- Don-Alvin Adegeest |
The London graduate shows are a headhunter's haven. Scouting for the next generation of talent usually starts at school level, which has seen many a designer's graduation collection snapped up, like Alexander McQueen's Jack the Ripper collection by Issy Blow for 5000 pounds, or John Galliano's Les Incroyables by former Browns owner Mrs Burstein, who bought it for re-sale in her eponymous South Molton Street boutique.
So it is without exception that the Central Saint Martins MA graduate show is one of London Fashion Week’s most highly anticipated events every February, with talent scouts, boutique buyers and journalists all keen to see the industry’s next generation of talent make their first foray onto the catwalk.
It is a chance for the graduates to be seen on the global fashion stage, following in the footsteps of A-list creatives, the aforementioned McQueen and Galliano, but also Phoebe Philo and Stella McCartney, whose stories all began on that very same runway. Curiously, Philo's graduation collection and file have since gone missing, whereas McCartney's CSM collection made headline news following their graduate catwalk show.
This year's outing saw a runway showcasing the collections from 18 designers, potentially a new hotbed of talents who will no doubt be leading the future design houses we know so well. One such talent is Liam Johnson, who's collection featured a white see-through architectural dress with a rectangular hem and sunset print that was exquisite not just for the craft but for the uniqueness of producing something not seen before or tied to the constraints of commerciality. Johnson is a recipient of the L'Wren Scott Scholarship as well as a Lee Alexander MQueen Foundation beneficiary.
Yuhan Wang, another highlight of the show, took inspiration from hotel curtains, tying hand-painted fabrics together to reveal and conceal various aspects of the female body. Wang told Dazed Digital backstage: “The flat I live in faces a hotel, and I see people passing by every day. Everybody wants to see what’s behind the curtain, what stories are playing out. It became a metaphor then, for me, like how women use their clothes to cover themselves, and what kind of stories are they covering up.”
At the forefront of international fashion
Of course it is no wonder that Central Saint Martins attracts the type of talent of this calibre. Its MA Fashion course has an international profile second to none. The school has valuable industry links and it is a fact, not a boast, that its graduates practice professionally at the forefront of international fashion.
CSM says its postgraduate course is about leading not following, which is precisely the strength of London on the international fashion map.
Images: Liam Johnson, Yuhan Wang CSM Graduate show; courtesy of Central Saint Martins Graduate
- Danielle Wightman-Stone |
London Fashion Week is currently in full swing and organiser the British Fashion Council has announced the importance of forging stronger ties with China, as leading Chinese e-tailer Vip.com is confirmed as sponsor for the first time.
As part of its sponsorship of London Fashion Week, Vip.com will be helping British brands and designers to launch into the ever-expanding China market.
In her speech opening LFW, Caroline Rush, chief executive of British Fashion Council, said: “I thank you all, our long-term partners and new partners, in particular Vip.com who join us as a sponsor of London Fashion Week, this season. Vip.com is a leading Chinese e-tailer.
“The teams are here now and all week for those that want to hear more about their platform and their ability to launch businesses into China.”
Jenny Jioe, managing director of fashion at vip.com, added at the event: “The fashion market in China is extraordinarily sophisticated and fast-paced, and hungry for new design talent. Our consumer is aware of London’s creative pedigree, and ready for both news and product. I know from first-hand experience that the brands in London, with all their energy and unbridled creativity, are precisely what we are looking for.”
Vip.com announced as LFW sponsor
Commenting on what Vip.com brings to London-based brands, Rush added: "The nature of working with so many new businesses, is that they don't have the advertising power of the global fashion brands. What they have is incredible products that a fashion-forward Chinese consumer is going to love. Our role is to shine a light on these businesses and work with our partners at Vip.com to introduce these brands to a highly engaged audience in China."
Vip.com is one of China’s top three e-commerce retailers, with annual retail sales of 11.2 billion dollars, 57.8million active customers, over 335 million orders in 2017, and eight individual international sourcing offices. In 2016, Forbes ranked Vip.com as No.2 in its top 100 companies with the highest growth.
