Milan Fashion Week FW24: Key colours and fabrics

Milan Fashion Week FW24 ran from Tuesday, February 20 through Monday, February 26, 2024. Of the 58 collections and 2,742 looks presented, most of the buzz centered on a handful of shows, including those at Prada, Bottega Veneta and Moschino.

Adrian Appiolaza took over at Moschino less than four weeks before the show. He was quoted as saying that he picked iconic points of Franco (Moschino). Indeed, the Argentinian designer, who spent a decade at Loewe, showed his metal with a collection that was light years away from those of the ‘king of camp,’ Jeremy Scott, but still with enough slogans and smiley faces to satisfy brand loyalists.

Meanwhile, at Bottega Veneta, Matthieu Blazy really hit his stride, in this, his third outing for the brand. In his own words he elevated “everyday garments to their apogee”.

And then there was Prada. It’s not often that American Vogue features a designer on the cover; but with Mrs. Prada, they made an exception. As Logan Roy would say, she is considered “serious people,” and so it was interesting to note that the starting point for her and co-designer Raf Simons for the FW24 season, was the bow.

According to TikTok, the recent penchant for bows reflects a Gen Z desire to hold onto youth and reject adult responsibility. At a time when the world seems obsessed with the question, ‘How old is too old?,’ Mrs. Prada showed that, at the age of 74, she still has her finger on the pulse of what is relevant in today’s world of fashion.

Blue Sky Thinking

In a season somewhat devoid of colour, shades of pale blue emerged as a key colour on several runways in Milan. It’s a colour that stands alone or works as a coloured neutral to work with brights or even monochromes. It’s a cheerful colour to use in the winter months.

Bally: designer, Simone Bellotti

Look 44: a pale blue leather mid-length shirt dress with a knotted waist detail. Accessories included lace-up wedge shoes and a bright red mini satchel.

Blumarine: designer, Walter Chiapponi

Look 12: a pale blue jumpsuit with a polo collar in a rib knit with Lurex thread, a skinny bow necklace, loafers and a dark red leather bag completed the look.

Jil Sander: designers, Luke and Lucie Meier

Look 4: a cocoon-shaped pale blue wool midi-length dress with rounded shoulders and seamed details. A black cap, faux fur mini satchel and camel-coloured boots were among the accessories.

Prada: designers, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons

Look 16: a mock-turtleneck pale blue sleeveless shift dress with white scrollwork detailing the seams and hem over a white slip, plus a purple feather helmet and black knee-boots.

In The Army

As seen in New York, a specific shade of olive green was shown on many Milanese runways. It’s a military color that perhaps reflects the scenes of war constantly bombarding our screens. It was also an alternative to black for all manner of garments.

Alberta Ferretti

Look 16: a maxi length dress in olive green with a crew neck, rounded shoulders and pleated skirt.

Gucci: designer. Sabato De Sarno

Look 3: a deep vee wool cashmere tunic with a matching scarf and shorts in a colour De Sarno called ‘rotten,’ with a lime green mini satchel and burgundy leather over-the-knee boots.

MM6 Maison Margiela

Look 3: an olive-green wool tunic with elevated shoulder pads was shown over a black silk slip with a frayed hem and black leather thigh high boots. Red visor style sunglasses finished the look.

Philosophy by Lorenzo Serafini

Look 11: a ‘fifties style olive-green coat with teddy texture, rounded shoulders and pearl pin closure, accessories included a black leather framed handbag and black leather lace-ups.

Passion Play

Three-quarters of the way through the FW24 runway season, the major bright colour will undoubtedly be a particular shade of intense red, seen in New York and in Europe. At Ferrari, the show notes stated that “Red, is present, … as reminder of that passion, emotion and desire that the body is capable of”.

Ferrari: designer, Rocco Iannone

Look 3: an oversized cotton knit polo shirt with a red patent maxi skirt with a matching mini bag, moto gloves and ballet flats in the ‘rosso corsa’ shade.

Sportmax

Look 27: a red mohair mock turtle neck corset-style top with patent details and mid-length skirt attached with silver hook and eye fasteners.

Martino Midali

Look 13: a bright red slim cut mid-length coat with red suede boots and a wide brimmed red fedora.

Versace: designer, Donatella Versace

Look 67: a red leather knee-length dress with a corset top and gathering around the hips, matching gloves and strappy booties finished the look.

Shoulder On

When it came to fabric choices, leather, and particularly black leather, dominated the Milan runways. In a departure from recent seasons, it was used to create shapes with volume, especially at the shoulder.

Bottega Veneta: designer, Matthieu Blazy

Look 25: a black leather dress with rounded shoulders, slashed neckline and a gored skirt, accessorized with a textured handbag and black clogs.

Iceberg

Look 40: a black leather mid-length coat with oversized shoulders, black patent pointed toe shoe and black leather tote.

Maison Yoshiki

Look 14: a black leather mini coat dress with maximal batwing sleeves and a sash style self-belt, accessorized with black sneakers and ankle socks.

No.21: designer, Alessandro Dell’Acqua

Look 11: a black leather DB car coat with a matching knee-length pleated skirt and black pointed toe slingbacks.

Mixed Media

In a season with limited colour and print varieties, texture was all-important on Milan’s runways. It also spoke to the seasonal trend for offering consumers, coziness and comfort in cocoon shapes. Several designers offered interesting mixes of fabrics with surface interest and other contrasting textures. At Prada, that contrast was shown in the same garment, for example, sturdy tweed in front and embroidered silk in back.

Moschino: designer, Adrian Appiolaza

Look 7: an oversized ginger brown cable-knit sweater, a red ruffled wool skirt with an up and down hemline and grey wool pants. Accessories included a red fedora with a high crown, a pearl necklace and strappy sandals.

Luisa Spagnoli

Look 19: an off-the-shoulder dark red oversized sweater, a dark red sequined skirt with a dark red knit beanie and socks plus red leather Mary-Janes.

Fendi: designer, Kim Jones

Look 57: a mock-turtleneck top in a dark green textured knit with ribbed waist and cuffs and a single beige arm warmer over a transparent layered green skirt with green and pink embellishments. A logoed mini bag and brown leather boots accessorized the look.

Prada: designers, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons

Look 8: a grey plaid DB jacket and a skirt in a mix of plaid and pink silk. Accessories included a brown feathered helmet, clear glasses and pink satin slingbacks.