency at the show with Oxford Blue, LS Manufacturing Ltd, Gil Design Studio, Kalopsia Collective and BeFab Be Creative UK all signed up.
The next edition of Pure London takes place from February 11-13 at London Olympia and will host more than 800 brands across womenswear, menswear, young fashion, athleisure, footwear and accessories from 48 countries.
Images: courtesy of Pure London
- Vivian Hendriksz |
London - In honour of its ten-year anniversary Denim Première Vision is set to host a double event next month under the name 'the Denim Bash', which is set to bring together business, culture and inspiration.
Set to take place from November 14 to 16, the denim trade fair will mark its past twenty seasons of innovation and inspiration with its new program. The Denim Première Vision Show, taking place at the Paris Event Center (PEC) will run from November 14 and 15, offers the industry's suppliers and buyers a platform to connect while reflecting on the evolution of denim values through four key events.
One event is dedicated to sharing a multi-faceted fashion point of view and will feature a creative interpretation of the season developed by 8 international designers. A total of 16 original looks produced in collaboration with a selection of exhibitors will be shown, in addition to the Denim Trends area, which will include Denim Trend Tasting seminars and the 3rd edition of the Première Vintage Market.
Another key event sees the launch of a new area dedicated to 75 international exhibitors, such as spinners, weavers and manufacturers who offer small quantities. A third event will encompass 8 workshops and conferences focusing on 5 main issues in the denim sector, such as denim's new socio-cultural values, a circular economy and changes in the value chain. Lastly, the Denim Bash will also include a Festive Event to mark Denim Première Vision 10th anniversary.
In addition to the denim trade fair, Denim Première Vision is also set to see the launch of the 1st denim pop-up street. Set to run from the evening of November 14 to 16 on Marais, Rue du Vertbois, the denim pop-up street sees dozens of boutiques taking part and will feature collections from avant-garde designers, key denim players, art galleries and more. The denim pop-up street will be open to the general public as well as professionals as the one-off event is set to celebrate the best of denim culture.
- Isabella Naef |
The third Autumn edition of Chic Shanghai, a fair that has been held in China since 1993, but only took place once a year in March until recently, closed its doors on October 13, 2017 after welcoming a total of 65,722 visitors. Visitor numbers at Chic (short for China International Clothing and Accessories fair) were essentially in line with its 2016 edition, which welcome 65,71 visitors in total.
850 exhibitors participated in the fair this season, the vast majority of whom were Chinese. There were a few product catalogues present at the stands, but there was a QR code present in every space from which all information about the brand could be directly downloaded on WeChat, the social network used for communication from all the Made in China companies.
There were also 13 Italian companies present at the fair, promoting 20 fashion brands and 6 French labels. In the exhibition halls of the crowded National Exhibition and Convention Center, there was no shortage of Korean brands, such as fashion brand Kim Chul Ung Mode, which was recently exhibited on the runway in Seoul fashion week. As Kim Chul Ung, the label's creative director, explained to FashionUnited, the brand will soon also participate in New York Fashion Week and it is preparing to debut in Europe with its cashmere garments and its pleated tartan skirts. The brand's innovation lies above all in its flowing shapes.
Chic Shanghai welcomed a total of 65,722 visitors.
And as Chen Dapeng, Vice President of China National Garment Association and Head of Chic, told FashionUnited, innovation must be the focus of the brands that want to go abroad. “Chic remains a platform dedicated to fashion labels that intend to focus on the Chinese market, but brands that want to go abroad need to invest in creativity and innovation. When companies set internationalisation as a goal, they have to check whether they actually have the capabilities," said Mr Chen.
At the moment, it seems that many of the Chinese companies present at the Chinese fair are still organising their development across borders. According to official figures, the number of fashion textile companies in China, at least the large ones, amounts to 100,000 and they employ 90 million people.
Despite owning trademarks, the larger companies primarily position themselves as third party suppliers. The young brands, many of which were created by designers who have studied at the top European schools, show creativity and innovation, but lack the economic resources and the right advice to position themselves in other markets. This, for example, is what the young designer who launched Art On, a fledgling Chinese label that offers Trench Bon Ton and also Lu Joe Nottingham, thinks. This brand is named after the founding designer who completed his studies in fashion in Nottingham itself. Both brands were present in the Chic Impulse area, a space dedicated to promising Made in China talents.
Chic hosted young Chinese talent in the Impulse area.
But if businesses in this market struggle to cross the border, except for some such as Guangzhou Zhuofeng Clothing, already a supplier of the well-known Primark chain and present in Chic with several denim lines, foreign brands, including Italian ones, appear instead to be directed towards Chinese consumers.