The new partnership takes sponsorship at LFW into new, global realms of business and marketing, Paul Tyce, the Chinese e-commerce site's UK country manager explains: "We are going to stage a show that is exclusive run by Vip.com. We will offer live streaming to our customers in China, in-depth cooperation with designers, and fashion and art exhibitions. This isn't just about title sponsorship."
The British Fashion Council is also working with China’s largest retailer JD.com, which is sponsoring the BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund prize for the first time this year. The shortlisted designers for the 200,000 pounds prize and year-long mentorship was announced earlier this week, which includes David Koma, Huishan Zhang, Le Kilt, Marques’ Almeida, Molly Goddard and Rejina Pyo.
Image: Courtesy of Vip.com - Jenny Jioe, Vip.com managing director of fashion and Caroline Rush, chief executive of The British Fashion Council
- AFP |
French designer Roland Mouret launched his latest collection in London on Sunday, aligning with the #MeToo movement in a parade celebrating femininity, independence and sensuality.
In the subterranean concrete lobby of the National Theatre, the London-based designer hosted buyers, journalists, bloggers, fashionistas and other Fashion Week VIPs to highlight his 2018 autumn-winter collection. Models paraded between the ranks of guests following a labyrinthine route set to retro music. Velvet corduroy dresses were worn with transparent tops; soft ties appeared nonchalantly tied around the neck; and lace socks were paired with sandals. Mouret was eager to play with contrasts to explore concepts of femininity -- and his abiding mantra "...we all dress to undress". In red and black, in pale pink or midnight blue, his models subtly revealed garters and low-cut necklines. "Roland Mouret proves that there is practicality in femininity, and femininity is a woman's greatest power," read the collection's accompanying notes.
Mouret told AFP he deliberately chose fabrics reminiscent of the 70s -- "still the highlight of women's liberation" -- for his latest designs as he incorporated the current climate into the collection.
Spanish fashion house Delpozo, a defector from New York Fashion Week, also highlighted its latest offerings on Sunday with a slow and romantic show in the cosy setting of London's Royal Institute of British Architects. The location was an hommage of sorts to creative director Josep Font's past life as an architect. For his 2018 autumn-winter collection, the Catalan drew inspiration from French cubist artist Ines Longevial. Font found the works "radiate a harmonious femininity in shape and colour" and sought to incorporate their "simple lines and curvy silhouettes with luminous hues" into his designs.
Pink provides the basis for the collection, while ivory, camel, canary yellow, chalk blue and navy blue feature too. Shorts are cut wide, skirts long, and the coats hang down to mid-thigh. Shirts are studded with polka dots, ankle boots are sequined and dresses feature floral patterns. Meanwhile the designer has styled two types of belts: an "iconic bow silhouette" and another more "organic and floral" offering inspired by lily pads. "Artisanship of leather at its most delicate expression," proclaims the collection's literature. (AFP)
Photos: Roland Mouret / Catwalkpictures
- Sara Ehlers |
E-commerce brand Vip.com just announced a new partnership with both London Fashion Week and the British Fashion Council.
The Chinese e-tailer is the first from its country to become an official sponsor of London Fashion Week. Vip.com will work with British brands to help them launch on the site and expand their markets. "The fashion market in China is extraordinarily sophisticated and fast paced, and hungry for new design talent," Jenny Jioe, Managing Director of Fashion at Vip.com, said in a statement. "Our consumer is aware of London's creative pedigree, and ready for both news and product. I know from first-hand experience that the brands in London, with all their energy and unbridled creativity, are precisely what we are looking for."
Currently, Vip.com stands as one of China's top three e-commerce retailers. The site has annual retail sales of 11.2 billion dollars according to a statement released by the company. This site also states it has 57.8 million active customers and over 335 million orders in 2017. As the site is based in a different market, the partnership provides a great opportunity for London Fashion Week and its brands. "What they have is incredible products that a fashion-forward Chinese consumer is going to love," Caroline Rush, chief executive of the British Fashion Council, said in a statement. "Our role is to shine a light on these businesses and work with our partners at Vip.com to introduce these brands to a highly engaged audience in China."
