Are luxury brands returning to designer expertise?

In a not unexpected announcement by Givenchy, the LVMH-operated brand finally confirmed its new creative director after an uncharacteristically protracted search. The appointment of Sarah Burton, following the departure of Matthew Williams, signals a potentially transformative moment not just for the brand, but for the industry at large.

The prolonged vacancy at Givenchy's helm, lasting nearly a year, was a subject of intense speculation within fashion circles. Mr Williams' exit, confirmed in December of the previous year, had been presaged by months of rumours, fuelled by the brand's perceived struggle to maintain its cultural cachet. The fashion world, ever attuned to the slightest tremors of change, had long anticipated his exit.

When the announcement finally came that Ms Burton would assume the mantle, with her inaugural collection slated for 2025, it became clear that this was no hasty decision. Sources close to the matter suggest that LVMH conducted an exhaustive search, interviewing multiple candidates before settling on Burton. The process was further elongated by a management restructuring within LVMH and the appointment of Alessandro Valenti as Givenchy's new CEO in July. Additionally, contractual negotiations with Ms Burton and discussions surrounding the potential revival of Givenchy's haute couture line are believed to have contributed to the delay.

However, Ms Burton's appointment is noteworthy beyond the circumstances of its timing. It represents a broader industry trend: a return to "proper" designers at the helm of major fashion houses. This shift follows a period where celebrity stylists and social media influencers were often favoured for their ability to generate buzz and engagement. The pendulum appears to be swinging back towards individuals with formal training in design and garment construction, as evidenced by recent appointments such as Pieter Mulier at Alaïa and Chemena Kamali at Chloé.

Demand for experienced, formally trained designers

This trend extends beyond the realm of haute couture. Even fast fashion behemoth Uniqlo has recognised the value of cohesive creative direction, appointing Clare Waight Keller as its first creative director. This move underscores the growing understanding that a unified vision, guided by an experienced designer, can benefit an entire organisation across its myriad collections.

The industry's pivot towards design expertise comes at a crucial juncture. The Chinese market, long a reliable engine of growth for luxury brands, has shown signs of cooling. The era when European luxury houses could rely on logo-centric designs to drive sales in China appears to be waning. Chinese consumers, grappling with their own economic challenges, have become increasingly discerning in their luxury purchases. This evolving landscape demands a more nuanced approach to design and branding.

As the dust settles on this latest round of creative musical chairs, two distinct strategies are emerging in the fashion world. On one side are the "fashiontainment" brands, exemplified by Louis Vuitton's menswear line and Tommy Hilfiger, which prioritise spectacle and social media engagement. On the other are houses like Chloé and The Row, which have doubled down on craftsmanship and wearability.

Fashiontainment versus craftsmanship

In this context, Givenchy's choice of Sarah Burton – a designer renowned for her technical prowess and artistic vision – seems particularly telling. It suggests a bet on substance over spectacle, on the enduring appeal of expertly crafted garments rather than fleeting trends. As the industry navigates an increasingly complex global market, such a strategy may prove prescient.

The coming years will reveal whether this return to design fundamentals can reinvigorate brands like Givenchy and reignite consumer passion in key markets. What is clear, however, is that the luxury fashion industry is at an inflection point. The outcome of this shift towards "proper" designers could reshape the landscape for years to come.