- Don-Alvin Adegeest |
Stella McCartney's sustainability commitments will now see the brand produce one of its icon bags using a regenerated yarn.
The company confirmed its Falabella Go bag will be made using a fabric yarn called Econyl which is synthesized from ocean waste.
McCartney confirmed earlier this year she would use sustainable viscose, regenerated cashmere and other recycled materials in her collections whenever feasible. The yarn is produced by Aquafil, a company that aims to prove luxury brands can use high end alternatives without forsaking quality or style.
Aquafil chief executive officer Giulio Bonazzi said the Econyl partnership with McCartney "represents the future of fashion. It proves that when sustainable ingredients are of the highest quality, they will be adopted by brands from sportswear to luxury. When sustainability is treated with the same reverence as performance and quality, we see beautiful and impactful collections take the stage.”
Bonazzi said every 10,000 tons of Econyl produced saves 70 thousand barrels of crude oil by avoiding extraction. Aquafil’s Econyl regeneration system diverts waste from landfills and oceans through the recovery of abandoned fishing nets and other discarded nylon waste. The waste is reborn through Aquafil’s regeneration system, which is an example of the circular economy. He said it offers the same quality and performance as traditional nylon, but with the ability to be regenerated an infinite number of times.
“Fashion is an industry that makes a significant impact on the planet. It’s not just cool clothes and trends,” McCartney stated last year.
Photo credit: Stella McCartney Falabella Go bag, source StellaMcCartney.com
- Kristopher Fraser |
Fendi has teamed up with K-pop star Tae Yang for a capsule collection simply titled "Fendi for TaeYang."
Designer Silvia Ventura Fendi, along with the brand's men's studio, came together with the South Korean musician to create a line of t-shirts, jackets, hoodies and accessories using the brand's fall collection as the base for inspiration.
The collection features messages such as "Faith," "Grace," "Saved" and "Passion sprawled across black shearling jackets and black oversized t-shirts. Other motifs include white and daisy flower details.
Accessories featured in the collection include key charms, pouches, backpacks and sneakers.
Pouches are available in both red and black. Backpacks are offered in two styles, including shearling and calfskin.
The rubber keychains and sneakers feature the artists slogan.
The Fendi for Tae Yang collection will debut in Hong Kong on July 27. Prices for the collection range from 400 euros to 8500 euros. Starting in July, the collection will be available for pre-order.
- Danielle Wightman-Stone |
Footballer Cristiano Ronaldo is continuing to extend his fashion label CR7 with the launch of CR7 Denim, a collection of shorts and jeans for men.
The collection, which will launch by the end of the month, will include staple fashion pieces of jeans and shorts for men, with jackets and shirts to follow later in the year, all of which have been inspired by the footballer’s ‘way of life’, and have been crafted using the latest stretch technology, focusing on comfort and movability.
“I didn't want it to be like any other denim line on the market," said Ronaldo of the line. "I've always loved the look of denim, but it frustrated me how heavy and uncomfortable it can become when you're constantly on the move as an active person.”
There are a number of different fits: R is the modern straight fit with a taper; C is the slim straight fit; T sits low on the waist with a slight drop crotch, and S is the classic skinny. They also come in a variety of washes. Prices range from 79 euros to 129 euros for the jeans, while the shorts are 59 euros.
Ronaldo added: "I don't take myself too seriously, but I take what I do very seriously. This collection is for more than just my fans. It's for anyone who shares my values, who lives a limitless life and loves denim. That's why it not only looks the way denim should look, it's made to be lived in."
The International footballer started his fashion label as an underwear brand, before later adding a range of premium shirts designed in partnership with New York-based designer Richard Chai, the collection also includes footwear.
Images: courtesy of CR7
- Cynthia Ijelman |
Carry Somers, the founder of Fashion Revolution, visited Uruguay and Argentina earlier this month. During her visit, she hosted a number of lectures and spent her time learning a bit more about the fashion industry in these countries. FashionUnited was given the chance to attend one of her presentations and talk to her about her work at the non-profit organization (NGO) whose aim is to change and improve fashion around the world.