- Jackie Mallon |
The nod to emergency services’ uniforms in Raf Simons’s collection for Calvin Klein could have been a metaphor for New York Fashion Week in its entirety. In CPR, the traditional ABC rule is Airway. Breathing, Chest compressions, and unfortunately, for Fall 18 the task of loosening up her clothing and resuscitating the victim was performed again by a passing stranger. Confronted by a fashion week in distress, with New Yorkers pretending not to notice, the Belgian is preserving the American Dream.
As Bruce Weber’s portfolio of all-American adventure evaporates like mist from the Long Island surf, and the velvet rope that linked the fashion industry to Hollywood smolders, and buzzier labels like Delpozo, Altuzarra, Thom Browne, Rodarte, Proenza Schouler and Tome flee to European fashion weeks, the city is left with a club of distinguished colonels polishing their medals and waxing nostalgic about the old days to the music of Cole Porter. At her final show Caroline Herrera was clapped out––to use a corporate term when an employee leaves a company––by a parade of crisp white shirts on the runway, collars popped.
A bullish lack of vision
In a globally-thriving luxury market the big American brands appear risk-averse and meek. The costume of capitalism––pea coats and polo shirts, insignia, crests, logos, and loafers––has been revisited in Coney Island Circus Sideshow-style by Gucci or clinically observed through a normcore filter by Vetements while American houses remain occupied with taking themselves terribly seriously. New York proudly ushers in the fashion month as a buttoned-up, pomaded Poindexter in business casual. It disavows newness in favor of classics based on hollow tradition and corporate-corroborated data. The irony of Simons presenting his acclaimed Calvin Klein show in the former American Stock Exchange Building on floors strewn with popcorn is cutting.
While tumbleweed blows through Donna Karan, and Michael Kors trots out Melania Trump clones, and Robin Givhan of the Washington Post comments of Ralph Lauren, “One sometimes wonders if the design studios at Ralph Lauren are hermetically sealed. Do the windows open? Can any fresh air get in?” we are left hoping that CEO Steven Kolb, and key members of the CFDA, have been summoned around a conference table, and are at least discussing a pacemaker.
Kill your darlings
Recent successful designer placements have shown that hired creative talent doesn’t need to demonstrate a close affinity with an established house to successfully continue its legacy for a new generation. Should a house like Donna Karan languish because there can never be a second Ms Karan? Riccardo Tisci had little in common with Hubert de Givenchy but it didn’t stop him reinventing his house for the millennial. Pre-Klein, Simons had already facilitated Dior’s successful rebound after the house’s expulsion of predecessor John Galliano. Yves Saint Laurent’s soigné, urbane wildchild would not even have bought her drugs from Hedi Slimane’s grungey skulking wasted groupie but sales catapulted during Slimane’s four year tenure. Flamboyant showman John Galliano couldn’t have been more diametrically opposed to the reclusive artiste Martin Margiela but his manipulation of the maison’s manifesto over the last three years has been respectfully irreverent which, according to the Business of Fashion, has led to double-digit growth.
Passion and Profit
Renzo Russo, the brains behind the Galliano/Margiela merger, said of Maison Margiela, ‘It’s a niche brand. I want to have product with real passion, not become the biggest brand in the world.’ BoF goes on to reveal that Renzo “doesn’t anticipate that it will more than double in size from its current position (160 million dollars versus 5 billion dollars in revenue for a mega brand like Chanel).” Placing passion before profit, now that’s bullish thinking. Perhaps the struggling American houses must begin to accept that a creative director’s viewpoint should not be reduced to how well he understands your dna or how tenderly he will handle the archive. He’ll pick it up as he goes along, free from micromanaging, and he should be granted permission to kill your darlings in order to allow a new dialogue to open up around the brand. The result will be an authentic response to a house’s story rather than a memorized but forgettable soundbite.
Cultural appropriation done right
Bringing in a creative from outside the culture of the brand, rather than being a recipe for disaster, can be a life-giving force. It’s cultural appropriation done right. The outsider can revisit history, plucking and discarding and reassembling its codes in the most unexpected ways. Simons received criticism for the surprising decision to place the Kardashians in his ad campaign for Calvin Klein underwear, but it was January’s most viewed ad on Youtube with 15.4 million views which, if it translates to sales, affords him the space to continue his artist collaborations and subversive vision of modern America so appreciated on the runway.
