- Georgie Lillington |
Jacket Required opened the doors of their 13th edition at The Old Truman Brewery on Wednesday July 26. Showcasing contemporary fashion, 300 streetwear brands prepared their collections for the two days of flocking press and buyers from retailers such as Selfridges, Mr Porter and Urban Outfitters.
FashionUnited have rounded up the highlights so that you can get a feel for what happened at the growing contemporary trade fair’s Spring/Summer 2018 edition, which closed yesterday afternoon.
Jacket Required Woman
Established as a hub for menswear brands, this season’s Jacket Required saw the addition of 60 selected womenswear brands, showcased alongside their menswear counterparts with brands including Kappa and Dickies benefitting from this change, able to show their prevalent designs to unisex retailers.
“Bringing a selection of womenswear to Jacket Required has been something under discussion with brands and buyers for a number of seasons, and it now feels like the time is right,” said Alice Elliott, Event Director in a press statement. “We have a number of labels that are extremely relevant to the women’s market as they stand, and we are keen to provide them with a platform to showcase a strong womenswear edit of spring/summer 2018 collections to targeted retailers.’
The two day fair, spread over two floors at the trendy Shoreditch location also showcased footwear, accessories and lifestyle products from big name brands such as Clarks Originals as well as smaller independent brands.Launched in 2011 with only 30 exhibitors, Jacket Required has always been about “quality not quantity” according to co-founders Mark Batista, and Craig Ford who pride themselves on their ‘carefully edited international line-up’ of brands.
To guarantee space for new exhibitors and visitors, the layout was changed and an additional area was added to the floor plan, where ‘key brands’ were located as well as newly opened sneaker store Presented By, who offered rare and luxury products to buyers.
Sex Skateboards also added an interesting installation to the simplistic layout of the fair, with a spray painted wall that reaffirmed the contemporary streetwear theme of the show.
The Art of the Football Shirt
Growth has been steady since the trade fair’s inception, contributed to by the popular exhibitions that Jacket Required puts on alongside the fair. Open to general public as well as visitors to the fair, exhibitions such as last season’s homage to the late Massimo Osti, streetwear pioneer and founder of Stone Island has resulted in good press for the show and encouraged growth over the years.
Exploring streetwear further, Jacket Required presented a ‘selection of sartorially sound, obscure, vintage football shirts which travel through history, design and popular culture’ at this season’s event. Curated by Neal Heard who was on hand for visitors on both days, ‘The Art of the Football Shirt’, comprising 150 rare examples proved a popular attraction, exploring ‘the many links between team kits of previous generations which have gained rarity and iconic status, and how they fuse or collide with the worlds of music, fashion and politics.’
In talks with industry professionals
In addition to the exhibition, British journalist James Brown hosted a panel discussion with curator Neal Heard and fellow football shirt collector Jesse Rabbeljee as well as Juergen Rank & Inigo Turner, designers at Adidas Football - the panel looked further into the significance of the football shirt in the sport and fashion.
Photos courtesy of Jacket Required
- Georgie Lillington |
Pure London opened its doors at Olympia on Sunday July 25, and was off to a good start with positivity for the upcoming Spring/Summer 18 season shining through. Over 700 brands, 60 percent international and the rest British, prepared their womenswear, menswear, footwear and accessories’ collections for the onslaught of buyers, press and visitors looking for next season’s best sellers. 326 new exhibitors, some exclusively showing at Pure, helped entice buyers from the likes of Harrods, Asos and Fenwick.
In case you missed Pure London Spring/Summer 18, FashionUnited have rounded up the highlights so that you can get a feel for what happens at the UK’s leading trade fair.
“Offer something new and unknown”
An inspiring mood was set by Dr Pam Hogg, fashion designer, DJ and artist who took to the stage for the first keynote of the fair. Her main piece of advice to buyers attending Pure; “if we keep offering the same thing that all your customers can buy, it becomes stagnant. Offer something new and unknown. If you buy safe that is all people will buy - add pieces to your shop utilising new designers and help new designers grow. Reserve a place in your store to champion new designers so things are kept exciting - think of it as brightening up your shop. Show you are adventurous!”