#WhoMadeMyClothes, much more than a question
At Fashion Revolution we believe that transparency is the first step in transforming the fashion industry", said Somers. Supply chains are large and complex. Often, large brands do not own the factories where their clothing is made and this makes it difficult to see what working conditions are like. Some firms may even negotiate with several factories or hire a supplier who, in turn, hires other companies. This is why the subject of transparency appears as a great challenge and Somers explained it: "For Fashion Revolution, transparency means public disclosure of brand policies, procedures, goals and commitments. It also implies performance and actual impact on workers, communities and the environment".
The past year saw an increase in the number of brands contacting their clients and starting to show a bit more about what happens behind the scenes. "Answering the question #whomademyclothes requires transparency, which implies honesty, openness, communication and public accountability. This information must be made available to consumers to inform and educate them. In 2017, during the Fashion Revolution week, global events took place in over 90 countries and 533 people commented on #whomademyclothes on the social networks", she said.
Brand transparency index
In April this year, the NGO published a report showing rankings from the transparency index of the 100 most popular fashion brands in the world "Based on this index, our aim is to show how much or little consumers can learn about what they buy", said Somers.
Inclusion of brands in the index was not voluntary, although they were given the chance to complete the questionnaire with their own information. Out of 100 companies, only 49 completed questionnaires were received.
Participating brands were selected for their annual turnover and those wishing to participate voluntarily were also considered. Those representing different market segments of the fashion industry around the world were also chosen (urban, luxury, sports, footwear, accessories, etc.).
Some conclusions reached from the report:
"Whilst we can see that brands are starting to focus more on their social endeavours, which is an asset, there is still a lot of information on fashion industry practices that remains undisclosed. Last year, only 12 percent of leading brands published their lists of suppliers. This year, this figure is around 32 percent. The trend is changing and we are moving towards a new era but there is still a long path to tread", said Somers.
A few projects
The NGO presented a series of tutorials "Haulternative" given by influencers where they offer keys to transform items of clothing into new ones. "We are encouraging people to think differently about their relationship with clothes. Large-scale production and consumption is a cause for concern, considering its environmental impact. The average person buys over 60 percent of their clothes and only uses them half the time they did 15 years ago", said Somers.
Another initiative is The Garment Worker Diaries, a research project on the life of workers in clothes-making industry in Bangladesh, Cambodia and India. For further information: A Fashion Revolution project follows up on the life of textile workers.
- Vivian Hendriksz |
London - BoohooMan has launched its latest capsule collection, which sees the fast-fashion brand teaming up with international rapper Tyga.
The Manchester-based fashion label worked closely with the artist to create a capsule collection of 30 pieces, which includes ready to wear items and accessories. The collection is inspired by Tyga' lavish and bold style and features elements from urban, hip hop and grim cultures.
"This is a monumental moment for BoohooMan and having a talent like Tyga on board aids the brand’s move into global territories," said Boohoo in a statement. "His laid back, relaxed persona gives the shoot a fresh, urban vibe and embodies BoohooMan’s style down to a T."
The BoohooMan x Tyga Autumn/Winter 2017 collection also sees a select offering of limited edition products. The price point for the collection ranges from 4 pounds to 60 pounds. The capsule collection officially launched on www.boohooman.com on June 21, 2017.
Photo: courtesy of BoohooMan
- AFP |
Anti-fur protesters stormed on stage with Michael Kors in New York on Wednesday, briefly disrupting a ticketed event at which the US fashion mogul discussed his career, dressing Melania Trump and shutting stores.
"Michael Kors has blood on his hands," chanted the more than dozen protesters who marched through a darkened auditorium at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, shortly before security ushered Kors out. An audio recording of an animal squealing, seemingly in pain signaled the start of the four-minute protest about 13 minutes into the conversation with Kors, which was being streamed on Facebook.
"Animal fur is not in fashion," "animal fur is not compassion," chanted the protesters, at least two of whom jumped on stage. "Shame on all of you for supporting this industry," yelled one man as the stunned audience sat looking bemused and museum staff did what they could to escort protesters out as quickly as possible.