The generation gap
Simons described the meaning behind his Calvin Klein collection as “an allegory for a meeting of old worlds and new worlds” which summarizes what’s missing on the NYFW runways. This generation gap between the glorious past and an uncertain future is echoed in Robin Givhan’s comment about the Ralph Lauren collection being “all legacy and tradition and not an ounce of fun.” So, adjusting the figures, could fun be figured in? One wonders what would happen if free agent Riccardo Tisci was drafted in to Donna Karan. What would a less cliché version of woman-friendly dressing look like at Diane von Furstenberg––could we entice Simone Rocha? How about lining up in the wings British wunderkind Matty Bovan for when Anna Sui retires her velvet and sequins? Instead of Gigi Hadid for Tommy Hilfiger. let’s try a real designer, say, Juun J, and see what he would concoct whisking together stateside staples of denim, streetwear and logos? Craig Green’s military-sharp tailoring and bold geometrics could be defibrillator paddles on the chest of the flatlining Michael Kors…Beeeeep beeeeeep, “Clear!”
New York Fashion Week, you’re fading fast. It’s time to call for emergency back up.
Photos from Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren via Catwalkpictures
Fashion editor Jackie Mallon is also an educator and author of Silk for the Feed Dogs, a novel set in the international fashion industry.
- AFP |
From classic check baseball caps to shell suits, Christopher Bailey raided the Burberry archive for his final collection at London Fashion Week on Saturday, while looking to the future with the rainbow flag.
Bailey bowed out after more than 17 years at the British fashion house with a collection drawing on street style and highlighting gay rights, lit only by spotlights in a dark, club-like venue. The once ubiquitous caps in Burberry's signature beige, black and red check pattern -- so popular in the 1990s that the brand began to suffer -- returned to the catwalk alongside 80's style shell suits made of silk. There were the classic trenches which Bailey has repeatedly reinvented as he turned Burberry into a luxury brand, as well as colourful knits layered under sheer t-shirt dresses, and maxi skirts worn with oversized hoodies and trainers. "I wanted it to be a reflection of Burberry's past, our present but also my great excitement to see what the future holds for Burberry," the 46-year-old said backstage.
Click through the slideshow to take a look at the last collection of the designer.
Bailey will formally step down on March 31 but will work with Burberry on the transition until the end of this year. His replacement has yet to be announced, but rumours put Phoebe Philo, who recently left Celine, in pole position. "The next person that has the privilege of coming into my shoes is incredibly lucky and I know they are going to do wonderful things and they will flourish," he said. A flash of rainbow colours ran through the collection, a reference to the internationally recognised gay pride flag which Bailey incorporated into the signature check or in bold designs. There was a rainbow cashmere turtleneck sweater, rainbow puffa jackets, and the show culminated with a gorgeous rainbow faux fur cape worn by model Cara Delevingne.
Bailey became the first openly gay head of a company on London's benchmark FTSE 100 index when in 2014 he was named chief executive, a job he combined for a time with his long-running position as creative director. He dedicated the final collection to LGBT groups around the world, saying before the show: "There has never been a more important time to say that in our diversity lies our strength and our creativity." Earlier, British designer Jonathan Anderson showed a playful collection to mark ten years of his J.W. Anderson label, that for the first time brought together men and women's clothes.
Fabric donut shapes grew out of sleeves at the wrist and arms, while the men wore key rings of toy donuts on their belts, marking what he described as naive optimism. He returned to a paisley pattern from his first collection for a blouse with layered soft ruffs at the neckline, while elsewhere there were loose dresses with dropped waists and fabric ties by the knees. "We've been going for 10 years, now we have to go forward in an optimistic way, to make it exciting again," said Anderson, who is also artistic director of luxury leather brand Loewe. (AFP)Photos: Burberry AW18 /Catwalkpictures & Burberry
- Kristopher Fraser |
Clamoring into the venues at New York Fashion Week, plenty of different industry types can be found including editors, buyers, stylists and social media influencers. Once simply known as bloggers, Pixlee has defined social media influencers as follows: A Social Media Influencer is a user on social media who has established credibility in a specific industry. A social media influencer has access to a large audience and can persuade others by virtue of their authenticity and reach.