Meet the experts, new for SS18
Pure debuted their Meet the Experts area this season, inviting visitors to engage in a ‘unique opportunity to have a [free of charge], 20 minute one-to-one discussion with an expert from within the fashion industry’. Topics on offer included launching and building a brand, social media and general business advice from experts such as blogger Rowan Row, Dessy Tsolova from Utelier.com and lecturers from London College of Fashion, Nichole de Carle and Janet Wilson.
Echoing Hogg’s words was Sara Maggioni, Director of Retail and Buying at WGSN (global trend forecasters), when she spoke at the Exclusive Womenswear SS18 Buyers’ Briefing, a key event at the new meet the experts area. Telling visitors to Pure that “consumers will be buying less, but buying better”, Maggioni added that “versatility is key,” suggesting that investing in seasonless, dual-function items could offer better value for money and more cross merchandising opportunities for brands.
An Oriental Future of Individuality
Individuality was a key theme throughout the fair, presented by Pure from the onset with this season’s theme: Oriental Futures. Described as ‘oriental by nature and futuristic by approach’, the fair presented a ‘cultural collision of two worlds’ to audiences.
Accompanied by a oriental future inspired catwalk show, Pure showcased four brands; Slow Futures, Kinship, Psychotropical and Youth Tonic - billed to be the brands to watch next season, according to Maggioni and WGSN. Exclusively shown at Pure ahead of London Fashion Week, the designs featured strong minimalistic silhouettes, romantic bohemian styles with a raw edge, lush botanical themes and gender fluid styling.
“Find your authentic tone of voice and stick to it”
Individuality continued to shine into Henry Holland’s Keynote talk on Monday. During an interview with Laura Weir, Editor of ES Magazine, Holland highlighted the importance of making your brand unique. Talking about his own brand, House of Holland, he told audiences that “I have been lucky in the development of the brand DNA, it’s playful sense of humour can be translated across different price points and product categories so find your authentic tone of voice, your point of view, and stick to it.”
New Footwear destination
Other key highlights at Pure London included the unveiling of the new footwear destination, putting a spotlight on shoe brands such as Birkenstock who had a 430 square foot stand at the fair, along with Nero Giardini, Alpe, Anuschka, Saz, Unisa and Yull London showcasing their designs.
Pure London Display Awards took place on Sunday, where the ‘Best in Show’ award was presented to King Louie brand for the third year in a row. Rose Everduin, Sales Manager at Best in Show winners King Louie said; “We’re so happy, not only has the show been really busy with new, existing and international customers, as a special surprise we won Best in Show for the third time.”
As Pure comes to an end on the afternoon of Tuesday 25, Julie Driscoll, Portfolio Director at Pure London says: “Fashion is about innovation, creativity and individuality and there are plenty of opportunities to do business despite the seismic shift caused by Brexit. Retailers are excited by the chance to discover new UK and international brands and know they need to offer consumers not just value for money but something versatile and individual. We have seen this across the entire show this season and brands are delivering.”
Photos courtesy of Pure London
- Vivian Hendriksz |
Pure London kicked off the start of its Spring/Summer 2018 edition in style on Sunday, celebrating its new “Oriental Futures” theme with an East-meets-West inspired catwalk show. Running until July 25 at Olympia London, Pure welcomes a roster of returning brands, as well as a host of new brands showing their upcoming collections within its show sectors.
Pure London's highlights over the years
Key note speakers at London's largest trade fair include Dr Pam Hogg, famed fashion designer and artist as well as leading British designer Henry Holland, who take to the stage to share their expertise on Sunday and Monday respectively. New exhibitors sections include a dedicated footwear area, 'Meet the Experts' as well as a larger Athleisure area and Pure Man section. With over 700 fashion, footwear and accessories brands attending, Pure London has continued to thrive as one of the UK’s fashion market’s main trade fairs.
As the event continues to evolve and adapt to the industry's ever-changing landscape, FashionUnited takes a moment to look back on some of Pure London’s milestone over the years since 2009.
