Fashion's pendulum swings away from quiet luxury

For the past multiple seasons, in what feels like an eternity in the fashion sphere, the quiet luxury trend, which began after the pandemic, has reigned over the catwalks, zeitgeist, and the media. Dressing down was the new dressing up. Even words like "demure" and "mindful", a meme that first embraced good behavior and not standing out in the crowd, trickled down to fashion. In short, clothes became just that, background, boring and devoid of personality.

Be it a simple t-shirt from Uniqlo or The Row, the difference is seen only in the quality of cloth, and even for that one would have to look closely, to appreciate the craft of Italian stitching over a Chinese factory's fast fashion production. In essence, in a globalized fashion industry, the line between mass-market and luxury items has become increasingly blurred. This phenomenon is particularly evident when comparing seemingly simple items like t-shirts from brands across the price spectrum.

While the illusion of difference on closer inspection does reveal differences such as hand-finished details or more precise machine work, many assume a stark divide between "Far East factory" and "European craftsmanship."

But the status symbol of quiet luxury, even if there are subtle differences, has become mass market too. The Loro Piana slip-on suede loafers (820 euros) that have epitomized the QL movement, have found near-identical styles on the high street, from Massimo Dutti (89 euros) to Suitsupply (249 euros). The most obvious difference being price.

On the catwalk, the pendulum had for many seasons been swinging to the same effect: beautifully constructed clothes, meant to last a lifetime, but so pared down they lost personality.

Homogenisation of style

Intriguingly, designers and CEOs have continued to champion the minimalist aesthetic (with the latter likely pressuring the former). Luxury houses and runways from New York to Paris have showcased beautifully constructed garments designed for longevity, yet so stripped down they risked losing their distinctive character. This trend, while aligning with growing consumer demand for sustainability, has inadvertently led to a homogenisation of style. It should also be noted that following economic downturns, there's often a shift towards more understated luxury. Ostentatious displays of wealth can be seen as insensitive during times of financial hardship for many.

Furthermore, there is a long-term value proposition being marketed: Minimalist pieces are often portrayed as timeless investments, appealing to consumers looking for longevity in their purchases. Based on that theory, a pink flamenco ruffle skirt would have an expiration date.

But this democratisation of fashion, accelerated by social media and fast-fashion retailers, has paradoxically resulted in a loss of the industry's fantastical element. While the global apparel market continues to expand, it may be at the cost of creativity and individuality.

The pendulum reverses

However, as is the nature of fashion, the pendulum has begun to swing in the opposite direction. Brands are seeing the value of bona fide experienced designers as opposed to hype appointments, and the catwalks have already begun to move away from the timeless theme. New York Fashion Week, traditionally a bellwether for sportswear trends, showcased a shift in aesthetic sensibilities.

Proenza Schouler, for instance, boldly departed from the minimalist wardrobe, instead presenting innovative designs with intriguing details. Their collection featured asymmetric striped tops with flowing trains and trousers adorned with juxtaposing buttons at the hems, paired with structured jackets. This move towards more complex designs reflects a growing desire for uniqueness in a market saturated with basics.

The saturation of staples

Industry observers point out that most consumers already possess the ubiquitous staples of a minimalist wardrobe - the navy t-shirt, the black tailored jacket, the simple jeans. These items, while forming the backbone of many wardrobes, do not require frequent repurchasing. There's growing evidence that clothing utilization - the average number of times a garment is worn - has decreased compared to previous decades, indicating a need for more distinctive and better quality pieces that inspire longer-term use.

Individual style

In Milan, Prada made waves by presenting a diverse array of looks, eschewing the common practice of iterating on a single style - a formula often employed to appease merchandisers and department stores. This bold move challenges the conventional wisdom that eclectic looks are difficult to sell, with store buyers traditionally preferring easily marketable, coordinated collections that lend themselves to straightforward visual merchandising.

The strategy aligns with changing consumer behaviors, as more shoppers are reportedly changing their purchase preferences based on social responsibility, inclusiveness, or environmental impact of their purchases.

Valentino's New Chapter

Perhaps the most significant indicator of this new era in fashion came with Alessandro Michele's debut at Valentino. Unlike his tenure at Gucci, characterized by a distinctive 'geek chic' aesthetic, Michele's first show for Valentino struck a balance between nostalgia and sophistication.

By combining his penchant for historical references with Valentino's unrivaled expertise in haute couture and ready-to-wear, Michele has tapped into a growing consumer desire for individuality. This approach resonates with younger consumers who, according to various industry reports, often prefer customized products and are willing to pay a premium for them.

The future of fashion

As the industry pivots away from quiet luxury, it enters a new phase that celebrates individuality and craftsmanship. This shift is not merely aesthetic but reflects broader societal changes - a reaction to the homogenization brought about by globalization and fast fashion.

The luxury goods market is expected to continue growing, and the industry's challenge will be to balance this renewed creativity with the ongoing demands for sustainability and ethical production.

The pendulum's swing towards more expressive fashion not only promises a revival of the industry's fantastical elements but also potentially heralds a more sustainable approach to consumption - one where distinctive, well-crafted pieces are treasured and worn for years to come.