In this case, the industry in question would obviously be fashion. Back in the days of New York Fashion Week at the tents at Bryant Park, editors could be heard asking “What’s a blogger?” Those were the days when seating at Fashion Week was much more limited and strictly industry personnel. Front rows were dominated by Condé Nast and Hearst editors, and a few A-list celebrities sprinkled in.
How much longer will social media culture prevail at New York Fashion Week?
Looking at the seats of Fashion Week today, however, the types of attendees have changed. While there is still a considerable amount of traditional industry personnel, most of the seats are dominated by social media influencers. These Instagram-sensation youths boast social media followings of in the four, five, and six figures. Some, like Aimee Song of Song of Style, boast followings well into the millions.
Social media influencers are expected to help bring in a certain amount of audience and also lead to sales for clothes. Like all things business, this year it has been questioned if the social media bubble will burst soon.
After the ten day festivities that were New York Fashion Week: Men’s and New York Fashion Week combined together for a ten-day affair, the answer is clearly not anytime soon.
In a recent report released by the Council of Fashion Designers of America, it was revealed that Tom Ford generates an average of 800 percent more online impact during Fashion Week than any other time of the year. This is in part due to social media influencers, such as Gigi Hadid, who walked his show. While traditional media still remains the most important source of coverage for runway shows, social media has still helped brand’s Media Impact Value.
Influencers made up 36.1 percent of New York Fashion Week’s Media Impact Value, more than any other category including traditional media and consumers. However, of all the other major Fashion Week’s, including London, Milan and Paris, New York is the only one where influencers have the highest Media Impact Value.
It can be argued that New York has sold out to the social media crowd, but if they are the ones helping sell the clothes, then you do what you have to do to see your return on investment. The cost of runway shows can be extraordinary, sometimes costing up to 1 million dollars between venues, production and paying models. If social media influencers can help recoup that investment sooner rather than later, of course they will continue to fill the seats of Fashion Week.
While this generation of Instagram influencers has grown to rule at New York Fashion Week, there’s the question of what’s next once they’ve served their time. Vincent Lane, editor-in-chief of the Garnette Report, says “[influencer culture] will change definitely, but a new wave will come.”
He’s not the only one who shares this sentiment. At the end of December, Fashionista posted an article titled “17 Fashion Influencers to Watch in 2018”, naming the new crop of “it’ kids, which included Gigi and Bella Hadid’s brother Anwar Hadid, Estee Lauder’s beauty director Violette and Proenza Schouler and Céline model Selena Forrest. The next generation is already receiving their crowns and being ushered onto their thrones.
Even notable fashion designers realize that these Instagram kids have staying power, as long as they take cues from the previous generation. “They can last a long time if they educate themselves on who comes before them,” says fashion designer Stevie Boi. “If they don’t, they will be ended by the greats.”
Stevie Boi, who boasts an Instagram following of over 71,000, also considers social media important to his business like most designers nowadays. When asked how essential he thinks social media is to being a fashion designer nowadays, he said, “It’s important [because] interacting with your supporters is important and will keep you grounded.” Before clothes even hit the stores, designers can tell what will do well based upon social media reaction.
Lane and Stevie Boi’s sentiments about a next generation coming along were also echoed by the influencers themselves. Joseph Knoop, who boasts a Pinterest following of over 3,400,000, says, “Influencers are here to stay, but like anything else the faces and names will change.” He added that, “If you think about it, influencers have been around for ages. Celebrities, athletes and rock stars have been the influencers of the past. We are the new rock stars, we are the new celebrities. People relate to us on a deeper level.”
Influencers are considered even better marketing faces than celebrities because they are seen as real people. According to Mediakix, advantages of social media marketing include the ability to target specific online audiences and influencers have a different kind of relationship with their followers. While influencer marketing is still a young industry that is still being optimized, it is clear that the social media era isn’t going anywhere anytime soon. The bubble has more expanding to do before it will burst, so we can expect more and more influencers at New York Fashion Week.
- Kristopher Fraser |
Artist Patrick Church has been continuing to make a name for himself in the fashion industry. While Church is not a designer in a typical sense, he's found an audience and customer for those who wanted his custom artwork on their clothes, shoes and accessories. Last year, Church launched his own e-commerce store on his website, and now off the heels of New York Fashion Week, his collection has arrived at Opening Ceremony.