Use the arrows to navigate through the events ordered by date or click on a timeframe (in the grey bar) to learn more.
Photos: Courtesy of Pure London
- Georgie Lillington |
In an internet fuelled society, retailers are having to rethink ways of creating an authentic experience for their customers, whilst attempting to match online sales. With the rise of technologies, such as Virtual Reality, Augmented Reality and mixed sensory experiences as well as the launch of superfast 5G internet by 2020 - the question is no longer if the retail industry will see disruption, but when.
Future trends in retail stores was one of the key discussion points at this weekend’s Modefabriek, the largest fashion trade fair in The Netherlands. Exploring these ideas at MF talks were industry specialists Richard Lamb, trend watcher and futurologist and Ronny De Vylder, a creative visualizer and trend spotter in cities across the world.
FashionUnited has rounded up three main takeaways, highlighting the disruptive areas of the fashion retail industry and what the future may hold.
1. Using technology to create an authentic experience
New store concepts using the latest technologies such as Amazon’s ’No Line, No Checkout’ Go store. are currently in the pipeline. Using an app that tracks your purchases, customers will be able to pay using their Amazon accounts upon leaving the store, without ever having to pass through a checkout point. Experts like Richard Lamb are contemplating the future of concepts like this - asking will it work for consumers who prefer human interaction? There are often numerous technological issues which come with implementing new electronic systems as they struggle to imitate the exact job of a human. For example, Amazon is postponing the opening of it’s Amazon Go store, because the technology designed to replace employees at the checkout is not working properly yet.
Another advance in retail technology sees machines being used in stores that can identify shopping items when they are placed on the machine (effectively a table), according to Lamb. These machines let customers learn more about the item, complete a purchase and even preview an outfit on their own body. Some even have dressing rooms which appear from the ceiling with just a click of a button - effectively creating an authentic shopping experience for the customer. These machines are adding value for the customer, but are usually accompanied by an in-store employee which seems to be a much more logical step in adopting new technologies in stores.
Lamb believes that personalised communication could be the way to consumers hearts. This is evident in the rise of retailers and brands tapping into social media platforms such as Facebook and Instagram. By offering customer recommendations and personalised information in response to consumer's locations and other shopping habits, retailers can use data gained online to encourage customers to buy more items in store. However retailers are warned they should approach this method with caution, as the technology could be seen as intrusive to customers as oppose to helpful.
Despite skeptics believing that brick-and-mortar stores may eventually become obsolete, replaced by their online alternatives, they neglect to mention that shopping remains a form of entertainment - a fun experience that creates memories - something that cannot always be fulfilled online. The question is how do retailers combine the two to create a seamless retail experience for customers. Can the rise of artificial intelligence in the form of AI chatbots and sales assistants really create an authentic experience?
2. "Technology and automation will never fully take over the retail industry"
However, retailers should not be overly dependent on technology when it comes to customer service, as there are certain areas which cannot be replicated using technology alone. Take for example leading department store Isetan in Japan. During his talk De Vylder praises this premium department for its unparalleled customer service. Funeral services, sleep advisors, shoe counsellors and kimono consultants are just some of the specialist services offered by Isetan. This is the perfect example of a brick-and-mortar store using its expertise to reach its full potential for customer service and experience, without overly depending on technology.
Despite the amount of retail innovations, Lamb confirmed that “technology and automation will never fully take over the retail industry.” In addition not every retailer has the opportunity to implement new systems or the desire to.
3. Use of technology is not desirable for all stores and their customers
Many retailers and brands are not interested in adding new technologies in stores and believe that a more traditional approach is needed in order to gain customer satisfaction. The reverse is also true as there is a number of consumers who prefer human interaction to fulfill their in-store experience over technological advancements, “There are people from each generation that ‘see through’ the use of digital - such as an automated chatbot on a website - for want of authentic attention,” added Lamb. In particular those from an older generation, such as the Baby-Boomers, as they tend to be more unaware of technological advancements and would rather not see changes made to their favoured stores.