"Stay in your seats. We're going to try and resolve this," came the announcement over the loudspeaker, greeted by cheers and applause. Once the protest was over, Kors received a standing ovation after returning to the stage with former CNN journalist Alina Cho, who was conducting the interview.
"You know what, the show goes on," said Kors. Known for his laid-back, luxurious, wearable and quintessentially American silhouette, Kors started his label in 1981 and has dressed Hollywood actresses, music superstars and first ladies.
Among them is Melania Trump, who wore a tailored Michael Kors dress to greet Panama's president and first lady on Monday. While some prominent designers have refused to dress her in opposition to her husband's politics, Kors said the Slovenian-born former model had attended his runway shows in the past.
"I don't think it's a political thing," he said. "She's been a client for so long," he said. "She looks great," he said simply as a picture of Trump flashed up on the screen. But while Kors sits atop a global handbag and apparel empire, the company has said it will close 100 to 125 stores, joining a growing list of retailers who are shutting brick-and-mortar outlets as e-commerce grabs more market share.
On May 31, the company released fourth quarter results showing that total revenue had slumped 11.2 percent to 1.06 billion USD. Asked about retail headwinds, Kors said "nothing" could ever compete with the excitement of buying and seeing clothes in person, no matter how often a modern buyer had seen them online.
"The reality now is sometimes it's really thinking about how all of this works together, how do you shop online, on your phone, at your laptop, in the store, how does that all connect?" A household name in the United States, Kors said he learned about "extravagance" and "indulgence" from French women in Paris while working as creative director for Celine from 1998-2004.
Photo: Courtesy of HSI
- Sara Ehlers |
INTERVIEWKurtis Paul, born out of the back streets of Manchester in the summer of 2015, is aiming to bring a sophisticated vibe to menswear and lifestyle fashion. The brand, coming from a love of travel, recently has come out with a Canvas Collection aimed towards the modern menswear market. FashionUnited talked with the brand's founders, Kurtis and Lloyd Rayner, about the Kurtis Paul brand and the ever-changing retail climate of menswear.
Firstly, tell us a little about the brand's origin and its founders.
The brand was established in 2015 by two brothers from Manchester who felt the frustrations of the current luggage market. Being avid travellers we had tried and tested a wide spectrum of the market and found there were generally two classes; the high street where low quality had almost become accepted and the designer brands where most of the costs were nested in the brand name and not necessarily the product. Kurtis Paul challenges this, it is our driving force to create beautiful products at a reasonable price without a compromise on quality. As an example, our recent Canvas Collection is crafted from a super thick 20oz canvas fabric. The market generally uses a fabric between 13-18oz. We chose this material to ensure the collection has a durable longevity and has a build quality we are happy to put our names to.
How would you describe the Kurtis Paul brand?
Representing the modern gentleman, Kurtis Paul is a luxury British fashion brand specialising in high quality luggage and accessories. It is our intent to re-define the fashion of luggage and through the use of carefully selected materials we have created three beautiful luggage and accessory collections.
What is the current price range for Kurtis Paul and where is it available?
We believe that a good quality product should not be overpriced and our products range from 40 to 280 pounds.
What makes Kurtis Paul stand out from other bespoke and menswear brands?
[We aren't] ‘just another brand’, we are driven by the desire to fulfil a purpose. For us that purpose is to craft beautifully designed products using materials that will last. We see ourselves as answering the luggage requirements of a demographic we refer to as ‘The Modern Gentleman’ and through that requirement we ensure that ever product has a specific destiny. When designing [our bags] we thought thoroughly about what it would be used. [For the Columbus] bag made for exploring, we decided to remove the clunky side pockets whilst extenuating the one on the front. It is perfectly sized for storing a map, book or small tablet. Understanding that travellers can be a target to thieves we chose to add an extra level of security, to get access to the central hold the owner must open the top flap and open a drawstring compartment.
In which cities/markets are you hoping to expand to with Kurtis Paul?
