Trend reset for SS25: menswear softens and sets practical focus

Summer may be a long way off this year in terms of temperatures, but the world of fashion – or rather menswear – is already looking forward to spring/summer 2025. The coming season will break with tradition by starting in London rather than Florence, before returning to the schedule with a pit stop in Milan and ending in Paris. However, it is not only the itineraries that are changing, but also the playgrounds of some designers. Marine Serre and Paul Smith will present their collections on the catwalk at Pitti Uomo in Florence, Martine Rose will make her debut in Milan, and London has opted for a revised format focusing on cultural talks and exhibitions.

No matter how many changes the new season and its calendar may bring, one thing remains the same: SS25 will come with a set of trends and core styles that will dictate fashion for months to come. But what can the industry expect to see next season, and what should buyers be looking out for? FashionUnited turned to trend forecasting agency FashionSnoops for a sneak peek ahead of the start of the menswear season.

'Practical Reset'

Eclectic grandpas, Tenniscore, the return of the Wild West and remnants of 'Quiet Luxury' — the current trendscape is about as consistent as the weather. And much like the ever-changing weather, and its lack of permanency, trends and the speed at which they are currently being churned out, especially on social media, has left some consumers feeling rather tired. “The acceleration of trends through social media has contributed to a trend fatigue for many consumers,” explained Jason Kress, senior strategist of menswear at Fashion Snoops. Cue ‘Practical Reset', a trend prediction for SS25, which sees a return to heritage items to slow down not only the passage of time, but also consumption. Unlike most trends, designed to entice and promote the latest and greatest of the season, 'Practical Reset' is bound to encourage a slower, more conscious way of consuming.

Much like Quiet Luxury before, 'Practical Reset' is based on the idea of 'real clothes'. Practicality, subtle utility and comfort are key, although aesthetically the trend relies on clean lines and contemporary versions of classic styles, swapping comfortable staples such as jogging bottoms or hoodies for the aforementioned heritage items. Trench coats, ribbed tanks and blue jeans represent durability, utility and reliability, and have emerged from a renewed interest in the revival of older, traditional processes like patchwork, darning, woodcut and manual dyeing.

“It’s essentially the antithesis of buying or designing clothes made for Instagram — these clothes don't try too hard, they don’t overreach their influence, and they simply belong in every man’s collection of wardrobe essentials,” said Kress.

Cut from the same cloth as 'Practical Reset', FashionSnoops menswear analyst Michael Leahy proposes a seasonal narrative entitled Open Air. Based on the idea of contemporary workwear – think cargo trousers, chore jackets, work shirts – and the evolution of the style that originated in 90s hip-hop and skater fashion, Open Air re-evaluates the trend and its place in menswear today.

“Our seasonal narrative Open Air epitomises trustworthy garments that are worn effortlessly yet entirely capable,” explained Leahy. “The idea that these accessible, made-to-last, practical garments are so precisely crafted and well-made lends itself to what many men want these days: Everyday practicality with versatile levels of wearability.”

Streamlining a wardrobe with versatile workwear staples for SS25 allows effortless transitions without the need of excess purchasing. This approach simplifies choices and encourages thoughtful investment in quality pieces that reflect personal style. By focusing on fewer, more adaptable garments, customers can take the time to choose brands that align with their values and prioritise sustainability.

'Softer Side'

Menswear and womenswear are not only sharing the runways, they are also borrowing from each other when it comes to style. 'Softer Side', as FashionSnoops calls the trend for SS25, encourages men to explore the links between confidence and sensuality. The trend, as the name suggests, encourages men to get in touch with their 'Softer Side', taking inspiration from womenswear without imitating it.

“'Softer Side' is a renewed focus on the 'Softer Side' of being a man – the base layers and loungewear-inspired apparel that become his foundation every day,” stated Leahy.

Men are increasingly embracing their sensuality, blending elements of womenswear in ways that feel natural. They're finding innovative methods to infuse the essence of "summertime romance" into traditional menswear.

Additionally, traditional menswear staples such as tailored suits have given way to airy, elongated designs and soft fabrics like silk, organza and sheer chiffon, once associated only with womenswear. Draped silhouettes, as seen at Saint Laurent, where halternecks and off-the-shoulder tops made an appearance on the men's catwalk, proved that garments once read as feminine are entering the realm of menswear.

Elsewhere, precisely tailored suits, akin to bespoke tailoring, are counterbalanced by lightweight fabrics used for shirts, or subverted by subtle but striking changes to classic proportions.

The evolution of these garments represents more than a change in fabric and cut. They signify a wider cultural shift towards a relaxed yet refined aesthetic where fashion is, to some extent, removed from gender. Designers are exploring new ways to blend structural and societal ease, creating pieces that move with the body and offer a new sense of freedom.