However, retailers who do not succumb to technological pressures and make the needed changes could be left behind in a shifting industry. With huge retail players like Amazon taking the majority of the market, only specialist retailers will be left with a place in the industry. Lamb believes that only brick and mortar store to remain profitable in the future is the concept store - one that offers a unique experience to customers and a reason to visit. Whether that be a brick-and-mortar or virtual concept store.
- Don-Alvin Adegeest |
REVIEW Sunday saw the opening of the Modefabriek in Amsterdam, a two-day tradeshow housing a mix of mostly denim and casualwear brands at the RAI exhibition centre.
Unlike the scenes at Pitti, where a ‘see and be seen’ atmosphere reigns, the vibe at Modefabriek is more relaxed. Perhaps because the show opens early Sunday morning – there were plenty of baristas serving espressos to kickstart the crowd– and the tropical weather outside brought a tangible boost to the spirit.
The first brand to catch my attention is Majem, a new rainwear brand designed in Amsterdam and manufactured in China from recycled polyester. They exhibit as part of the Curated Store by HTNK, which describes itself as platform for cutting edge designers. The soft pink mac version is a stand-out, and co-founder Anita tells me the brand picked up several stockists at their first tradeshow outing. I tell her the black coat reminds me of Darth Vader, but the navy trench looks like a surefire bestseller, a new colourway introduced for SS18.
There is a strong selection of international brands
I wander the aisles and am somewhat surprised to see so many international brands, including Champion, Rains, Colmar, Helly Hansen, Lui Jo, Repetto and Pierre Cardin, yet the show space is filled with an adhoc selection of companies, with womenswear appearing to be the biggest share. Of these, there were plenty of affordable fashion brands that likely appeal to the Dutch stores that don’t go abroad to buy collections.
I stop for a chat with Leonie from the mobile factory Spijkerbrij, who is sat behind a sewing machine and a pile of vintage denim fabric. She tells me there is a 20 percent surplus of unused denim in The Netherlands and that customers can easily recycle their old jeans into new products. She travels the country with her business partner Lois, where together they show the process of upcycling denim.
At Armedangels, an eco-fashion brand showcasing in the same space, their dedication to sustainability is boldly shown in big letters above their stand: "We work in the second dirtiest industry in the world." Armedangels aims to produce clothes using only organic materials and sustainable processes.
Next up a curated set of mannequins catch my eye at Van Gils. A DJ in the corner is spinning fine tunes and two branded Smeg fridges on either side are filled with drinks and bubbles. Van Gils’ CEO Harry van der Zee tells me being a Dutch heritage brand exhibiting at a Dutch show is important. Modefabriek represents an opportunity to showcase the brand’s direction as well as see clients and other industry notables. Even if the fair isn’t the place where orders get written per se.
Tradeshows are no longer a platform for just sales
And that is one of the challenges of tradeshows, which must offer brands a platform where buyers come to buy collections. Once upon a time stores would come with ample budgets in search of newness, but nowadays there is as much browsing and schmoozing as there is buying.
Fashion is all about relationships, even more so when it comes to working with local stores who are not buying the latest catwalk or trend collections. These boutique owners have copious choices in which brands to stock and Modefabriek offers a decent edit of brands for its market.
Photo credit: Modefabriek SS18, by FashionUnited
- Georgie Lillington |
Pure London’s July SS18 event will feature an additional area, where visitors will have the chance to engage in one-to-one discussions with industry experts.
Visitors can book one or more free sessions with experts prior to their visit, with topics including social media, marketing, launching a brand, general business advice, working with influencers, and fibre and fabric sourcing advice.
Industry experts available for discussions will include, Rowan Row, founder of thefashionwebb.com, Director of Utelier.com Dessy Tsolova, Just Hype’s Head of PR and Marketing, Ben Allingham along with many others. Covering a range of subjects, the meet the experts area will be joining a line-up of more than 30 speakers across the three days - including Monday’s keynote address with British designer, Henry Holland.
Pure London is the UK's leading trade fashion buying event, representing womenswear, menswear, footwear, accessories and young fashion - taking place from July 23 to 25 at Olympia, London.
