20 years on: A look back at Copenhagen Fashion Week’s evolution over two decades

Copenhagen Fashion Week (CPHFW) has officially entered its 20th year. The Danish event, which has roots in commercial trade, has grown to become an influential player in the global fashion agenda, giving it the status of the “fifth fashion capital”.

Its positioning has seen it drive forward eco-conscious values across the industry, and broader collaboration has allowed it to widen its inclusion of designers. This coming edition, running from January 27 to 30, 2026, intends to highlight the progress the fashion week has made over two decades, with what is expected to be a record number of visitors and a celebratory cultural programme to span the whole year.

In a statement, Cecilie Thorsmark, CEO of CPHFW, said: “Marking 20 years is first and foremost a moment to recognise the strength of the Nordic fashion community. CPHFW has grown alongside the industry, and our role has always been to create a platform that brings people together, supports new voices and helps position Nordic fashion within a global context. As we look ahead, our focus remains on how fashion can continue to develop responsibly, creatively and collaboratively.”

According to Danmarks Statistik, since CPHFW’s inception in 2006, the local fashion industry’s revenue has grown 24 percent, making fashion the country’s third largest export commodity. International demand has influenced the rise, with exports growing 84 percent, making up two thirds of the Danish fashion industry’s total revenue.

As the AW26 edition kicks off, FashionUnited looks back at some of CPHFW’s defining moments, from its inception to its status as a sustainable fashion driver.

2006: The fashion week launches

The first CPHFW was launched following a merger between Danish trade fairs, Dansk Modeuge and Dansk Herremordeuge, which date back to the 1950s. The consolidation resulted in the creation of a biannual event taking place in January/February and August, with runways, exhibitions and presentations making up the schedule.

Early editions were led by founding CEO Eva Kruse, who oversaw the building of the event’s initial foundations and in turn solidifying the fashion week’s global reputation.

2018: A strategic shift under new management

CPHFW officially underwent a strategic shift in 2018 when Cecilie Thorsmark took the helm as CEO. Under her leadership, an advisory board was established, headed by industry professionals. In Futurum was also brought on as a Knowledge Partner, with the goal of forming a sustainability strategy for the fashion week.

2020: Sustainability requirements first introduced

This strategy was then unveiled in 2020. A Sustainability Action Plan introduced minimum standards in order for brands to be included in the event’s schedule. This framework, the first of its kind of a major fashion week, was celebrated by the wider industry.

To further underline CPHFW’s intention, the event launched its Sustainability Award with Zalando. Through the initiative, which also backed Zalando’s green strategy ‘do.More’, CPHFW looked to unite eco-action plans to extend its influence.

2021: Broader industry involvement

CPHFW sought to establish ties with other industry leaders, and thus began establishing relationships with Nordic organisations, both to enhance its schedule and to broaden the reach of its sustainability requirements. It launched partnerships with the likes of Oslo Runway and Danish trade show CIFF.

2022: NewTalent is introduced

A major shift came about in 2022, when CPHFW introduced its NewTalent programme. The talent incubator, which continues on today, intends to serve as a foundational support for Nordic talent at the early stages of their business. The initiative backs selected participants through funding opportunities, mentoring and exhibiting. The programme has since expanded to include a patronage programme, allowing the likes of Ganni, Pandora and Vanguards Group to support emerging brands.

2023: Sustainability requirements edited

From CPHFW’s January 2023 edition, its sustainability standards became mandatory for all brands on the official show schedule. Internal policies were then outlined in a 2023-2025 Action Plan, in which 220 targets were set to minimise ecological footprint. Among the strategy was that of measuring greenhouse gas emissions from event-related activities, as the organisation looked to then establish efforts to reduce its impact.

CPHFW also extended its partnership with Zalando, adding the Zalando Visionary Award to its programme for the SS24 season. The new award sought to recognise emerging talent and their efforts towards social impact and sustainability through design and innovation.

2024: Standards are revised

By 2024, CPHFW’s sustainability standards had been rolled out, meaning that revisions had become necessary as the industry and participants responded to implementation. In March, the organisation released updated and stricter requirements to then be introduced in 2025. Much of these looked to align with new EU policies coming into play.

To further the implementation of these standards, the fashion week received supportive funding through a shared grant pool of the Ministry of Culture and the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, focused on the roll out of international partnerships.

2025: Sustainability challenges

CPHFW’s approach to sustainability implementation began to inspire other industry events. After establishing a relationship with Berlin Fashion Week, the fashion week partnered with London Fashion Week organiser British Fashion Council (BFC) and Amsterdam Fashion Week in embedding its Minimum Standards across other events. It further hosted a roundtable discussion during New York Climate Week, pointing to a wider rollout. Its updated Sustainability Requirements were then implemented into its AW26 edition following a pilot over the previous seasons.

Despite its efforts, CPHFW has not managed to escape industry scrutiny. The organisation faced an investigation by the Danish Consumer Ombudsman into its sustainability framework after brands like Baum und Pferdgarten, Herskind and Stine Goya were accused of greenwashing due to shortfalls in their eco-messaging. Experts accused the fashion week of lacking enforcement of its standards, while some brands called for stricter standards on the likes of animal products.

It was determined in the latter half of the year that the market watchdog would not commence legal action against the fashion week or several of its participating brands. Thorsmark said CPHFW had “put a lot of effort into developing an ambitious and thorough system first and foremost serving as a framework tool for upgrading the brands we work with, but also constituting an important entry criterion for at all being included in our official calendar”.

2026: International partnerships continue

Coming into 2026, CPHFW has introduced a new ‘Homecoming’ slot for established Nordic brands returning to the schedule. This year, Holzweiler will be taking up the inaugural role after previously showing in London over recent seasons.

The fashion week will also be broadening its international horizons. Alongside a new partnership with Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid, Nazzal Studio, the first Palestinian label to show on-schedule, will be making its debut. Copenhagen-based British designer Sarah Brunnhuber will also be joining the NewTalent programme, while Swedish labels Sson and Studio Constance have been selected for the One to Watch programme.