We intend on continuing our expansion worldwide. Naturally, dominating the UK market is a must for us, being British this is more of a personal challenge than a business goal. In conjunction to this we would love to continue in the US market. Fashion within the major US cities is ahead of many others and so it makes it the perfect place for a product such as ours.
How would you describe your typical customer?
We refer to our typical customer as 'The Modern Gentleman'. As an overview this man is someone who holds themselves in high regards and has a determination to become the best version of himself. He is motivated and committed to living life to the fullest. The modern gentleman takes pride in the way he presents himself, always wanting to be on form he ensures his fitness is maintained. He has a very busy schedule and knows that a healthy body is required to keep his energy levels at their optimum levels.
What would you say are the most current trends in menswear right now?
In my opinion menswear in the UK is starting to transition towards the higher quality. In the last 7 years we have seen a surge of ‘on time wear’ fashion but as people become more aware of the impact they are having on the society I see consumers spending more money on less items.
How has your e-commerce business grown since Kurtis Paul started?
We have seen great increases in e-commerce and this growth doesn’t seem set to slow down. Our team believes that for true growth you much create a precise and easy to articulate vision. We have found that the more we share our vision the more e-commerce works for us.
From your website, there currently see any existing retail stores. Are you planning to open any soon? Why or why not?
We don’t see the need for a retail outlet, consumer behaviour is changing and people are being more familiar with online retail. This shift is due to a number of advancements, for example an increase in payment security, speed of web technologies and an acceptance from retailers that they must compensate for the lack of ‘touch and feel’. Our lack of desire for a retail store is also caused due to our determination to not ‘pad’ our product ranges. We don’t see a need to justify our existence with massive product lines, Kurtis Paul prefers much more to design with specific intent and create products that have a clear purpose.
Do you think it's necessary to open a brick-and-mortar store, with retail's declining climate?
Kurtis Paul sees a culture shift whereby brands must find a way to integrate themselves into the daily lives of its consumers. 21st century retail is less about specific trips to the nearby retail park and more about finding ways to answer questions as speedily as possible.
What trends do you see on the business side of e-commerce?
E-commerce is going to see a shift to where content is king, businesses will be increasingly called upon to answer the day to day problems of the customer and they must win the right before they can actively promote their products.
Photo Source: Kurtis Paul
- AFP |
Balenciaga brought the refugee look to Paris men's catwalks Wednesday with a collection which seemed to evoke Europe's migrant crisis and the dreams of thousands seeking a new life there. Designer Demna Gvasalia -- a child refugee himself who fled to Germany from war-torn Georgia in 1993 -- has made his name selling the clothes of the poor to the rich.
The enfant terrible of the Paris scene sent out more than 60 models in various charity shop looks for the luxury brand, with plastic shopping bags bearing the legend "Europe Europe Europe" remade in slick soft leather. Some models carried children and expensive Balenciaga luggage bags with "The Power of Dreams" written on a square of cloth stitched to their hoodies.
Others wore lifevest-like squares with "Europe" written on them, while still more sported plasticated jackets and ponchos emblazoned with "Europa! Quality. Experience. Professionalism." However, Gvasalia, whose is known for his ironic reclaiming of unfashionable or "naff" 1980s looks, made no reference to the refugee crisis as a source of inspiration.
Doting young dad
Instead he presented his spring summer men's collection for 2018 as one about "young dads in the park with their kids at the weekend." Indeed he chose a number of fathers from the Swiss banking capital of Zurich -- to where he is moving his studio -- to model with their children in his al fresco show in the Bois de Boulogne park on the edge of the French capital.
"As Balenciaga man... bypasses fashion on the way... to the dry-cleaner and a trip to the off-licence," he wrote in his notes to the show, "his clothes seem to have picked up a laminated Europa sign." Gvasalia's tongue-in-cheek poverty chic has made his Vetements label one of the hottest in fashion, and earlier this year he raised eyebrows with 1,900-euro (2,100 USD) Balenciaga bags that bore a remarkable resemblance to cheap IKEA and laundry sacks.
