Dries van Noten bids farewell with an ode to fashion and time

What remains of a 40-year career in a world as volatile as fashion? Belgian designer Dries van Noten pondered time and eternity at his last men's show during Paris Fashion Week.

A navy coat falls almost to the ankles, a double-breasted jacket is combined with translucent mesh trousers in deep purple. The colours of the first looks seem rather somber for an SS25 collection. David Bowie's lyrics about the complexity of time could also be heard: "It's something that connects the past and the future, and is never quite in the present."

Dries van Noten - actually known as a master of refined, eclectic print combinations - bids farewell to fashion in the language of clothing. Melancholy resonates in the cool colours white, beige, navy and black, as well as in the clear, classic cuts. But underlined by reflections on time in the show's music, the collection also seems to search for something timeless in fashion.

Fashion between transience and eternity

Transparent coats and blouses are not only in line with the trend of the times, they also seem so fleeting and ethereal, as if they were meant for eternity. Baroque patterns embroidered with gold metallic threads in Van Noten's unmistakable style refer to the past, while a top completely interwoven with silver threads looks futuristic.

Likewise the catwalk - the silver flakes kicked up by the models are worthy of a funeral procession, but at the same time the material of the metal foils evokes the future. And at the same time, they also create a festive mood towards the end of the show - the models' looks become lighter, more colourful and more playful, a large, glittering disco ball appears in the background.

Dries van Noten in the future

Designer Dries van Noten's career may be coming to an end, but he is not completely saying goodbye to the fashion world. He told trade magazine WWD that he will still be advising his eponymous label. Although the timing of his current departure came suddenly, there has been speculation since the sale of his label to Puig.

Since 2018, the former member of the "Antwerp Six" has only held a minority stake in the brand, having sold the majority to the now publicly traded Spanish fashion and fragrance group - on the sole condition that the headquarters remain in Belgium. The upcoming SS25 women's collection is already being designed by his team, who will also jointly take over the creative direction in the future. Dries van Noten now wants to dedicate himself to things he has not had time for until now.

This article was originally published on FashionUnited DE. Translated by AI, edited by Rachel Douglass.