Photo: Dessy Tsolova, courtesy of Pure London
- Vivian Hendriksz |
Leading London fashion trade fair, Pure London, has tapped British fashion designer Henry Holland as its second keynote speaker for its upcoming edition in July. Together with Pam Hogg, Henry Holland is set to take to the stage at Pure London, running from July 23 to 25 and share his expert industry insights on the cusp of his eponymous label 10 year anniversary.
The designer's speech, which is set to take place on Monday, July 24 at 3.20 pm, will cover a wide array of topics including his unconventional route into the fashion industry, how brands can remain authentic, collaborations, how he keeps customers engaged as well as his greatest challenges. "Henry is a much loved and respected figure in the industry and we are delighted to welcome him to Pure London," commented Julie Driscoll, Portfolio Director for Pure London. "I think visitors will find his address insightful and informative."
Holland first caught the industry's interest back in 2006 with his iconic ‘fashion groupies’ slogan tees. In early 2008, after showing for two seasons with Fashion East, his label House of Holland held its first solo show on schedule during London Fashion Week to critical acclaim. Since then his brand has continued to grow and is now an internationally established brand, stocked in leading department stores such as Colette, Opening Ceremony, and Liberty.
However, he reflects on his "alternative" approach to starting out in the fashion industry, noting; "I kind of worked back to front and launched my business with one of the most commercial products that you can which is a printed t-shirt, and then I built an aesthetic off the back of that... I did that whole process completely back to front. The biggest challenge for me has been communicating to the consumer and the media that we are more than a t-shirt brand."
Holland will also speak about growing his business overseas at Pure London, focusing on China, in particular, a market which accounts for 26 percent of its business share, as House of Holland prepares to launch open its debut concept store in the country. "I would like to build our own retail concept whether that’s bricks and mortar or more of an online proposition. To create something that showcases our world as a whole, as an entirety encompassing all our collections and product categories under one roof, there’s an opportunity there to create something really exciting," he added.
The British designer adds to a line-up of more than 30 inspiring speakers across the three days, including Sunday’s keynote address by Pam Hogg. Other key speakers at Pure London include Alice Ratcliffe, Brand Lead, Appear Here, Olivia Cantillon, Director, Ownthelook.com and Nichole de Carle, Lecturer at London College of Fashion for Activewear, Lingerie, and Swimwear Design.
Henry Holland Photo credit: Mariano Vivianco
- Danielle Wightman-Stone |
The Centre for Fashion Enterprise (CFE), the incubator for fashion and fashion technology, is launching a new trade show for manufacturers to take place in London next month.
Taking place on July 11 at York Hall in Bethnal Green, the one-day event is targeting small brands and retailers and will showcase more than 20 exhibitors with the aim of introducing fashion brands to manufacturers who can produce smaller scale quantities in order to progress their businesses.
“London is known for nurturing the most innovative and authentic creative fashion designers and emerging businesses but without manufacturers to support and work with them their creative talent and growing businesses would not be realised,” said Judith Tolley, head of the Centre for Fashion Enterprise. “Our vision is to connect business with manufacturers with a view to developing long-term working relationships.”
The Manufacturers trade show is part of CFE’s Fashion Technology Emerging Futures (FTEF) project, which is part funded by the European Regional Development Fund (ERDF) with the aim of supporting the “new eco-system emerging in London”, recognising the convergence of fashion and technology SMEs.
Centre for Fashion Enterprise to host manufacturing trade show in London
Confirmed exhibitors at the launch event, which is planned to take place twice yearly from now on, includes: Fashion Enter, the social enterprise that provide sampling and small production runs for leading designers and new business startups; Zedonk that provides fashion labels with affordable modular online software; Offset Warehouse, an ethical textile company; Source Studio, which offers an all in one solution from fabric and trim sourcing, sampling through to production in Vietnam; Plus Samples that supples CMT, pattern cutting and grading services and Making for Change, a fashion training and manufacture unit, which opened in partnership with London College of Fashion and the Ministry of Justice.