According to the Altagamma Worldwide Market Monitor, created by Bain & Company in collaboration with Altagamma, the global market for high-end personal goods will reach 254-259 billion in 2017, a steady growth rate of between 2 percent and 4 percent, mainly driven by the recovery of Chinese consumers both in the local and overseas market and by the increased propensity to buy in Europe.
Finding local Chinese partners at the moment seems to be one of the most popular paths, also because even though China is the leading online retail market (543 billion for products in each segment), the risks of counterfeiting and fraud lead Chinese consumers to be wary of online shopping for luxury goods. According to the Altagamma Digital Luxury Experience - DLE3 (e-commerce, experience and enterprise), created in partnership with McKinsey & Company, only 16 percent of Chinese luxury consumers expect to increase their online spending over the next year.
Young Chinese people, the so-called millennials, are looking for increasingly sophisticated shopping experiences and for personalised garments. "Chinese consumers are more and more careful and selective, no longer looking for the logo and label, but rather for individuality and also a sustainable approach by fashion clothing manufacturers," stressed Mr Chan.
“Chinese consumers are more and more careful and selective", stressed Mr Chen Dapeng.
European labels are therefore sharpening their weapons to attack this market, as evidenced by the emergence of trade fairs such as Milan Unica Shanghai and the debut of Style routes to Shanghai. A platform created by Confartigianato businesses with the Italian White Fair and supported by the Italian trade Agency to promote the internationalisation of Made in Italy. However, for some years now, Emi's tried and tested partnership with Ente Moda Italia has continued and has brought the Made in Italy businesses to the March edition of Chic. At the edition just concluded, the Italian brands - a total of twenty - were at the Italian Fashion exhibition hall.
Mr Sun Guowei said: "We are trying to attract international showrooms and buyers.”
The Chinese company Famory, which produces garments inspired by traditional Chinese dress, made of silk and embroidered by hand, has been exporting abroad for some time, especially to the USA, Europe and South Asia. Founded in 1955, the company has also developed across borders, thanks, at least in part, to the maxim that the "Chinese get married in Chinese dress".
To export, however, it is also necessary to attract international buyers. “We are trying to attract international showrooms and buyers”, Mr Sun Guowei, General Manager of China World Exhibitions, told FashionUnited. Mr Sun explained that the fair organisers are moving in this direction also because of the fact that the Chinese market is changing. The distribution network is moving, though still slowly, towards multi-branding. “Competition in the fashion industry pushes fashion companies to improve their quality and to seek distributors throughout the territory. But also foreign companies that want to grow here are looking for reliable partners”. That is why, from the next Chic edition, there will be meetings of the present brands with showroom representatives.
Photo: Chic, credit FashionUnited
- Vivian Hendriksz |
Leading UK fashion trade fair, Pure London, has launched its AW 18/19 campaign under the name ‘We Are London’ together with its new website.
The new platform offers streamlined information, as well as new features within its exhibitor and visitor zones, such as a live chat function to aid visitors in drawing up their appointments ahead of the show. Visitors are able to add brand profiles and collections to their wish life, receive brand recommendations based on previous interest and instantly message brands to arrange visits at Pure London. The new website lets exhibitors create profiles and upload images with ease while highlighting important news.
The new campaign for Pure London’s AW 18/19 show aims to highlight the fashion trade fair’s main USP’s, which include confidence, creativity and diversity. “Our AW18/19 manifesto sets the scene towards a new direction,” commented Julie Driscoll, Managing Director at Pure London. “Celebrating fashion at its most ambitious, style at its most unabashed, all within our great cultural home, London at its most magnificent. From the carefully edited sectors, and brands, to the industry knowledge and smart insight we deliver, we embody fashion at its purest and the passion it incites in all of us.”
Visuals for the brand’s AW 18/19 were inspired by the Union Jack flag to encourage visitors and exhibitors to celebrate all that is good in the British fashion industry. “We are Pure London and we continue to feel excited to be at the very heart of the fashion industry,” added Driscoll. Pure London AW 18/19 is set to run from February 11 to 13, 2018 at London Olympia.
Photos: Courtesy of Pure London
- Simone Preuss |
The first Denimsandjeans India show, which took place from 25-26 September in Bangalore, attracted over 1,500 visitors and more than 30 exhibitors from nine different countries including Bangladesh, Brazil, Ethiopia, Italy, Spain, Switzerland, Turkey and Vietnam. Apart from brands and retailers, the show also brought together garment manufacturers and exporters with international buyers as well as technology providers and garment suppliers.
"The buyers' turnout at the exhibition as well as during seminars was phenomenal, we are very happy to see the responses. We thank everyone for supporting us and I hope all the stakeholders will be surely get benefited by such events in a long run," said Sandeep Agarwal, founder and CEO of Denimsandjeans.com, according to the show's media partner Fibre2Fashion.