Having already made a DHL courier's T-shirt an object of desire, this time Gvasalia applied himself to cheesy Hawaiian sunset prints, which he used on two shirts. But his big innovation was his take on detachable hiking trousers -- not normally a garment that makes the catwalk. With "Twin Peaks" star Kyle MacLaclan among the audience, he debuted his zippable three-piece trousers, the first of which had a green leather top, camel cotton thighs and denim bottoms.
Bowie meets Sherlock Holmes
He also trumpeted his latest sartorial invention -- the "built-in grandad slouch" -- which he has worked into to his oversized jackets with the aid of weights in the sleeves and linings, while his parkas have been given extra charity shop "worn-in droop".
Japanese designer Hiromichi Ochiai had earlier appeared in a kilt to receive the applause for his Facetasm show which had combined recut tailcoats with shorts, turned-up jeans and baseball socks. It looked as if the designer had taken the scissors to the contents of the wardrobes of a Scottish stately home, with spotty dressing gowns and lots of tartan and corduroy.
He also had two older grey-haired models among his co-ed show, that mixed clothes for men and women. Belgium's Walter Van Beirendonck mined a similar mismatch in his show that was very much Sherlock Holmes meets David Bowie.
Colourful and shiny Ziggy Stardust bodysuits were set against Prince of Wales check jackets and trousers with all his models wearing glam rock wigs. (AFP)
Photos: Balenciaga SS18, Catwalkpictures
- Kristopher Fraser |
In the era of athleisure even iconic luxury brands are getting on board. Valentino's Pierpaolo Piccioli is going after the sporty guy this season, as he's set to debut his next menswear collection for the brand today at Paris Fashion Week Men's.
The brand will also be debuting the new Valentino logo, VLTN, which Piccioli mulled over for quite some time. Eventually, he created a logo that appealed to both himself and his team of designers. Essentially, it is a shortening of the brand name with the original font.
The goal was to make the overall aesthetic more contemporary. Like all luxury brands, Valentino is attempting to court the millennial customer. This season, they've gone more street.
Valentino goes street for menswear collection
"I wanted to be very precise about this idea of street. I think there's a dignity in the streets and in sports," Picciolo said to WWD. "These pieces are really strong and of the moment. They express the culture of the moment and even the culture of the moment of the brand: couture meets street."
Valentino has become very popular among street style culture thanks to their rockstud shoes, bags and accessories.
Now they are capitalizing on that momentum to take the brand into the next era.
Since the departure of Maria Grazia Chiuri, now creative director of Dior, Piccioli has been tasked with continuing to elevate Valentino's offerings and grow their customer base.
In the millennial market, Valentino faces tough competition from brands like Saint Laurent, who count millennials as 70 percent of their customer base.
As Piccioli prepares to debut his revamped menswear today, the question will be how well can he compete?photo: via Valentino Facebook page
- Vivian Hendriksz |
London - Luxury online retail giant, Yoox Net-a-Porter Group (YNAP) has committed to ending the sale of angora across all its platforms. The move comes not long after YNAP announced it had implemented a fur-free policy across all its multi-brand online stores, essentially banning all items and products made from real fur.
YNAP decision to end all sales of angora products has been confirmed by People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA), who were the first to expose the systematic animal abuse and cruelty linked to the Chinese angora industry. "Regardless of whether fur or angora was obtained by gassing, electrocuting, bludgeoning or by being ripped from a terrified, conscious animal, it's always a product of extreme cruelty – which most stylish women and designers have turned their backs on as demand for sustainable vegan fashion has soared," comments PETA Director of International Programmes Mimi Bekhechi.
"By introducing a ban on angora in line with its ban on fur, Yoox Net-a-Porter Group is securing its place as the premier luxury fashion destination – now and into the future." Since PETA first released its undercover angora expose was released back in late 2013, an increasing number of high-end designers such as Calvin Klein, Roland Mouret, and Stella McCartney have banned angora as well as high street retailers such as H&M, Benetton and Zara. The Chinese angora industry, which previously supplied 90 percent of the world's angora, reported an 85 percent decrease the year following the expose release, with the decline remaining consistent, according to PETA.