Prints and Patterns: monograms, logos and slogans for AW24
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Fall/Winter 2024 will be seen as a season where, from sweaters to outerwear and for every type of garment in-between, texture and surface interest was a top trend. Prints where they did appear tended to be on the loud side. In addition to the ubiquitous animal prints and menswear patterns, designers returned to using house monograms, logos and slogans in larger sizes than of late.
Tracing the Trend
In the US, branding on the outside of clothing began around 1887 when gold prospectors wore denim pants. The Levi Strauss company realized that not all of their customers could read but could come to stores asking for the goods with the “two horses” picture!
A few years later, in 1896, George Vuitton, son of Louis Vuitton, started using the interlocking LV letters to prevent counterfeiting of the company’s new line of travel trunks. 128 years later, Nicolas Ghesquière photo-printed images of the logoed trunks onto dresses.
Coco Chanel designed the interlocking C's in 1925 as a homage to a monastery in Aubazine, where she spent most of her childhood. She was said to have been inspired by the geometric patterns of stained-glass windows in the chapel at the monastery. Again, that same logo is used today, 100 years later.
Pelagia Kolotouros presented a FW24 collection for Lacoste, filled with references to the original brand. The tennis player René Lacoste, whose nickname was ‘The Alligator.’ founded the company in the 1920’s. The crocodile motif has appeared on the company’s clothing since 1933.
Using ostentatious logos and monograms, also known as 'logomania', came to the fore in the 1980s and reached its zenith in the early 2000s. While discrete logos and monograms have trended in recent seasons, for FW24, designers with legacy fashion companies often used prints and patterns with outré branding propositions. In some cases, trompe l'oeil designs were worked into the prints.
Logos and Monograms
Designers used monograms in repeat patterns, both large and small in size, along with classic renditions of brand logos.Chanel: designer, Virginie Viard
Look 59: the Chanel name in purple was incorporated into a zigzag print design in shades of green for a jacket, blouse and flowing pants.
Christian Dior: designer, Maria Grazia Chiuri
Look 49: the Dior logo was rendered in a navy and white repeat print for a shirt dress under denim separates.
GCDS: designer, Giuliano Calza
Look 12: The GCDS monogram in a large-scale grey and cream repeat print was shown on a wool coat over leather shorts. A satchel in the same leather as the shorts, finished the look.
Lacoste: designer, Pelagia Kolotouros
Look 26: The Lacoste crocodile logo was used to create a print of orange and brown on a pale blue background for a tunic which had a burgundy collar and cuffs and matching pleated long skirt. The tunic and skirt were both trimmed with stripes. Accessories included a snake belt, athletic socks and black sneakers.
Ottolinger: designer, Cosima Gadient and Christa Bösch
Look 27: The Ottolinger logo was printed on the neck, cuffs and hem of a shrunken tee-shirt with a trompe l’oeil folkloric design. It was shown with bright yellow vinyl pants.
Louis Vuitton: designer, Nicolas Ghesquière
Look 15: a sculpted mini dress was photo-printed with the Louis Vuitton logo, initials and a trompe l’oeil rendering of the brand’s trunks. Oversized fur mittens and spectator lace-ups finished the look.
Slogans and Words
In a world filled with political turmoil and wars on two fronts, designers used words and phrases that projected optimism and fun.Blumarine: designer, Walter Chiapponi
Look 18: a white tee-shirt had the words “I love you” in a red repeat print and was shown with a bright yellow midi-skirt with a white lace trim. A black clutch and satin pumps completed the look.
Moschino: designer, Adrian Appiolaza
Look 28: The word “Peace” in white was placed longways on a black wool turtle-necked dress.
Sagaboi: Geoff K Cooper
Look 24: The phrase ‘sweet tings’ in red, was stitched onto a white cap sleeved tee shirt and teamed up with a turquoise sequined mini skirt trimmed with ruffles and matching boots. The hair was coiled into Princess Leia-esque buns with yellow and red ribbons.
Conner Ives
Look 10: The designer’s last name was used for a print placement for an ice-cream ‘ad’ in blue and red on a white popcorn knit top matched to a plaid flared mini skirt, with black boots and a cap with a white feather.
Puma: designer, Heiko Desens
Look 4: a long black fuzzy sweater dress with the words “Machts Mit Qualitat” (made with quality) in white. A high beanie, sunglasses and spiked sneakers finished the look.
Sportmax
Look 18: a navy wool turtleneck shrug was shown over a white knit top with the slogan ‘camera obscura’ and a navy satin dress. White ankle strap pumps accessorized the look.