At a presentation this week at Opening Ceremony's store on 35 Howard Street, Church decided to do a live format of him painting a single bias-cut slip dress on a live model that would be part of his new collection. As the first store in the U.S. to house his pieces, the entire experience was truly one-of-a-kind.
Multimedia artist Patrick Church debuts at Opening Ceremony with live presentation
Beginning at 6 o'clock, Church with paint materials, white dress and model in hand went to work to create one of his unique designs. He opted for this original presentation format because he wanted to do something intimate, heartfelt and simple, as though you were watching him paint alone in his bedroom. As part of the presentation he got a live opera singer to perform arias including Habanera from Carmen and O Mio Babbino Caro from Gianni Schicchi.
"The opera music heightened the experience for both me and the audience. We each shared this experience together," Church said. "It felt empowering to be so vulnerable whilst people watched my often private process of working. It was though time stood still for an hour whilst this performance was happening, which I think is a remarkable thing to do in a city as crazy as New York."
The artistic process is a difficult and technical one for artists, and when the presentation first started, Church had to get used to the idea of people watching him work. "It was completely terrifying at first," he said. "But, as that began to subside it began to feel powerful and exciting."
For the entire hour, Church became enthralled painting his signature exaggerated feminine faces on this dress, lost in translation as he was absolved with his work. "I was solely focused on the process, I tried to completely block what was going on around me and focus on the act of applying the artwork onto the garment, any distractions would have interrupted the flow of my work," he said.
Although he's found his first official retail partner, Church is more focused on staying true to his work than expanding to more retail doors. "I just want to keep pushing myself creatively, but still staying true to the essence of my work, and to have lots of fun with it," he said.
As Church continues to operate on the boundaries between art and fashion, his audience is expanding. Opening Ceremony won't be the last retailer to recognize his talent.photo credit: Ross Collab
- AFP |
The Boston Globe published a bombshell expose on Friday accusing more than two dozen professionals in the fashion industry, among them legendary photographer Patrick Demarchelier, of sexual misconduct.
The paper's Spotlight team, which in 2002 unveiled widespread sexual abuse by Catholic priests in Boston, said more than 50 models had detailed alleged misconduct they had experienced, from touching to assault. Collectively, they made credible claims against at least 25 photographers, agents, stylists, casting directors and other industry professionals, the Globe reported.
They include Demarchelier, fellow photographer Greg Kadel, who has worked for Victoria's Secret and Vogue, and stylist Karl Templer, who has worked with Coach, Zara, and Tommy Hilfiger.
The Globe said all of those accused had denied the allegations against them. Nevertheless, glossy magazine empire Conde Nast, whose company includes Vogue, had said it has stopped working for now with Demarchelier and Kadel. The Globe said one of Demarchelier's former assistants complained about relentless sexual demands, to which she eventually submitted, fearing that she would otherwise endanger her position.
Six other women accused the now 74-year-old Frenchman of unwanted advances, including thrusting a model's hands onto her genitals and grabbing another model's breasts, the Globe said. Demarchelier did not immediately respond to an AFP request to comment. He was quoted by the Globe as saying the complaints against him were untrue. "People lie and they tell stories," he said.
The sexual harassment watershed engulfing the United States has already rocked the fashion industry, with allegations of misconduct seeing photographers Terry Richardson, Mario Testino and Bruce Weber barred from collaborating with Conde Nast.
The magazine empire has issued a new "Code of Conduct" to include bans on alcohol on sets and the use of models under the age of 18 without a chaperone present. Nudity or "sexually suggestive" poses are to be agreed on beforehand. The Globe said some models wanted to expose serial predators while others wanted new legal protections and radical reform in an industry they say left them feeling exploited. (AFP)
- Sponsor |
- Consumer sentiment: China's economy grows by 6.9%
- 1,210 exhibitors from 21 countries and regions at CHIC March
- Premieres: Polish Investment and Trade Agency promotes "Fashion from
Poland", International Fur Federation presents 8 companies from 6 countries
- Business Inside: CHIC shows, seminars, CHIC TALK
- Implemented intensive visitor marketing for all retail concepts
The no.1 industry meeting of the 'profashionals' in China
More than 1,200 national and international fashion brands will be present at Asia's largest and most influential fashion fair, CHIC Shanghai, from March 14 to 16, 2018 on more than 100,000 square meters of exhibition space in the world's largest exhibition center, the National Exhibition & Convention Center, Shanghai.