Other exhibitions the have signed up are Pro Sampling Ltd, Eden Studio, New Planet, and London Sewing Services.
In addition, Making for Change has been commissioned to create a collection of tote bags featuring exclusive designs from CFE alumni including Phoebe English, Steven Tai, Teatum Jones and CFE Fashion Pioneer designer, Ovelia Transtoto.
Images: courtesy of Emmi Hyyppa of Sadie Williams AW17
- Danielle Wightman-Stone |
Trade show Pure London has announced that it is adding a ‘footwear destination’ at the forthcoming July edition of the show with a dedicated area on the upstairs floor.
Taking place at London Olympia from July 23-25, Pure London has stated that the footwear and accessory hall is set to be “one of the best offerings yet for buyings” as a host of international brands confirm attendance.
Returning brands include Birkenstock, which is set to showcase its latest spring/summer 2018 collection in a 430 square foot stand, alongside Nero Giardini, Alpe, Anuschka, Saz, Unisa and Yull London.
Footwear brands set to make their Pure London debut include Swedish brand Kitty Clogs, which offers handcrafted clogs, US brand Betty Page, and Holster, one of the world’s leading footwear brands based at Noosa Beach, Australia, which offers jelly footwear and espadrilles, as well as bags and trainers. Established Spanish brand Alma en Pena are also showing in the UK for the first time.
The premium curated section will feature debut brand Mashizan, a Malaysian luxe brand of women’s shoes catering to sophisticated, fashion-forward women, alongside returning brands Arche, Audley, Lola Cruz, Pretty Ballerinas and Romanian designer Lutta.
There are also new brands set to showcase in the Accessories Hall including Italian bag brand Mandarina Duck and Mexican accessories brand Tea and Tequila, while Spanish brand PD Paola will launch its collection of elegant, contemporary jewellery.
Also, making its Pure London debut is Danish hat company Bronte, as well as Australian leatherworks company Volo, which offers simple yet beautiful leather products.
Gloria Sandrucci, event manager of Pure London Footwear and Accessories said: “The curated footwear and accessory edit for SS18 is exciting and fresh. I am very pleased that Footwear this season will be a Destination Area at Pure London with a proper sense of community located entirely upstairs. The section has also increased and will offer a great mix of international and British brands, many of whom are exclusively showcasing at Pure London.”
Pure London takes place from July 23-25 at London Olympia.
Images: courtesy of Pure London
- Don-Alvin Adegeest |
OPINION Pitti peacocks aside, the biannual fair Pitti Imagine for menswear is a tradeshow for reliable fashion.
Overheard from many a buyer's lips, the 'newsness' factor remains something of a lesser presence amongst the cavernous buildings housing swathes of brands, designers and products.
Many booths are filled with the same brands, who return season after season to the same location, showcasing collections that are consistent and steady, but not so bold in the arena of directional fashion. But, they are likely decent business partners for the international stores who stock them, highlighting the fact that fairs are good for business too.
Pitti is good for public relations
Pitti, of course, is a marvelous exercise in pr. The Cornaliani agent sums it up as relationship building. Much ado about meeting, greeting, and discussing the industry at large. Less so about writing orders.
Some brands cement their presence without any product, focusing only on image. Italian shoe brand Premiata, for example, have only one pair of shoes on display, flatpacked in plastic, decorating their entry. Buyers are instead directed to their showroom, perhaps later in the season. Other brands, like Italian lifestyle connoisseur Brunello Cucinelli, have created entire worlds to showcase their brand - foliage, statues and art included.
Less hysterical this time are the chaps dressed-up, expertly camera-ready for the many street style photographers that stand outside the fair's entry. Perhaps because menswear has now become so important, there is a real sense of commerciality and financial focus.
Companies like Canada Goose, Herno and PT01 are showing customers how important they are to the menswear mix. With new product categories on offer, there is a sense of healthy expansion, not of the 'nobody is buying' vibe from a few seasons ago.
Perhaps that is the newness, buying brands that are already familiar to us, who's products we know and trust.
Photo credit: Pitti Uomo, Don-Alvin Adegeest