A visit to the 3D NXT LEVEL 3.0 event at AMFI: Innovations and data driving digital fashion

Gathering at the Amsterdam Fashion Institute on November 21st and 22nd , more than 150 fashion professionals and students came together to share and collect insights into developments in the field of 3D Technology and Design. The two day event, 3D NXT LEVEL 3.0, co-organised by the IAF and sponsored by Alvanon and the Abstadt- Sigmaringen University, strove to offer insights into the product and process innovations in digital product creation (DPC), from sourcing to sales.

Featuring talks by brands such as INDG and the Fabricant, FashionUnited had the opportunity to attend the second day of the event to learn more about developments in the world of 3D fashion.

AMFI and The 2040 Fashion of the Future

The way forward for implementing and optimising 3D technology in fashion depends highly on collaboration but also education. This idea seems to resonate through all the talks of the well-visited event. Kicking off day two was Prof. dr. ir. Troy Nachtigall from AMFI and TU Eindhoven, with a vision on The 2040 Fashion of the Future, serving as a reminder of where the industry’s 3D and technological developments are heading. Furthermore, how can they assist in ensuring the meeting of the EPR (Extended Producer Responsibility) goals and legislations?

Nachtigall emphasized that this is the most important time for the sector since the 1880’s, and stressed the transformation required in the fashion industry to meet European climate-neutrality goals by 2030 and achieve full circularity by 2040. Digital design/fashion workflow tools such as Clo and Alvanon are becoming central to sustainability and efficiency through real time sampling, whilst AI and machine learning are simplifying complex systems like textiles, fit, and adaptive designs. AMFI shared that in the new curriculum design students start learning the digital software and physical patterncutting at the same time.

Nachtigall brought up an interesting point likening fabric to data. At AMFI, they treat data as a material— a clay which can be moulded, shaping textures, experiences, and even entire garments. By viewing data this way, industry professionals can unlock new possibilities in design, transforming how they create and innovate across the entire fashion chain.

Customisable content at scale: INDG’s collaboration with Speedo

The company INDG demonstrated how digital innovation is transforming the industry on a sample and asset level, through their work with CGI, automated content generation and digital twin generation. In a Q&A, panel-like format, they discussed their collaboration with Speedo, showcasing the benefits of moving away from traditional workflows and embracing 3D content creation. By using automation pipelines, INDG helped Speedo to produce over 16,000 photorealistic renders in a single season, accelerating timelines and eliminating the need for physical samples.

INDG acknowledged the hurdles of integrating 3D technology in an industry rooted in traditional methods. Convincing stakeholders to embrace digital workflows and move beyond “no sample, no sale” mentalities remains a challenge. However, their work with Speedo demonstrates the potential of 3D to not only improve efficiency but also align with sustainability goals by reducing physical waste. INDG herein also stressed the importance of engaging all stakeholders in the transition and use of 3D technology: "Engaging all stakeholders—design, development, sales, and merchandising—is essential for a smooth transition to 3D workflows.”

Tess van Zalinge and The Fabricant

Standing on familiar grounds, AMFI alumni and designer Tess Van Zalinge highlighted the freedom 3D technology offers, enabling prototyping and creative exploration without the constraints of traditional methods. Utilising Alvanon 3D models, she was able to design Couture garments on a size 44. She found that challenges like adapting designs to avatars and fine-tuning physical fits show the importance of still combining digital and physical processes. For Van Zalinge, 3D design is not just a tool but a gateway to reimagining couture for diverse sizes and audiences.

The Fabricant, a pioneering digital fashion house, inititiated by an AMFI alumni, presented a compelling vision for the future of digital fashion at the event. Their mission—to create a more sustainable, equitable, and creative fashion industry—has driven their work since their establishment in Amsterdam in 2018. Highlighting projects like their $10,000 digital garment sale and luxury brand collaborations with Maison Margiela and Caterpillar, The Fabricant underscored the scalability and environmental benefits of digital fashion, where a single item can be replicated infinitely without physical production.

Central to their talk was the integration of AI tools to democratize design. Their upcoming Fabricant Intelligent Tools platform allows users to transform sketches into photorealistic 3D models, bypassing the need for physical prototypes. By automating complex processes like pattern extraction and virtual trials, they aim to streamline the journey from concept to marketing images and making participation in digital fashion more accessible.

Collaborative attitudes in the implementation of 3D technological processes

The day concluded with closing remarks and a luncheon, leaving attendees inspired yet faced with questions on translating large-scale 3D innovations into practical solutions for smaller companies. Reflecting on INDG’s talk and Bershka’s presentation on impressive in-house 3D operations the day before, many wondered how these technologies could be adapted on a smaller scale. The consensus, as highlighted in the closing remarks, was clear: effective implementation doesn’t require flashy conferences or endless meetings. Instead, it demands a focus on identifying specific challenges, finding tailored solutions and engaging stakeholders across the entire company or outside of it.

Smaller companies don’t need to replicate the scale of Bershka’s operations or Speedo’s 16,000 renders. The key is to align 3D technology with the unique demands of their own businesses. According to Prof. Dr.-Ing. Christian Kaiser in the closing remarks, moving forward, the industry must prioritize asking the right questions, abstracting challenges into tangible steps, and addressing dedicated problems with systemic solutions. This collaborative, problem-solving approach will be crucial for ensuring that 3D technology becomes an accessible and scalable tool across the fashion landscape.

Event photography: Willem de Kam, Instagram: @willemdekam_