China's economy is back on track for growth after seven years: 6.9% economic growth in 2017; Chinese consumers are optimistic about the future, with more millionaires in China in 2018 than in any other country according to a recent McKinsey study. By 2025, their share is expected to account for 44% of purchases in the global luxury market, which is equivalent to around EUR 131 billion. In general, an obvious willingness to spend money has returned, which is also noticeable among middle to upper income groups. Quality is more important than quantity.
Expenditure on the "key desires" in China is rising, and the supply of these goods is to be increased. Tariffs on consumer goods, including those for apparel and footwear, will be lowered to make room for international brands that can offer price levels in China comparable to their domestic prices. Important driving forces of consumption are China's millennials, who value authenticity, individuality and sustainability. Sustainability and health have become a key issue for consumers.
The desire for individual offers and collections is taken into account by CHIC: the area of young design is extended and renewed; the retail sector, which focuses on lifestyle concepts and exclusive and creative brands, the multi-brand stores and boutiques have been targeted and have become co-operation partners of CHIC.
For many areas of CHIC, there are long waiting lists, a sign of China´s positive economic development.
The entire North Entrance Hall of the fair is dedicated to fashion design. IMPULSES is fully booked and will occupy the entire area. Renowned Chinese designers such as MU by Frank, Hua Mu Shen and Tuffcan show their latest collections at CHIC. Likewise Wang Yutao, former Elle style ambassador and winner of China's most important fashion award Jin Ding, and Shi Jie with his SHI JIE & JANIQUE collection who exhibits internationally at designer forums in Paris. The IMPULSES area has been redesigned to provide the fashion clientele with a vibrant, creative fashion ambience.
In the menswear URBAN VIEW, Shandong Ruyi, one of the largest fashion companies in China, is represented at CHIC with the Saint Angelo line, as is the Semir Group with its brand Gson. Bespoke brands like Dalian LongSheng or HaiSiBao from Shandong also exhibit here. The womenswear NEW LOOK shines with well-known young brands such as Fantastic Five, 5 Secs, Famory, CAYLAR from France or Kelly Yeung. The KID'S PARADISE will present itself alongside the Chinese market leaders NONO & co from the Netherlands, tHE bear's school from Japan and the trendy children's fashion brands LIKE A SCRIBBLE, Moimoi, Kamppi from South Korea.
In the international FASHION JOURNEY sector, 248 exhibitors from 14 nations use CHIC as a presentation and service platform for their entry into the Chinese consumer market or the expansion of their business fields. The largest participation is traditionally Italy, now in March with 40 brands like Accademia, Amina Rubinacci, EBARRITO - RE-THINKING FASHION, FERRUCCIO VECCHI, Spernanzoni, SUPREMA, in cooperation with Sistema Moda Italiana and Assocalzaturifici and the Italian Trade Agency ITA, which supports the participation with accompanying promotional measures. “We are putting a lot of energy into preparing this latest rendezvous with La Moda [email protected]”, says Alberto Scaccioni, CEO of EnteModa Italia “so as to build up an offering of brands and companies characterized by the selection and quality of their products in order to offer as complete as possible a panorama of the style expressed by Italian fashion. In addition, thanks to the contribution of Agenzia ICE, we will be realizing an even more strategic presentation of the Italian area: at the center of the exhibition route and in the heart of the international pavilion, featuring an elegant and functional layout to provide a united and coherent image of the Italian lifestyle. La Moda [email protected] is confirmed as the ideal business platform on the Asian fair scene, an essential rendezvous for bringing quality Italian collections to the attention of key sector buyers and members of the trade, and a unique opportunity for all the small- and medium sized Italian companies that wish to grasp the extraordinary opportunities offered by the Chinese market".