More than half the exhibitors were from India - among them Archroma, Arvind, Raymond and Reliance Industries - but many made the trip from abroad to support and showcase their wares at the first international denim supply chain show in India, among them Bluesign Technologies from Switzerland; Delta Composite Knitting, Denimach, Mahmud Group and M & J Group from Bangladesh; Hyosung from Vietnam; Jeanologia from Spain; Kanoria Africa Textiles from Ethiopia; Kilim Denim from Turkey; Mactec and Ribbontex from Italy and Vicunha Textil from Brazil.
On the visitor front, all major international denim retailers and brands had sent their representatives to Bangalore, among them Asmara International, Benetton, C&A, Gap, H&M, Levi's, Li & Fung, Marks & Spencer, Ostin, Pepe Jeans, PVH, Spykar, Target, Tesco, VF Corporation and Zara. Among the Indian brands and retailers, Aditya Birla Fashion, Arvind Brands, Being Human, Blackberry, Hypercity Retail, ITC Limited, Jabong, Killer Jeans, Landmark Group, Mufti, Myntra, Pantaloons, Raymonds Apparels, Reliance Trens, Shoppers Stop, Tata Cliq, V-Mart and Westside were represented.
On the first day, Stefano Aldighieri, former creative director of 7 for all Mankind, spoke about "The secret of success for a denim brand" while Jordi Juani, division director at Jeanologia, pondered "The evolution of jeans finishing from hand to technology". On the second day, denim expert Dilek Erik from Turkey explained the question "Why should we use stretch denim in men's fashion despite the rebirth of the rigid look?", while Vasco Pizarro, director of Pizarro laundry from Portugal presented "Denim wash trends from op European brands for AW18".
Denim has been one of the most promising textile segments in India in the past decade and is set to grow further, given India's status of being an avid producer of denim - second only to China - as well as an avid consumer with a higher volume of jeans sold than in the USA and the second largest consumer worldwide.Photos: Denimsandjeans and Killer Jeans website
- Vivian Hendriksz |
UBM Fashion, the company behind fashion trade shows Magic in Las Vegas and Coterie in New York, has realigned its New York fashion trade calendar for 2018 in order to keep up with retail’s evolving landscape.
The shift sees two key changes taking place in the New York trade show lineup, which are geared to ‘create new and more efficient business opportunities for both brands and retailers,’ said the organisation in a statement. After consulting with the Accessories Council, industry influencers and customers, UBM Fashion aims to launch a new women’s New York fashion trade show calendar that is in line with the changes occurring within New York Fashion Week and New York Market Week.
UBM Fashion realigns its tradeshows to match industry changes
“As the global leader in fashion tradeshows, UBM Fashion has been seeing firsthand the dramatic changes in the retail landscape,” said Mike Alic, Managing Director, UBM Fashion. “From the growth of e-commerce and fast fashion and changes in consumer buying patterns to the importance of delivering lifestyles and experiences – we at UBM Fashion realized there was an opportunity, in fact, a duty, to make real changes for our industry.”
As New York’s women’s spring and fall fashion weeks continue to grow, UBM is set to launch an additional pre-collections show in June. Running from June 10 to 12, 2018, Coterie, Fame, Moda, AccessoriesTheShow and Pooltradeshow, will take place, offering the sector a local point to capitalise on the key market period. In addition to this new event , UBM Fashion is set to unite men’s and women’s contemporary apparel, accessories, and footwear communities by launching the first dual-gender fashion trade show in New York.
The decision to unite the two comes as more and more fashion companies serve both men’s and women’s markets. By creating a single, inspiring event which allows brands and retailers room to connect and grow their businesses more effectively, the organisation hopes to fulfil both parties demands. UBM Fashion’s first dual-gender New York trade show is set to take place in July 2018, with Project being the marquee show for both men’s and women’s.
However the men’s and women’s market weeks in January 2018 are set to remain separate, with the women’s taking place from January 7 to 9 and men’s January 21 to 23, 2018. Women’s wear fashion trade shows for FW’ 18 Coterie, Fame, Mode, Sole Commerce and Children’s Club are set to take place from February 26 to 28, 2018. The dual-gender trade show, which includes Project, Fame, Mode, MRket and Children’s Club will then run from July 22 to 24.
“As the world of retail shifts, it makes perfect sense that our market week and tradeshow dates would better align to meet the changing needs of our retailers and brands. We know there is not a ‘perfect’ date for everyone, but the logic behind this move makes a lot of sense for most. We plan to realign some of our event dates for 2018 to reflect this new schedule,” added Karen Giberson, President, Accessories Council.
The Jacob Javits Centre will continue to serve as the home base for UBM Fashion. Magic in Las Vegas will remain unaffected by the change, running in February and August 2018 as per usual.
Photos: NY Women's Sept, courtesy of UBM