Diversity distinguishes the French fashion brands, which are gathered in the pavilion Paris Forever with clothing, accessories, shoes and bags, including brands like Georgio & Mario, Urbahia, Lener Cordier etc. German companies present themselves under the umbrella of MADE IN GERMANY as part of the foreign trade fair program of the Federal Ministry for Economic Affairs and Energy, conducted by Messe Düsseldorf. The offer ranges from clothing, lingerie, to bags, accessories and shoes. Among others participating for the first time are the exclusive shirt brand IGN.Joseph or Escora from the lingerie area.
The Polish Investment and Trade Agency is for the first time with a country presentation to promote "Fashion from Poland" in China and uses CHIC´s wide-spread network inside the Chinese trade.
South Korea, China Hong Kong, China Taiwan, and Peru are represented with their own group holdings.
Individual exhibitors come from Brazil, Denmark, France, China Hong Kong, India, Japan, Korea, Sweden, and the UK.
Famous Asian streetwear labels dominate the show-in-show CHIC YOUNG BLOOD, led by Korea with 20 brands like Soup, Romistory and ballop. Among others from China JPE and ILITI will not miss the show.
There are waiting lists for the HERITAGE area, the leather and fur area in Hall 1. In addition to the national brands, the International Fur Federation IFF presents itself for the first time with Manakas from Germany; a Greek group with i.a. Mantziaris Abee, Bourtsos Bros S.A., Jonevon Furs; Saga Furs from Finland, North American Fur Auctions (NAFA) from Canada, Langiotti from the USA, as well as Shuohao Furrier from China.
In its group participation organized by the Istanbul Leather Products Exporters´ Association (IDMIB), Turkey offers 10 brands from the leather fashion sector a platform at CHIC.
The SECRET STARS section, the accessories area in Hall 4 with more than 100 brands, and the SHANGAI BAG show with bags and shoes in Hall 4, were booked up early. For the first time, the German brand DNBO joins CHIC with its water-resistant outdoor bags.
Shows, seminars and service offer
The CHIC shows provide information about current fashion trends in China and are a magnet for visitors, with more than 15 Chinese and international brands taking the stage to show at Asia's leading fashion and lifestyle fair.
As part of the CHIC TALK, market experts and trend analysts will talk about current developments in the fashion business in China, both for offline and online business. WGSN reports on the trends for Autumn / Winter 2018/19, the topic of ecological fashion is taken up by the First China International Healthy T-Shirt Summit.
Enhanced service measures by CHIC
CHIC places a special focus on visitor marketing. In the run-up to the trade fair, match-makings will be carried out especially focused on overseas exhibitors, and a selected clientele of almost 50,000 contacts will receive detailed information about the international brands at CHIC; the CHIC App enables visitors to find out about the offer at the fair in a targeted manner; the CHIC homepage offers visitors the opportunity to arrange appointments with the manufacturers at the trade fair.
The traditional overseas exhibitors´ dinner will give further insights into the market with agents of international brands that are established in China sharing their experience.
Nationwide visitor round-table meetings, shoppers' seminars and conferences for fashion agencies in China's metropolises were conducted by CHIC in advance. Online retailers such as Yan Xuan, that focuses on high quality overseas brands, well-known multi-brand shops such as Water Stone, The Fashion Door, Dong Liang, HengShanHeJi, or QingYuTian are already pre-registered as visitors of CHIC March, just like further fashion chains with up to 300 retail stores. The multi-brand store concept is experiencing rapid growth in China.
A recent study by TUDOO, one of the best-known Chinese showroom operators for international fashion labels, shows that there has been an enormous increase from 100 multi-brand stores in 2013 to 5,000 in 2017. The growth is unrestrained and already extends from the metropolises of the East coast to megacities like Chongqing or Chengdu. A mix of international and national brands is important, the customer is looking for a diversified offer, the demand for international fashion is one third higher than that for domestic brands. Lifestyle labels are in demand, in 2017 the proportion of designer labels, streetwear and sports brands increased by 36%, youth is not a status, but lifestyle, the fashion mix and match is extremely sought after. In China's new retail era, boutiques offer customers an exclusive shopping experience, individual brands and products.
The VIP Buyers Lounge in the Area FASHION JOURNEY is the meeting point for exhibitors and visitors in a relaxed atmosphere.
See you at CHIC March, Shanghai, March 14-16, 2018!
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